67 Coronet, Rear Springs, Sway Bars and Shocks.

Gentlemen,

I am in the process of trying to upgrade my 67 Coronet from Street/Strip to a weekend fun toy that can go around a corner or two without dragging the door handles.

So far swapped the big block for an aluminum headed 408 small block, bought 1.03 torsion bars, adjustable strut rods, 16 to 1 manual steering box.

The car already had an 11-inch power disc brake kit on it.

So now my focus is on Wheels and Tires, Rear Springs, Sway Bars, and Shocks.

I like the look of the 17 inch VN501, but I see that there are better tire choices in an 18 wheel aesthetically I like a little less wheel and little more sidewall.

Was thinking a 265 on 17x8 with 4.5bs all the way around if I can fit it.

1 and 3/8 Front sway bar and a 1 inch rear.

Shocks are rear springs I am little a little fuzzier on, I have never set a car up to do anything other than going fast in a straight line.

Only "road racing" was with Crown Vics and Chargers as part of my job.

Any advice or reference material would be greatly appreciated even if it is to tell me I am on the wrong track (no pun intended)

Not looking for a 9/10 track car, but a weekend fun machine.

Thank you in advance for any replies.

Buy Andy Fs "B body performance upgrades" book.

call firm feel and order some springs from them maybe???

This. Also ditch the manual box for power steering and get some fast ratio pitman/idler arms. Stiffen up that chasis!

If you haven't already, tie the frame with connectors. That alone will make night/day difference in how the car handles.

I don't know how Florida roads are down there, but I would advise against 18" wheels. I did all the upgrades to my car (ties, springs, sway bars, stiff steering box, etc) and saved the tires for last. Drove around for a season on 15" Radial T/A tires that were 255 in the back and 235 in the front. The ride was modern and comfortable. The following season I went 18" specifically so I could run big brakes and while cornering improved even more the ride went to [censored]. I've bent two rims already and will probably need to have a few fillings put back in. If I had it to do over again 17" is absolute biggest I would go.

I'd use a 235/55-17 tire on 17x8 rims. 265 seems way to big for a 8 inch rim. You need to stay in the middle of the mfg recommendation for handling.

You'll probably need bigger brakes if you get serious about going around corners but you can solve that one down the road.

I wouldn't worry about the rear springs that much. You can get replacement Hemi springs from most any place and they should be fine. I'd buy them from the closest vendor to reduce shipping. Firm Feel is all the way across the country from you.

Shocks are very important once you put 17 inch tires on there with big torsion bars and big anti sway bar. If you use cheap shocks the ride will beat you to death. I highly recommend Koni shocks but the shocks that Hotchkis sells might be okay also. I've never tried them.

Koni front shocks bolt right on but the rears aren't designed correctly. I have rear shock plates that work with the Koni shocks if you decide to go that way.

Mark, you might try switching to a really high quality shock before you change wheels and tires. My Coronet rode like an empty dump truck with cheap shocks on it. Once I figured out how to get the Koni shocks to fit on my car the ride improved 200%. I used to wince when I saw a bump coming but now the car just floats over it with a small thump. It is a $500 bill for the good shocks but it sure feels better than getting whacked over the head by each bump in the road.

That 16:1 manual box is going to be a real chore unless your arms are the size of tree trunks. Try it and see how you like it but just be prepared for some bear wrassling if you ever try to parallel park the car!

I like all your choices.

I would not go smaller on tire, but you didn't mention aspect, and that and TP will effect ride over a wide range.

I would not add the mentioned Rear swaybar at this time.

IMO, a rear swaybar is best sized for solving other less favorable choices one has already made, and installed. There is no downside, to making it your last modification, based on first road testing everything else as a package.

FG hood, and rear mounted battery wasn't mentioned, but would fit with your plan I would think.

Gentleman,

Thanks for the advice so far. As for shocks yes I plan on buying quality as shocks can make or break a suspension.

Tubular A-arms I am not sold on the idea that they are necessary for the level of performance that I am looking to achieve, so far the plan to brace the lowers as they seem to take the majority of stress in a corner, and to use the moog offset upper control arm bushings for more caster.

I do plan on installing subframe connectors as I do with any uni-body performance car.

I am of the opinion of the wheels I have seen on cars like mine that 17s are as large as I want to go from an aesthetic point of view.

Perhaps to get the contact patch I am looking for I would need 17x9s but I am worried there about backspacing and fitment. Would like to see a 67 coronet running 17x9s with say a 255/45/17 or perhaps a 55 for a little more sidewall.

Saving the rear sway bar for last makes sense, sort of, I prefer my cars to have a manageable throttle induced oversteer if that makes any sense.

My work vehicle for years was a crown vic P71, the car would understeer if pushed hard but I could always compensate by adding more throttle to plant the rear and if I got too happy with the loud pedal the car was very forgiving and I could hang the rear out in a very controlled manner.

Those cars are kinda my benchmark.

In m y opinion, for rim/tire size, considering your fenders/wheel openings on the '67 could be a bit small, I'd still favor sticking with 15" rims, good side wall for road bump absorption/ride quality, as well as filling in the wheel openings. A decent 245-60-15 tire (your brand choice) front and rear should be satisfying, using 7" or preferably 8" rims (or wider if you can get the correct centering offset)... this is very critical! For what you're intending, the 17" rims/tires are going to give you unfavorable appearance as your choice to fit will be visibly small within the wheel well. I "cruise" with 15x8 rims, 255-60 front, 275-60 rear... with a very stiff competition autocross suspension, and the ride is just fine. Then, for actual "competition" events, I always swap to short sidewall tires with a larger rim diameter.

Stiffen the suspension (larger TBs, I suggest about 1.12, as anything less and you'll only wonder why you didn't go a little larger). Stiffer leafs and avoid high compressed arch. 2x adjustable shocks will allow you to really fine tune the ride.

IF you're going the route of offset upper control arm bushings, you may as well bite the bullet and get some aftermarket upper control arms that already have the extra caster/camber built in. "Adjustable" UCAs will give you the most tuning, but they are expensive, perhaps beyond what you want.

As you mentioned manual steering, unless you're avoiding the desire for quick maneuvering, make the swap to power steering, and also get a smaller steering wheel... and a better drivers seat that has high side bolster (try different seats until you find a good fitting one for you... like shoes, etc).

Good luck and Mo Power to ya!

"I prefer my cars to have a manageable throttle induced oversteer if that makes any sense."

There is, IMO, no greater nirvana in car handling then to use the right foot gently to rotate one's perfectly balanced car in a turn.