What clutch would be best for street and track use?

I just bought a new project car,and I am trying to decide which clutch kit would be best for street and occasional auto cross and circle track,or road course use. The car is a 70 Charger body on a modern Loughlin style Nascar chassis, with a Daytona aero kit on it. The car will be powered by a 472 Hemi with approximately 750 horsepower and a Tremic 5 speed, with a full floating 9 inch rear axle. The Tremic transmission has a Lakewood blowshield with the block protector plate and Kieslers hydraulic clutch throw out bearing kit. Any help with selecting the correct clutch kit would be greatly appreciated. Thanks Pete.

The Tremec 5 speed probably won't survive. The upper limit of the TKO's (IMO) is 400rwhp/400rwtq. anything north of that and you should probably look into a T56 or a Legend.
To answer your question, Centerforce probably makes the best stuff for a street car and their stuff can get pretty racey. Give them a call and they can custom build the whole unit to your specs and driving style.

Pete-

How much did you have to pay for that thing?

I think there are better transmissions available for your build. But if you must stick with the tko, call pro motion powertrain in Florida. They've built tko's that stand up to 800+ hp, sell a 'brace' for the case (which cracks in high torque applications), and will spec a clutch to reduce the shock the trans experiences which in turn will help the transmission last as long as possible.

I bought this car from a Moparts member who just wanted out of the project. He was really beyond fair with me on it. I would say that I paid about a quarter of what is invested in it. The Tremic TKO came with the car. I will look into Pro Motion Powertrain. Thanks for the information. I may end up using the TKO in my other 70 Charger R/T that will have a more street friendly Hemi in it.

Few more options would be Jerico or Gforce and mcleod for your clutch set up. I would get maybe a street twin or a rag style clutch you can adjust the pressure on when street driving and then a race set up easy adjustment.

Once again I read about transmissions being "rated" for horsepower. That is meaningless. The only limitations on horsepower would be when the frictional losses in the tranny got so large that the transmission overheated.

The transmission is affected by TORQUE. Torque is what twists the shafts and puts pressure on the gear teeth making them want to slide apart or break off.

I believe that the hp "rating" is the manufacturer assuming a generic street rodded engine and estimating the hp and torque.
the manufacturer assumes that torque and horsepower will maintain the same ratio over the rpm curve. Say the factor used by the manufacturers is 1.2 lb-ft per 1 horsepower. I'd like to think that gearbox designers designed to a target torque for a particular box. So say the transmission is designed and tested for max torque of 600 lb-ft of torque. The manufacturer then applies the fudge factor and sees that 600 lb-ft "converts" to 500hp. Advertising geeks put it in print and there you have it. The transmission is good for 500hp.

Never mind that the transmission is mated to a 500hp Diesel engine running turbos and that engine puts out 450 lb-ft at idle and maxes out at 1100 lb-ft at 2400 rpm. The transmission never saw more than 500hp yet it is in pieces on the track.

R.

To hold with reasonable pedal effort agree something like a Centerforce. I would suggest call Silver Sport who bought Keisler. They have a twin disc clutch they recommend for high HP/torque applications.

I run a Keisler behind a warm BB stroker. The highest rated version (600 ft lb torque rating I believe). It has done OK even though my engine made 687 ft lb on a dyno after freshen and tuneup. With this transmission shifting as you approach and exceed 6,000 RPM can be tough.

I think it is worth getting the right clutch and give it a try. Later on you can upgrade to a Viper based 6 speed if you want.

what about maybe a Passon A855?