Leaf spring replacement... do it myself?

Thanks to Mancini's cyber Monday sale, I am the proud owner of a new set of XHD leaf springs for my Coronet.
The counter guy made me feel pretty confident that I could handle a DIY install.
Just wondering if this is as easy as it looks, assuming the nuts and bolts all come off the old ones? I did buy new front bolts and rear shackles.
Any input or advise is greatly appreciated. The last thing I want to do is have it apart and not be able to get it back together.

Thanks in advance,

You're probably going to want all new parts - including u-bolts, etc.

Mine broke when the guy went to take them off (but he told me in advance it was probably going to happen so I gave him all the parts in advance).

I wasn't going to do it while laying on my back in the driveway when I could just pay someone to do it on a lift in an hour or two.

It's a fairly easy procedure. I used 4 jack stands (2 under the car, 2 under the axle), a jack, and the necessary wrenches to swap out the springs on my E-body.

Jack up car and put a pair of stands at the rear frame.
Loosen or cut the u-bolts, raise the axle up on another pair of stands to remove tension on the springs. May need to support front of differential.
Remove rear shackle bolts, lower spring to ground.
Remove front hanger bolts, remove spring.

Perfect opportunity to paint parts. Install new springs on hanger.

Reverse above to install. Look at the manual for torque values.

Not sure about the B-bodies, but removing the E-body rear valance sure opens up a lot of room to get to the rear shackles.

Would it be okay to complete the swap one side at a time? Or will that make things more difficult? I have more garage space on one side of that bay.

Doing it one side at a time is the best method. It allows the axle to stay secure while you are cranking on old rusty stuff!

I've done mine a couple of times ('70 E with valence removed). Not too hard. Agree with all the comments/suggestions so far. Including the new U bolts unless yours are recently replaced.

I'll just add, start soaking any fasteners you want to remove with rust penetrant several days in advance.

Ive found it easier to just cut off the old u-bolts. A single hacksaw cut on the top of the axle (or bottom on trucks) will usually do the job even if you have to cut on an angle. They do snap when cut though, they are under a lot of pressure. U-bolts are usually reasonable in price, so why fight with 40-50 year old stuff?

For sure cut the old u-bolts. Makes the job easier and you won't bust knuckles. Figure out how long the bolts need to be for replacement with the new springs. May need to be shorter or longer. NAPA can get them. Off road shops are another source too.

Yup, was not do and can be done in a couple hours. Hopefully you didn't get the Mopar Performance Mexico leaf springs, those are garbage. I did a couple on a/@-bodies and the hotchkis leaf kit on my 70' Cuda. While I had the leafs out, I swapped out to some blisten shocks and swaybar brackets since I had the access. In fact, looking to pickup a couple more leaf springs since my chargers are needing an upgrade too.

What about the shocks? Can I leave the bottom bolted up?

What time are you saving by leaving the shocks attached? Zip the nut off and zip it back on when the U bolt plates are back in place.
Often times, leaving stuff attached means having stuff in the way while doing a job.

...or by leaving the shock attached,you might not get enough axle droop.

Wanted to thank everyone for the advise. Job is done. Took everyone's advise except for avoiding the Mexican made springs... I'll gamble they will last a few years. If not I know how to do this again. Now on to fixing a gas leak., I think the sending unit rubber seal is not seated properly. Anyone ever replace that without dropping the tank?

That's great. I run the MP XHD springs also. I like mine low but after a year or two they sagged too low. I also needed more spring rate. The fix was to add a full leaf at a local spring shop. $100 and both problems solved.

As far as the fuel sender, lots of posts on this. On most cars it can be removed without dropping the tank. Reproduction lock rings and gaskets seem to be thinner than OE which causes sealing issues. Just not enough clamp. Searching out a thicker gasket and using a cleaned up old lock ring help. The thin gaskets can be stacked but this might be too tight - a last resort.