qa1 k frame

qa1 k frame worth the money ? for a 69 charger , my lower control arm pin mounts in k frame are all cracked !!BROKEN << IVE fixed all my buddys cars 3 to b exact . just thinking time for more room around headers and less flex . anyone using one ?? i have a firm feel box and tubular upper control arms and all the other stuff !!

There is no triangulation in the QA1 crossmember. It's all right angles, the factory K frame is triangulated. You won't be getting less flex and lighter weight, it'll be either or.

Straight line racer, probably not an issue, anything else is an issue.

What improvements would you make to make the QA1 less flexy?

QA1 guys have been on here in the past describing this product and they have admitted that it is not hugely lighter than a stock frame, maybe only a few pounds, but is measureably more rigid than stock. Despite not having much triangulation, it does have very short runs of round tube which provides the strength. Any changes you perform to it will add weight and make it weigh more than stock.

http://www.qa1.net/media/catalog/product...dy-k-member.png

I see zero triangulation.

In order to make this as strong as a triangulated K member you have to build it stouter, raising the weight.

What I would have done, using the above link as a reference, would have been to take the second cross bar and make it an arc rather than a straight piece. Each end of the arc would have ended up in the same place as the straight piece (or further aft even) and the center would have been tied to the front straight piece.

Look at the stock triangulation, they tie the lower pivots together, something QA1 does not do

http://www.engine-swaps.com/Photos4Website/TechInfoPics/KMember_Photos/KMember%20BE%20Hemi.jpg

Somebody buy one and do some tests like the US Car Tool guys did!

Where can I find results of the USCartool tests?

This is funny. They used a floor jack to copy the real surface plate testing done by XV.

Without much schooled structural knowledge, my main 'concerns' with the QA1 K-member could be the 2 front vertical tubes where the K-member mounts to the framerails, which would seemingly necessitate longer front bolts. Also the tubes have a smaller contactpatch on the frame.
And I would maybe add some simple horizontal gussets in the rearcorners of the 2nd crosstube.
Maybe add a downward gusset to the pass.side engine mountpad since the engine is pushing on that pad most of the time.

Then again, pesonally I would think anyone really concerned about rigidity will simply weld the entire (stock or aftermarket) K-member to the framerails and not rely on 4 bolts holding the entire front suspension to the car.
Anyone know if this has actually been done before?

A B-body K-member is only a little heavier than the 35lb A-body K-member. It's hard to get much lighter than that.

The LCA pin tubes were underwelded from the factory. This is a 73-76 A-body K that I took apart to straighten and add reinforcements to the inside. You can't get to this area without cutting the K-member open (a small area, perhaps 2" x 2" would suffice).

just got home from NY being on the road gets old , weight is not my concern so much , its a hot rod corner carver , I CALL IT ha ha ha !!! my daily driver is a 2007 magnum . I m trying to make my 1969 charger handle and stop close LOL !! all my friends have 69 chargers 3 , and they all want there cars to drive like mine . very happy with my car ,, but now i got the broken pin mounts so I'm thinking .. buy a q a 1 or get a factory one cut it apart and weld my butt off !! I think q a1 is a little pricey I have the $ in my slush fund aka car fund !!! MAXWELLHOUSE CAN IN CELLAR !! I weld up rusted plow trucks and sanders when I'm not runnig 10,000 ton trains . I would add gussets to qa1 and bars , spend 700 plus delivered and have to add to it is a joke !!! and I will weld it to car !! GRADE 8 BOLTS AND WELD IT !! I'm going to get a clean factory k and cut it up !!! I THNK its my destiny HAHA ha !!!

Uhhh... did you go off your meds?

So you want to weld up your "K" frame to sheetmetal frame members? Go ahead and when it cracks, let us know what else broke...

I have an idea how you can fix your problem. I was gonna do it to my KOS Demon but instead I just beefed up the K frame where the pivot goes through with a washer welded on the front side.

You can cut out the stock K frame tube with a 1 1/4" hole saw and put in 1.25OD CM and from the other side put in 1" OD, 3/4" ID tubing and weld those to the K frame. Then use a HDK tubular control arm with .750 OD section that goes through the K frame.

These HDK LCAs go with his tubular UCAs and upper shock mount. Then add coil overs and lose the torsion bars. He is shipping kits now. A lot lighter than the stock LCA for sure.

I am doing this to my KOS Demon right now. Give Denny a shout at:

hemidenny@rocketmail.com

The Qa1 frame looks to be much stronger at the control arm load point and a large flat at the rear most frame bolt points where the wheel load is transferred to body.Also the tubing appears as thick as a well made class 3 hitch.By comparison the stock frame is a thin stamping with poor control arm pin retention area unless re welded with gussets.Ditto for the steering box mount. The vertical front tube , frame bolt design looks to me as similar to adding a front radiator brace , greatly stiffening the front uni-body twist.A mod to stiffen the front uni-body such as 14 or 12 gauge steel ,Rosette welded to the entire run of the front frame rails , before mounting K frame would greatly stiffen front end of car.

The couple of street cars I've seen with the QA1 frame give up ground clearance. I see the strut rod mount cantilevering off the front tube. Personally, I'd think this was designed as a drag race piece.

I think I am going to pull the trigger on one of these K-members.

I am concerned with the tabs for the strut bars more than anything.


I am trying to figure out a way to test flex between it and a stock K member. Any ideas??

One guy I raced with had that front end and had trouble keeping his alignment. He said he was going to go another route. Mike

I got mine today...

I will pull my old K out and see if there is any way to do some sort of deflection measurement.

Not sure how, but who knows!

So far my impressions of the unit itself are good.

i love mine