Bolt on hub/bearing assembly

Is anyone making a bolt on hub assembly yet for the old stuff, or is the answer still 'take an original rotor and turn it down in a lathe to make one'?

Looking for a hub assembly that fits onto the spindle and is held on with the original castle nut, that allows you to use slip on rotors.

I thought AndyF at one time had a solution, and Dr Diff, not sure what Ron Sutton offers in OEM bearings.

The Dr Diff brake kits use one. It might increase the track width some...you'd have to ask Cass to be sure.

Any old front wheel 'brake drum' has these hubs 'incorporated' and would be easy to seperate and source to come by.
Drumbrake-hubs might even have a better (narrower) track width too.

My Wilwood hubs use slip on rotors. Factory e-body drum spindles.

That would be the smaller bearing set-up, correct?
Same option is not available in the big bearing?

Do you have pics or part numbers? I saw some wilwoods, but they looked like the kind of hub that uses a 2 piece rotor, and the friction surface bolts to the back side of the hub. I'd like to find hubs that use true slip on rotors so I can use any rotor with the right bolt pattern.

I also used Wilwood aluminum hubs, mine are for a 73 dodge a-body with disk brake spindles and using a true slip on 2pc rotors.

http://www.wilwood.com/Search/PartNoSearch.aspx?q=270-11533

Id post pics if i could. Im running the wilwood hub I linked along with 14" 2pc rotors, aluminum hats and wilwood GNIII calipers.

I don't have any disassembled photos but their instructions for the ebody kit has good exploded diagrams. My rotors are multi pattern slip on.

Cass - Dr Diff. Aluminum.

Dr. Diff offers some good setups... he probably has exactly what you're looking for. I've seen a couple on local cars (HSAX/HPDE)... good quality, etc.

Only one I've heard of is '73- A body with drums, think it's small bolt pattern

You are talking about two different things. You can buy aluminum hubs from Baer or Wilwood that use the factory style bearings and seals. I wouldn't really call that a bolt on hub assembly though. A hub assembly is what most of the new cars have where the bearings are all sealed in a hub assembly and the whole thing is held on with a big nut and a lot of torque.

I designed a setup like that for Mopar vehicles but I didn't have the money to tool it up. The design is fairly simple and it would provide a bunch of advantages but it would cost a ton of money to produce.

Andy, did you look at having Coleman build the spindles for that type of hub/bearing?

No, I never talked to Coleman about the spindles. I designed up a Mopar knuckle with a Mustang stub axle (spindle) which allow a person to bolt on a Mustang sealed hub and then bolt on Mustang brakes and wheels. I figured that would be the cheapest way to go. The knuckle could've been built with a 1" drop also. Pretty simple concept but it takes $100K or more to make it happen and then some serious marketing in order to sell enough volume to recoup the investment. Just decided I wasn't going to risk my money on it since most Mopar guys are into the restoration end rather than the cornering thing.

Here is a picture of a few hubs I made back in the day. The black one is aluminum, the other ones are steel. Looks like I was trying different offsets.

Sealed bearings would be cool, but I'd be ok with a hub assembly that uses hand packed wheel bearings, primary goal being a hub that I can slip any 5-lug rotor onto, allowing me to fabricate my own brake kit. I know there's some good kits out there but most are using wilwood or Baer calipers. I prefer to use Brembos found on OEM set ups for ease if replavement parts, and the reliability of an all weather caliper complete with dust boots vs the 'resto-mod' stuff that lacks boots.

If it was me I'd buy the Baer hubs and work from there. Baer stuff is much higher quality than anything that Wilwood makes. If you don't want to spend the money for the Baer stuff then get some drum brake hubs and start with them.

The different offsets in the hubs is a nice thing the a-body crowd would love.
Pretty much every discbrake conversion makes the trackwidth wider on these, while tire/fender clearance is already too close to run a decent width tire and a nice stance.
Too bad they're such cheap-a folks usually

Really? This is an 18x9 +35mm wheel with a 275-35-18 on it with the Dr Diff Cobra brakes, nothing really custom here. Ideal would have been 2mm further in but it doesn't hit at all so I'm not concerned. You're just not going to be running a zero offset wheel.

Unless there's something special about Valiant/Duster fenders I don't know about, I don't see why this would be an issue on any 67-76 A-body.

I also have the B-body axle in the back to match.

Which year(s) B-body axle are you running; 65-67 or 68-70?

1968, but Dusters are pretty wide in the back. My friend has a 65 axle in his Demon and I didn't notice much difference, nothing that couldnt be made up with a small wheel spacer.

I measured an all original metal one owner 70 340 Duster yesterday for inner to top 1/4 lip inside edge and go the same exact measurement as the original 68 Barracuda coupe wheel wells I have.

I currently run a hybrid Dr Diff/Baer setup. Original front's from Baer with their aluminum hubs. Rears from Dr Diff. Also replacement front rotors from Dr Diff. Front rotors are from a late 90's Corvette from memory. Calipers from a Cobra. I could get all normal service parts from the local parts store if I wanted.

Let us know if you find a usable hub

Did Baer stop making them?


http://baer.com/Mopar-hub-hubparts/

Still making the brake kits using their hubs, so unless it's a case of using up existing stock then no more I gotta think an Email to support might be needed here.

Alright. Thanks. I was doing more searching and saw they still list the full kits. They have a full 6-piston kit for $2400. I know I can make my own kit using a 6-piston Brembo for probably about $800. Just gotta find a hub solution

I have one Baer hub on hand if you want to buy it. I'm sure you can come up with another one somewhere. Baer is still selling kids to the have the hubs. Maybe call them and tell them you need one.

Let me call Baer first.

Sorry, couldn't resist...

If I am not mistaken, Dr Diff sells the front hubs and whole front disc kit. I would not hesitate to buy from him.

He does. And I have bought from him in the past. But he charges $1250 plus shipping for a 4 piston "brembo caliper" copy on a 13" rotor.

I can build myself a set with real 6-piston brembo calipers on 13" rotors for several hundred less than that. Possibly even half of that depending on what price I can get hubs, rotors, etc.

You guys know that Coleman builds custom spindles pretty cheap, like under $500, that would allow the use of a variety of big bearing Coleman hubs (also very cheap) This would solve the camber/roll center issue on B and E bodies by having one made taller, and allow you to use a much stronger hub, all under $1500. As far as brakes, 6 piston calipers are nice if needed and the piston area has been calculated and MC and brake pedal ratio setup. You can have more brake force than the tires can use. Everything has to be designed or calculated based on the application.

I made these for my D100 too use Mustang 13" rotors. I machined them so the rotor thickness plus hub put the wheel in stock location.

Looks nice and beefy which is what you want for a truck.

Hey Badeeds, those are SUPER nice. I almost wish I had known you were producing something like this instead of cutting down a Dakota rotor. What's the price on these?

Greg

PS. Are you the gent that hooked up a Toyota R154 to a Mopar 2.4L a few years ago?

Greg, I was thinking about $350 for the pair with studs and races installed. I have been real hesitant on selling because of liability. I have my first version on my truck giving real world test. I will soon have 3 other friends using them soon. They will have the version as pictured. The current version is a lot more beefy in the inter bearing and stud area. Couldn't do much on the out side since the rotor has to slip overit.I did add a male changer that matches up with female chamfer of rotor. Gives strength and keeps rotor centered.

Yes I am the one that mated the 2.4 to the R154.That vehicle is still not running.Hopefully next year. Life, (kid sports, moving, changing career, too many project, ect.....) Got in the way haha.

State of my 34 Dodge pu