Hub vs lug centric

My car isn't a a big corner carver but I figured this crowd would know the best.

I have reproduction magnum 500's on my 67' Belvedere. The wheels where balanced with a lug centric set up (the tire shop claims) I have a vibration that starts about 60mph and gets worse with speed that I think is wheel related as only the steering wheel really shakes. As magnums really have no hub that makes contact on the wheel I can't even try hub centric adapters.

Do you find that hub centric wheels make a big difference in this regard?

Lug centric is fine as long as you step-torque and tighten them down before the wheel is on the ground.

I'll run mine down with the tire off of the ground with a light drill-driver. Step them all at ~30ft-lb in a star pattern. Then final torque them with the wheel on the ground.

Since you're chasing a vibration, you might want to read this thread:

https://board.moparts.org/ubbthread...at-speed-possible-cause.html#Post2825221

Mike.

Earlier this year, one of my new Coker repro Magnums turned out to be built incorrectly.
It balanced, but tire shop didn't catch it.
Wiggle in steering wheel told me it was a front wheel.
I pulled the fronts & took them back to check for lateral runout.
It was definitely out of spec, was replaced under Coker's warranty, and all is well now.
Specialty & Wheel Vintiques are owned by Coker, BTW.

Make sure the wheels are in spec for roundness. Check the runout on the flange before you get too frustrated. Out of round wheels and tires will balance but the condition creates a vibration from the difference in road force.

Thanks for the help. I read through the thread, I still think mine is wheel/tire related as the vibration is noticed really only in the steering wheel. Car see's regular summer use and only sits for the winter.

Tires where new along with the wheels when they went on but I will check the wheels for run out this winter. If it looks ok I'll see about getting them rebalanced as well.

I might also be looking for an excuse to change the wheels again too.

Try to find a shop that has a newer balancer that measures road force variation (RFV). These can measure the effects of wheel and tire out of round and tell the technician the best position to mount the tire with respect to the wheel. Again, this is different than balance. A wheel and tire can be perfectly balanced but shake like crazy due to road force variation. When new vehicles are built at the factory the wheels and tires are marked by their respective manufacturers with the low spots so when they are assembled at the plant they line them up high to low to minimize the road force variation. This isn't as exact as measuring the road force variation on a balancer but is much quicker and generally works unless the vehicle is very sensitive to RFV.

I got custom hubcentric wheels spacers - which is an option if you go down that route - I have 3/4" spacers all around for my enkei rpf1 wheels which have a +15 offset