SSBC Brakes hit sway bar - rear mount, which flexible line?

I installed the SSBC front disc brake (156-1) kit on my '69 Road Runner and the caliper hits the sway bar on full steer. I called SSBC and they said it shouldn't hit but it did. I decided to replace my ball joints and swap spindles and mount them to the rear. The only issue with this is the original line doesn't work (it pinches on full steer).

Has anyone ran into this issue? Does anyone have a recommendation on what specific line you used or advice on how to go about calculating what I need.The hydraulic line that it came with it touches the lower control arm and I don't like it. Any advice or part recommendations would be great.

Thank you.

John

I got a line set made for rear mount calipers (different system) by taking the supplied lines which did not fit and cutting them in half. Then slipped a section of poly tubing over the lines so I could adjust length and fitting orientation. I tested with t bars out at full left/right and jounce/rebound until I found a setup that worked then locked the poly tubing in place with hose clamps. I sent the mock ups to inline tube and had a perfect set of hoses on the way in about a week.

In your case, probably need some type of angle coming out of the caliper... or shorter connection section to avoid the rub. Need to know the thread type at the caliper (? 1/8" NPT, something else?).

Is your 'full steer' with all steeringlinkage attached?
It might not even go that far if the other wheel blocks further movement.

I don't see the bleedscrew but I think the calipers can't be bled when mounted this way.

Thanks AHY I will find out what the thread is. Someone told me a banjo won't work, do you think that is the case?

Thanks BBM - I tested it with the steering linkage connected. I also threw a tire on it and tried it but I admit I didn't have a tire on the other side. The bleed screw is at the top on the outside so I think it is fine.

A banjo would need a machined spot face on the caliper and correct threads for the banjo bolt. Hard to tell from the pic. Need to pull the line to tell.

In-line tube sells all manner of fittings and adapters... once you know what setup the calipers have, you might find something there.

Those SSBC 4 piston brake calipers are really nothing more than 66-67 Mustang Kelsey Hayes calipers with that hose mounting design, and location.
The Mustangs used either 3/8 or 7/16 diameter threaded hoses into the caliper.

Find out what size your SSBC calipers are and look into hoses for a Mustang.
I have a new 3/8 hose here, that measures 16 1/2 inch, if that helps you out any for your car.
Jim V.

I attached pics of where the brake line attacks to caliper and the fitting end. It looks like a 3/8" 24. Does it look like it will work with a banjo? If not, what fitting would work?
I really appreciate the input very much, I know very little about this stuff.

rocket34
Whats the length of your rubber brake hose that your trying to use right now?
You just need a hose to fit that caliper that's somewhat longer in length.
I gave you the length of a 66 Mustang hose, and see if that's longer than the one that your using.
70-74 Cuda's and Challenger's use a hose that screws right into the caliper on their single piston design.
See if those hoses are longer than the one that you now have.
Do your own research on hose length and go from there.
Rock Auto has good information on their parts pages.
A bango bolt fitting type of hose, won't work, fit, on the Kelsey Hayes 4 piston type of calipers, without machining the body of the caliper flat, where the hose would attach.
Just find a hose,for your needs.

Here's a picture of a Ford caliper on the left, a Mopar caliper in the middle, and a Mopar single piston caliper, on the right, with the banjo bolt, hose fitting.
You can see the differences in how all the hoses attach to each of the calipers.

Don't go turning your problem from a mole hill, into a mountain.

The length I am using now is about 16.5" end to end. That's great advice. The other end seems to be a 5/16" connection but I am sure I can use an adaptor.

That middle one is the one I need. If I can forego going between the shock and the knuckle and just go direct it may work better.

Well, it appears that you allready have a Mustang hose in use, from the length size that you posted.
Your other option is to have a custom length hose made up, with the proper ends, at a hydraulic shop in, or around your city, that's capable of doing that type of work.
A braided hose, or rubber hose, any type you want.
Or find a vendor that sells braided hose in the length that you need, with the proper ends.

Thanks for the offer for that brake line, I missed that somehow.

I may have done all this swapping for nothing. Is the sway bar mounted properly? The previous owner did it and I never gave it much thought until now. Photo attached.

The sway bar goes under the lower control arm. That would be your clearance problem. And you have the wrong sway bar link to the control arm.

Picture.
Factory sway bar mounting.

I am looking at a disk brake conversion, other than the hose issue are you happy with the kit and the quality? It looks great.

The swaybar looks homemade/altered to fit on the car.
I think it will be slightly too long and hit or end up under the lip of the LCA when its mounted in the correct way.

Ok I got the sway bar link installed. I have to say it is close to hitting the lower ball joint nut but it shouldn't interfere with the LCA. Let me know what you guys think. Worse case I buy a stock sway bar.

Thanks for your input.