Frozen Wheel Cylinder?

I did a complete rear brake, front brake, proportioning valve, master cylinder, and wheel cylinders last month. 150 miles already. Last night I drove it to my buddies warehouse to adjust the rear brakes. The rear wheels were really loose so we adjusted them until a slight drag. Did not over tighten them. I drove home about 25 miles and pulled it in to the garage. When I got out of the car I smelled brakes and noticed a lot of smoke coming from the right rear tire. I did not drive with the e-brake on. Today we pulled the right rear tire and drum off. The drum was hard to pull off. Everything was cooked. When we stopped on the brake pedal with the drum off, we noticed that the forward shoe was moving but the rear shoe was not. The wheel cylinder was not pushing the rear shoe back or forth. We stopped and left it alone and walked away. I was very frustrated. Does that sound like a frozen wheel cylinder?

Nope

Sounds exactly like a wheel cylinder acts without the drum on.

Since no one is a mind reader how about you tell use what type of front brakes and what vehicle.

Fronts are Raybestos 11" disc pads and the rear Raybestos shoes. We put some pressure on the shoes and noticed the rear shoe not moving and the forward shoe was moving. The problem is with the right rear brake on a 1970 Charger. Front disc rear drum. 15/16 master cylinder with 7/8" wheel cylinders. It had the wrong proportioning valve for the last 31 years and that's why I changed it.

The wheel cylinder isn't your issue.

Don't believe me? Pull the other side and see what it does.

Did you happen to put the self adjuster on wrong?

Cause that's what it sounds like.

I don't think so.

hi, did you take apart and lube the new wheel cyl's? are they mopar nos? china cyl's? I have seen them junk right out of the box. ronnie

The wheel cylinder says Made In USA but don't remember we if we lubed it. Just wondering if it is a frozen wheel cylinder or something else.

Cooked

Looks like it's in right, though I wonder what was rubbing on the inside face of the drum?

IDK if it is a frozen Wheel cylinder... or why the problem after adjustment? If you suspect frozen cylinder, suggest you change it and test again.

I'm wondering if it stuck after the adjustment. Since everything looks toast, I'm changing everything on the right rear.

Can you push the rear piston in on the wheel cylinder? If so not frozen.

How's the wheel bearings adjustment? If they're loose the axle can get a bit off center and if the shoes are adjusted tight without weight, they can drag quite a bit with weight on the tires.

Or if you're as lucky as me, you might have an egg shaped housing end...

Well did new brakes and wheel cylinder on the right rear side . Drove it about 20 miles and the left rear brakes got stuck and started smoking. I think it might be the Proportioning Valve might be defective. Got a new replacement from the place I ordered it and installed it today. Will take it out probably tomorrow and see what happens. Could the self adjusters be the problem?

They are easy to rebuild get a kit and do it

I had 3 people come over and look at it. All of them says the shoes and springs were correct. We are thinking that the self adjusters for some reason are adjusting itself every time I apply the brakes. I took out the self adjusters and it is not seizing the brakes anymore. The only problem I have now is the right rear drum gets hotter than the left rear. I pulled out the right rear axle and found out that there was hardly any more grease on the bearing. We are thinking that the first time it seized the right rear it burned up all the grease. Like I said, it was very hot and smoking really bad.