Swaybar strut bushings - Nylon for Less deflection?

Anyone running anything else than the rubber or polyurethane bushings in the vertical struts on the anti-swaybars?

I know aboutthe center tube which can be beefed up to prevent flex but I was just wondering about the bushing material at the moment.

I think the green brick modded some spherical end links to work. I think they used ones off a Viper, rusty memory there.

Drop links I know this is not Mopar but this is what I run on my Porsche. You can adjust out all the preload with you sitting in the car. The only down side is that you can hear them clank from time to time mainly in parking lots never driving. Love them just use plenty of anti seize.

I used spherical end links on the front bar on my '71 Sebring back in the '70s. Addco bars and they came from Addco with those links. Worked great and no noise.

Trying googling for images but didn't find any yet.

Did notice this type online, for GM cars;
(This will only take just one set of bushings out of the link.)




The amount of space is fairly tight between the mounting points of the LCA and swaybar.

All you have to do is go to Rock Auto and look at the Viper end links.

They look to be easily shortened if need be as well.

My Google Ninja-Skills were down for the flew I guess... You're right. The Viper's end links look like they could work.
Nicely priced as well.

We're here to help

Adjusting the sway bar end-link pre-load is important IF you want to get the best balance for the 4-corners. After I've set the 4-corner weight balance, WITH the sway bar end-links disconnected, then I re-attach the end links using extra as-needed same factory metal shims around the bushings so that each end link is near equal in its compression (load) to each other. In other words, you don't want any end-link to have more load than its opposing side... it will have some effect on the corner weight balance which you want to try to keep equal LH-RH (as well as the front and rear sway bears, respectively). IF I could figure adjustable end-links, I will (someday) install them and forget about the multiple shims. I need to look at the Viper setups and others. (Also... adjusting the 4-corner weight balance and the sway bar end links should be done with the car as-driven... driver's weight in driver's seat, if possible).

Reinforcing the LCA end-link tab is helpful... weld on an additional large washer to one side (top ok).

I've also varied (fine-tuned) the end link bushings from all rubber, partial rubber/poly, all poly... per my driving style (AX/HSAX/HPDE).

Over time, the poly bushing can self-destruct when driven very hard (i.e: competition AX/HSAX/HPDE), so, good idea to inspect and replace whenever needed (carry spares with you to the races). Also, carry spare end links... they can eventually break under hard driving/competition.

Viper Adjustable ends links

I need to look at these to see if the length is the same range. If it's not I would think that get the center in a longer length and cut it to size.

find some cheap tie rod ends and the appropriate threaded sleeve and nuts at a hardware store - should cost all of $40ish

Do you know how stock Mopar endlinks attach?

Yeah, stoopid money

$200 EACH for stock replacements

$260 for adjustable ones.

Wee.

Even the OEM MoPar ones are cheaper at RockAuto.
The aftermarket replacements at RA are even less. Less than a tenth the price.

throwing something out there. is there enough length on the sway bar arms to cut off the factory ends, then mill the remaining ends 90 degrees with corresponding holes to accommodate a "tie rod" style end ? i realize this small amount of shortening will affect the bar rate. the control arm mount could easily be fabbed to utilize this style of mount, and compensate for shortening of the bar.

Moog has some rock hard "problem solver" links, identical to stock Srt-4. several different lengths. They claim its polyurethane but they're very rigid and feel as hard as nylon.

K700528 is for a 73 Dart

http://www.moog-suspension-parts.com/moog-k700525

Yeah, you can do that. It gets well outside the realm of cheap though. I don't have a mill so I can buy one and learn how to use it or I can find a competent machine shop and pay them to do it.

I can shorten stock Viper end links with my current tool and skill set and wallet contents.

Step 1 Search Ebay for "swaybar links"
Step 2Find the design you like and note its application(year/make/model)
Step 3 Order off RockAuto

10min later

$10-$40 each 2007 Lincoln Navigator

2004 Viper
$15

Perfect!! IF only it weren't 4" too long.

Try for the bolt on before hack/weld option

You got dimensions on either?

McMaster-Carr, 932 bronze bearing tube, .25" wall, 1" diameter, 3" long, $9.62. Cut them into .25" thick pucks, replace bushing, bolt down. Replaced every 12-18 months.

https://www.mcmaster.com/#bronze/=19o1phq

Seems like a few degrees of body roll will bend & snap the bolt in short order. I seriously doubt it'd last a few days let alone a few weeks.

There's good reason why every sway bar link on the planet can pivot about at least 1 of its attachment points. Unless you K-Car the end of the swaybar, the links have to be free to move without binding.

I've ordered some $20,- Viper end links yesterday on RockAuto. Will probably take a week or more to get here.

I've thought about making some Nylon pucks on my lathe to replace the poly-bushings, but I don't think this will last long as too much force will be put on the long bolt and linkage during driving/cornering.

The '07 Lincoln links look to be sized better to the one's I need.

i keep forgetting i have an advantage over most, because of my 42+yr machinist skills, and my shop setup acquired over those many years that allows me to do things in retirement most have to source out. sorry. sometimes the ideas that are easy for me are beyond the realm of back yard "do it your self" technology.

has anyone used these adjustable links? curious if they are short enough to work?
also I've read ideally, The sway bar and should be near parallel to the road surface with the car sitting on the ground. If you have lowered suspension, the sway bar will be angled