11.75" vs 12.19" Disc Kit

Does anybody have a comparison of the 11.75" Dr. Diff disc brake kit versus the Wilwood Dynalite 12.19" kit? I already have the Dr. Diff kit that I bought a while back, but haven't used. Is the Wilwood an upgrade worth messing with or just stick with what I have?

Interested in this, no tech but a bump for you.

No point in changing to that Wilwood kit from the factory 11.75 setup. If you want bigger better brakes then move up to a 13 x 1.25 kit with Brembo or Baer calipers. You'll notice a big difference between the factory 11.75 x 1 brakes and a 13 x 1.250 setup.

Getting to basics, brakes stop your wheels, tires stop your car.

They are 4% bigger and can be had in two piece rotor/hub assy at 1.25" widths, so slightly better heat sink. Two piece design means they are easily replaced if you are brutalizing them. Can you feel a 4% change and is that worth the $$ spent?

They will allow you to retain 15" wheels if that is important.

Not worth it in my opinion. If your setup could actually use the slight additional fade resistance, then you would benefit from a true big brake kit like the 13+" ones available, and that would be worth it. I'm saving for a Baer or Brembo type setup. Buy once and cry once. I've no direct experience with Wilwood but have heard a lot of non-complementary things about the performance of their front brake kits.

My biggest complaint with my Wilwoods is the pad knockback, unless Baer or Brembo have floating calipers, I can't see them avoiding that issue.

The Wilwood hub does use remarkably small outer front wheel bearings, which I imagine only lends itself to excessive compliance.

Goody...pad knock-back is from loose wheel bearings...sometimes you guys should listen to those of us like me who ran those same brakes on the road course at 130+ mph with lots of track mileage/time. The orig way to set up wheel bearings in not for going 130 mph. OK??? More than 1 car with the same set up btw.

The proper modern adjustment procedure is

While spinning rotor CW tighten wheel bearing nut to 20 fl lbs.
Loosen nut
While spinning rotor CW tighten wheel bearing nut to 90 to 120 INCH pounds with a BEAM torque wrench.

I am not here to argue. I know what works so why don't you humor me and try it? If you have pad knock-back after that you have something else wrong and/or the torque setting needs to be a bit more. I never ran small outer wheel bearings.

As far the Op and his size matters...minimal difference in the size...ducted air on the brakes matters, for the street with no track time the 11.75 is more than adequate. Choose the correct brake material.

I can't see why there should be any knockback issue with a good quality caliper. I don't use Wilwood stuff on anything I build since they are the low quality brake vendor. I usually use Brembo or Baer components and they work fine. Brembo is the OEM supplier for almost all high performance cars so they know how to build stuff that works.

The Doctor Diff 13" Mustang Cobra brake kit is great bang for the buck. Those+Hydroboost and you have a ton of brake output and great modulation

I'm wanting to stick with 15" wheels.

Glad to hear that, that setup is awesome on my 01 Bullitt, and I've been tempted, love the look of my cop wheels though.

Does anyone know if on the Willwood setup if the hub for the 12.1" setup will work with their 13 or 14" rotors?

If I could swap out the rotors and caliper brackets when I end up having to go to bigger wheels, that would be a huge selling point for me.

Call Magnum Force and see what they say they are in the know.

You mean that guy that looks like a Roadie for KISS or the Scorpions ??

What options are there if you want to keep the 14" rims.

LOL I never meet the guy. I just talked with them years ago when I sent them My spindles for my 57 DeSoto 2dr. Firesweep. They built brackets for the spindles and put a kit together for me. They tried to sell them after that but I don't think that they sold well. At the time if it cost more than 2 nickles the the forwardlook guys didn't want it.

Stock 73+ Brakes + Hydroboost. I doubt you'll be able to increase the output much over that. Tires will become a giant issue for braking since 14" performance tires don't exist as far as I know. BFG Radial T/A's are just garbage. Not sure why anyone needs a mud/snow radial on a cars that rarely get driven in the rain

yeah, no performance tires in 14" diameters

https://www.tirerack.com/tires/sizes/results.jsp?diameter=14

Lots of options from extreme high performance summer tires to dedicated race/autocross tires. All in 14" diameters

Nobody is putting a sub 24" tall tire on a mopar muscle car. I didn't think we were talking about Neons but okay... Any size larger than that you can get a Radial T/A or a Cooper Cobra, neither of which are anything but 1980s tire designs that are still manufactured.

Optimum wheel size is either 17" or 18" for most of our cars for cornering performance, and you can get some really amazing tires, and fit great brakes under it.

Nobody?

You sure got that word stuck in your head.

You'd also be wrong about the tire diameters as well. Try fitting taller than 24" tires on an early A body without sheet metal mods.

https://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/threads/help-with-64-dart-gt-tire-size.96214/

A bunch of people running 205/70-14's on Early A's (okay didn't look up a 60 valiant or anything) which are 25.4" tall. Looks pretty easy. Of course you can do what you want it doesn't really matter to me.

In any case, you will not find many people installing tires that small, and definitely not on a 67+A/B/E/F/M/J, likely see a tire 25"+ in which case its quite easy to upsize your wheels and have lots of options (really a lot in the 25.6-26.3" range)

Again, my recommendation of the stock brakes in that case and hydroboost stands if you want to stay with them. The hydroboost alone with increase the performance of any system, especially if you're not able to lock the front wheels easily (more pressure available). OP was clearly talking about brakes for 15" + wheels anyway

Why do you do this?

Do you consider anything with a 70% aspect ratio a performance tire?

No. Anyone running a 205/70Rwhatever is not interested in handling, period. Why use them as an example? This is the handling not the resto forum.

I have 245/40R17's (24.7") going and some sheet metal mods and attention to backspacing is needed. Anything more than that and you will be cutting metal out. Remember we are talking about over all tire height now, not rim diameter.

Years ago I ran 245/60r14's in the back of my 72 Swinger and it would rub the inner fender in hard turns. That was with about a finger's width of clearance between the leaf and the sidewall and about the same between the rolled fender lip and the sidewall. I probably could have gone taller, but it would have just hit the inner fender sooner. The sidewall would also rub the side of the leaf in hard cornering, which I put down to sidewall flex due to the high aspect ratio, which a 70 aspect would just aggravate. What that Swinger needed was a shorter sidewall height and more spring rate, already had a rear bar in it.

Kind of wondering the same??? I'm advocating larger wheels for shorter sidewalls

I don't consider that to be a performance, but my point was people in a lot of cases run taller tires, so yes they fit. I also don't really consider running 14" anything to be optimal for handling/braking, etc as I've stated.

You aren't even using a sub 24" tire so I really don't understand why you had to get difficult about "nobody" - basically making my point for me - and yes this is in the context of the handling forum. I think in general we agree that large sidewalls flex a lot, but in the context about handling and increasing braking performance, put some bigger wheels on it - then you can upgrade everything else too.

I have a 1970 Duster with 275-35-18's which are 25.6" tall and by pushing the fender brace out, using the correct backspacing wheels, a minor grind on the Plymouth only fender brace tab, and a pan head bolt and they turn excellent. The back has the MP offset shackle kit, B-body 8 3/4 and no other mods.