Sway-a-Way torsion bars (for A-B-E bodies)

Just noticed a manufacturer (on fabo) for A-body torsion bars I personally hadn't heard off before.
I read the experiences where positive.

I've been on the fence lately to upgrade my 1" JustSuspension bars for something larger.
FirmFeel is considered nice, but the pricetag is stiff, evenmore combined with shipping and customs in my case.

Anyone else have experience with bars of this company?
I like their simple pricing system that lists any diameter bar for the same price, and it includes a pair of torsion bar boots as well.

https://swayaway.com/product-category/torsion-bars/tb-dodge/

I don't have experience but they seem like a reputable company, looks like they've been making replacement torsion bars for other cars for a long time. I like their range of sizes too, all the way up to 1.24"! I think they're the only aftermarket company besides Firm Feel that offers t-bars that big. FWIW I'd buy a set from them, I also have the JS 1" bars and may look at upgrading once the rest of my suspension has been upgraded as well.

I just called them about making a set for our 57 DeSoto FireSweep ( the Dodge based one). They are open to making a set. Need to find the spare set from a 57 Dodge to find hex size and length. Yes it's more money. Has abody used them? Used D500 bars are not cheap if you can find a set.

Like I mentioned in the other thread, I have had a full tour of thier facility about 20 years ago.

They make sway bars, t-bars, and axles in house. CNC benders, hot stamp presses, punchers, spline making equiptment, lathes, etc.

Large chunk of the business is private label sway bars.

20 years ago they had just gone into a high end off road shock line.

I found out from my son that they are making the ones for the Porsche world. Anybody needs a set fin cars. If we get a few sets it maybe cheaper.

My son dugout the spare set and we sprayed penetrating oil in the rear bracket so we can get a length. We may send our spare set to be used a templet.

Directly or private label ?

When I was there they had 2-3 identical silver Porsche Boxters they got some sweet deal on.

Bob,
I've got 3 FWLK-cars that are lowered and could all use some more springrate on the front. Also got 2 more FWLK cars as future projects.
But I'm quite not ready yet to spend big money for 3-5 sets of bars.

I do like their pricing-policy way more friendly then FirmFeel's.

I like their offerings... especially the 1.24 TBs.... I run that size... originally purchased from California Moparts/Suspension back in the mid-1980s.

Hey, guys.
Has anyone had fitment problems with their torsion bars?
I've mentioned this problem on the Forabodiesonly.com forum...but I'm 90% certain that it was my screw up rather than a spec issue with the product, though I don't know how I did it.

I have 1.08" bars from Sway-A-Way, bought back in December or so.
Stock ones came out pretty easily, passenger side Sway-A-Way torsion bar was a really tight fit going in and it took some effort with the help of the installation tool but it eventually worked out.

Driver's side bar (and yes, I paid attention to the L/R markings) is stuck 1/2 way in the sleeve on the unibody.

I just ruled out that the bar was stuck in the lower control arm since after loosening it up and moving it with a pry bar, I can see that the bar stays put while the LCA moves.

I had given the Sway-A-Way bar some pretty good whacks on the end trying to get it installed and gave up when it seemed like it was taking too much force...and I suspect that the hex-end has been distorted because that SOB is NOT coming out.

The guy I spoke with at Sway-A-Way (Randy?)seemed like a hell of a good guy. He was genuinely concerned with the bar not fitting and he said that they would be willing to sell me just one bar (even though I'm sure they're made in sets) but he didn't have any ideas beyond what I've tried to get the thing back out to measure it.

I have used the Mancini Racing torsion bar tool in my efforts to get it out...and yes, I've whacked it hard with the big hammer and it's still not moving.

Has anyone else had trouble fitting their bars?

What else can I try for getting this thing out?

Apply heat to the socket so it expands?
Then after its out work the hexes lightly with a belt sander.

Nice quality parts. I have them in stock.

Bergmanautocraft.com

I have a pair of 1957 Dodge Torsion bars out in my shop area. They were replaced with NOS bars. If you need a measurement, let me know.

Well, I ended up cutting the driver’s side bar to get it out and I ordered a new set. Brian at Sway-A-Way clearly has some pride in his products, spent quite a bit of time with me on the phone trying to trouble shoot why the bar didn’t fit...ultimately, it’s hard to say what happened but I still tend to think it was my screw up rather than a spec issue with the bar.

So they gave me a generous discount on a replacement...so I’m at it again.

I’ll be damned if these bars don’t want to go in either! I know they fit fine in the LCA pivot. But even clocking the socket as precisely as I can, the bar is refusing to cooperate. Maybe the tolerances line up just right on my car that it’s just barely too snug?

So...if I were to take the sander to the hex, how much material could I remove before there’s a risk of weakening the bar? Obviously, I’ll do this one tiny bit at a time...

Assuming the bars are ok, any other suggestions as to what I might be doing wrong would be welcome!

You sure your ride ain't bent?

The dimensions of a T bar aren't secret and if they are in spec and not bent then your ride is the issue.

I'd find out what and fix it, probably sowbellied.

I think that I would pull the LCA's and see if the bars go in the LCA and try the crossmember mount. Yep it's more work but you are going to see what is going on and maybe were your issue is at. Good luck

Thanks, guys.
I have the car supported by the subframe and the K-Member to minimize the sag.... As far as I can see, the car looks pretty straight but that is a possibility.

I replaced the LCAs with QA1 pieces (to match the QA1 uppers) and I did confirm that the new torsion bars fit in the sockets on the LCA pivots before I installed them in the car...

I suppose I could try passing the rear hex through the cross member mount backwards to confirm that they fit...which would basically tell me where the problem is.

Thanks!!

Well heck, you got that T bar you cut up to get out.

I'd cut off a hex and rifle drill one of it for a bore sight laser and use that to check alignment of the sockets as installed in the car.

Might have the other hex chucked up and slightly dimpled in the center as a target.

I'd loosen the LCA from the K-frame and Spindle and also disconnect the Strut rod.

Then see how easily is all slides together.

I've seen a missinstalled LCA shaft prevent the bar from engaging all the way into the crossmember socket.

I've also seen adjustable strut bar force a misalignment between the LCA and crossember and complicate reinstalling the bar.

You verified fit in the control arm socket, certainly verify fit to the anchor socket. Do you have a stock lower arm you can substitute and see if that lines up?

I also thought about a mis-installed pivot. So is the issue the hexes don't line up or the actual sockets not in plane?

There is a topic in the Q&A forum about QA1 lowers not allowing a stock strut rod to fit. Maybe they have a bad batch out there with some alignment issues. maybe take your strut out and see if alignment can be achieved that way.

These are very nice clean forgings made in many diameters. I carry them in diameters I feel are good for modern street performance.