Quote:well thanks for the compliment Pale lol! They all can be made to handle exceptional really. It all comes down to grip and balance IMO. A BB B body will out handle a BB A body 9 out of 10 times, even in stock form. A B body with an aluminium SB and 315's at all 4 corners would be a serious handler, just wonder why nobody seems to try that big of tire.
Though I'D run a B-body, its hard not to say A-body. The answer is A-body. Though, tire size limitation is a factor. The B's... some ov them anyways can eat up a lot more tire than an A-body. Though... as i type that i think about 72Swinger's car... He's certainly got enough meat... so again, yeah, its hard not to say A-body.
Between the tire size thing, the appearance thing (71 Demons look good, but not 71RR/69RR/68-9 Charger good...), and the width (wider track)... i'll still take the B-body. I'm a weight-reduction master anyways.
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A B body with an aluminium SB and 315's at all 4 corners would be a serious handler, just wonder why nobody seems to try that big of tire.
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i am curious about building my super bee clone for a little better handling then stock like as good as like a 80s-90s muscle car my car currently is shell its mini tubbed with frame connectors. Is there any thing i can do budget wise to improve its handling or would it be cheaper to get lets say 67-9 barracuda or a demon.I am just curious about this
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and your '68 will now handle more like a '90 Mustang.
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One thing I don't see mentioned yet, with an A body, you can be a lot more aggressive with the mods with little concern with reversibility, as the car is also likely a bit less desirable and/or collectible.
Quote:thems pizza cutters lol....
It fits a small block, and I run 285 Fronts and 305 Rears, so it's not too bad....
Quote:Not much for Road Racing in WI? I thought Elkhart Lake was in WISCONCIN? I think there is a pretty sweet track around there abouts....
the car mainly will be street driven not much for road racing in wisconsin i was toying with the idea of getting one of the Hotchkis suspension kits.Since the cars gonna complete front end rebuild kit torsion bars disc brake conversion and leaf springs i figure it out do every thing stock itd be close to 1500.So whats another 1500 you got a car that will handle better i'm starting to get intrested in building a 400 over a 440 or wont there be a big diffrence.With a b body i also want fast 2.0 fuel injection on it and a six speed manual this car wont be done for a about 3 years i just learned alot when i built my fury and i just wanna have one really kick ass super bee clone. mainly drive train it might not have carpet or a back seat and im also planning on adding a 68-70 gas filler to it also
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It fits a small block, and I run 285 Fronts and 305 Rears, so it's not too bad....
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It fits a small block, and I run 285 Fronts and 305 Rears, so it's not too bad....
What did you have to do to get the 285 to fit? If you have a thread with the details, please point the way.
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Kevin, Dan installed the Hotchkis kit in Yuma, 18x10 +42 offset wheels, really just some minor fender work in the front, rolled the lips, cut an inch out of the rear of the front wheel opening behind the lip and re-welded it, and took a pneumatic jack and pushed the top of the lip out about 3/4 of an inch. I'm trying to get a quick build thread put together next week. It's unfortunately on the other end of the build spectrum from your awesome Duster, but trying to race it as much as possible this year!
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Kevin, Dan installed the Hotchkis kit in Yuma, 18x10 +42 offset wheels, really just some minor fender work in the front, rolled the lips, cut an inch out of the rear of the front wheel opening behind the lip and re-welded it, and took a pneumatic jack and pushed the top of the lip out about 3/4 of an inch. I'm trying to get a quick build thread put together next week. It's unfortunately on the other end of the build spectrum from your awesome Duster, but trying to race it as much as possible this year!
That seems way too easy... Might be on the opposite side of the spectrum, but yours is running.
Remember the laws of physics when it comes to going fast, light is right, cars, tires, wheels, pistons, crankshafts rods, brakes and so on. The other half of that law is big is best, motors, carbs, tires and so on 
Back in the mid 1970s I sold a 1970 Hemi Cuda clone car to a young kid in Santa Monica, CA, he said he was going to street race it in and around Hollywood and San Fernado Valley CA. I ASSUMED street drag racing it stoplight to stop light, he wasn't 
He wanted to race it up n the hills between Hollyweird and San Fernado valley on the other side of the Hollywood hills 
Bottom line is he called me on how to make that car go around corners better, that was not doable back then, I told him to sell that car and buy a 340 or 360 powered Duster and never look back. He insisted that he loved the E bodys so I suggested he find a AAR Cuda or a T/A Challenger, which he did He bought a 1970 T/A Challenger and raced it up on the hill, the first week he raced it he called me and thank me profusely, he siad that the Challenger was way faster through the curves than the Hemi Cuda was and almost as fast as it was on the straights :shruggy :Bottom line was he was beating up every car that came up there to play, including the turbo charged Porches of that day 
IHTHs I love BB powered Mopar drag cars, but the results of his endeavors speak volumes on where to start with a handling car My last BB powered Duster with the 400 stroker motor moved back one inch and the rear end moved forward one inch had 50.2 % weight on the front tires and 49.8 % on the rears with me(260 lbs) in the drivers seat My original steel front end 415 HP M.W. 1963 Plymouth Belevedere sedan had similar weight disribution with me in it also Bottom line is to pick the best choice out there to start any new race car project, if you want to win and have fun doing that
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I've owned and drag race a lot of different Mopar body styles and year cars over the years, no doubt in my mind on which is better for your deal.
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WTF does drag racing have to do with handling?
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That is only part of it. Another huge consideration is weight shift/transfer and balance in transitions.
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I guess I build them backwards as I usually build the suspension, brakes and trans/driveshaft/axles first, then add HP. Seen too many builds with more HP than the brakes, suspension, trans, driveshaft and/or axle could handle.
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I've owned and drag race a lot of different Mopar body styles and year cars over the years, no doubt in my mind on which is better for your deal.
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This is the handling forum, not the 13 year old gurl who emotes too much forum. WTF does drag racing have to do with handling?
Open your mind and start thinking BTW, I have help some roundy round racer when a few track championships, none of this race car stuff, regardless of which way you race, is hard to get a handle on 
