Front End Recommendations - Stock K

• My 0.9" bars will likely be going for 1.1" bars, from what I see that is the common upgrade diameter/rate for E-bodies. Brand? Mopar Performance? Other?
  
  
• My original strut rods are toast, bent up, chewed up threads, they'll be going. I would imagine there are aftermarket upgrades to reduce longitudinal compliance in the LCAs over what the factory was able to get done. Brand recommendation?
  
  
• The car has Cordoba 11-3/4" slider brakes on it, with the late B-body knuckles. I have to go back and check, but I think those are not the ideal knuckles to be running.
  
  
• LCA pivots, I see Hotchkis has some greasible units, worth the money? Someone else?
  
  
• Tie rods, my stockers are worn out and need replacing. The $350 ones Hotchkis has are sure nice, but I will have to look at DIYing those with some 5/8" rod ends, 4130 tubing and tube adapters. I could likely TIG a set of those up pretty quickly.
  
  
• UCAs - Worth replacing? My stockers have relatively new MOOG joints in them, I had an issue with the passenger side pushing the threads out, so it was tightened and tacked. Needless to say, I'm not trilled with the arms I have at the moment.
  
  
• Sway bar[s]. I have an OEM front sway bar, adding a rear would likely be worth upgrading. With the increase in torsion bar rate and perhaps some adjustable dampers, I may not dive into a front bar just yet.
  

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Metal-work
As far as the K-member itself goes. I've been told to look it over for cracked welds, perhaps finishing up some factory welds as well. I am not aware of any areas that are prone to flexing around, does the steering box generally need any more support?

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I'm very green to dealing with torsion-bar setups and what is out there for our Mopars. The purpose of putting my car together is going to be for some spirited driving and the occasional road course run...perhaps autocross as well.

I have the K-out and disassembled, I'll be cleaning it up and rebuilding a few things under there at the same time. The budget is really bang-for-buck, and "do it while it's apart" dependent. Things like upgrading LCA bushings [if avail] while it's apart or other changes that should be sternly considered while it's apart and out of the car. On the other end, I am interested in good bang-for-buck items, bar rate, perhaps UCAs[$$], etc. I'd say around $1,200 tops on upgrades, not including the steering box.

I would like to keep a good compromise of road manners, reliability, part-life and performance. I understand the benefits of reduced compliance of rod ends in various places, but I do not want to have a clicky suspension after a couple thousand street miles and have to be in the front end every year for maintenance/replacing ends. So perhaps keeping bushings with higher durometer would be better suited in a few places.

• My 0.9" bars will likely be going for 1.1" bars, from what I see that is the common upgrade diameter/rate for E-bodies. Brand? Mopar Performance? Other?
  
  
• My original strut rods are toast, bent up, chewed up threads, they'll be going. I would imagine there are aftermarket upgrades to reduce longitudinal compliance in the LCAs over what the factory was able to get done. Brand recommendation?
  
  
• The car has Cordoba 11-3/4" slider brakes on it, with the late B-body knuckles. I have to go back and check, but I think those are not the ideal knuckles to be running.
  
  
• LCA pivots, I see Hotchkis has some greasible units, worth the money? Someone else?
  
  
• Tie rods, my stockers are worn out and need replacing. The $350 ones Hotchkis has are sure nice, but I will have to look at DIYing those with some 5/8" rod ends, 4130 tubing and tube adapters. I could likely TIG a set of those up pretty quickly.
  
  
• UCAs - Worth replacing? My stockers have relatively new MOOG joints in them, I had an issue with the passenger side pushing the threads out, so it was tightened and tacked. Needless to say, I'm not trilled with the arms I have at the moment.
  
  
• Sway bar[s]. I have an OEM front sway bar, adding a rear would likely be worth upgrading. With the increase in torsion bar rate and perhaps some adjustable dampers, I may not dive into a front bar just yet.
  

Metal-work
As far as the K-member itself goes. I've been told to look it over for cracked welds, perhaps finishing up some factory welds as well. I am not aware of any areas that are prone to flexing around, does the steering box generally need any more support?

I will also be welding in some LCA reinforcement plates.


I hope I have most of the bases touched, I would like to have some input on which path to take on various parts for my budget/use.

Thanks!

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For the tie rods, upgrade to larger diameter (11/16"?)is available from the parts store. I believe you are looking for later 70's C parts (eg Dodge Monaco). Firm Feel, Mancini and others also offer these.

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This was a really good thread on the welded K-member.

https://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/show...rt=all&vc=1

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I agree....

Since then the Charger feels more solid than ever. My goals were to equal the steering and feel of a 76 Camaro that I used to own years ago that I'd spent years refining. The GM F body was a great handling car for its time.
The reduction of flex has many benefits. Quicker response, fewer rattles and a more "solid" feel are just a few of them.

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Check for slop in the LCA between the torsion bar socket and main body. See this video that I put together on how to fix it:

http://youtu.be/Nwes-SP8u4w?list=UUqvjc-8llEE-JKNFYw30-NQ

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Yes on all.
Lay some weld around the entire outer edges of the K-member. I personally think alternate welds of about 1 - 1.5" and 1" gaps would be sufficient.

Steeringbox mount def. could use reinforcing/gusseting. I already felt a difference on my Dart after just welding one simple plate on the mountingpad.
Think of it as it needs better sideways-supporting as the box counterreacts to the steeringlinkage and tires.

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There is nothing wrong with the B-body knuckles. On a more serious build I'd switch to the FMJ knuckles since they are lighter, but you probably wouldn't feel the difference.

The 11.75 setup works just fine but it is super heavy. DoctorDiff might have something in the brakes department that can save a little weight.

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This was a really good thread on the welded K-member.

https://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/show...rt=all&vc=1

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Just a few comments.

For the T bars, you need more than .9". What is "right" is application dependent and heavily debated. I like my 1" bars. 1.1" sounds good also and needs high end shocks to control. Budget?

On front suspension part questions, do you know your current alignment? The new aftermarket UCA's can help increase positive caster and negative camber if you need it. Otherwise your stocker's should be fine.

For the strut rods, in part it depends on LCA bushings and tolerance's on the K. Rubber bushings will help hold the LCA in place and stock rods will work OK. With poly LCA bushings, adjustable rods may be needed to keep everything in place. Stock rods are out there (I have a set) and also may be re-popped.

For the tie rods, upgrade to larger diameter (11/16"?)is available from the parts store. I believe you are looking for later 70's C parts (eg Dodge Monaco). Firm Feel, Mancini and others also offer these.

The other consideration is the Chassis. Frame connectors help a lot, especially with stiffer T bars.

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I'll drop those LCA plates in the mail since I forgot to bring them with me last weekend.

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• My 0.9" bars will likely be going for 1.1" bars, from what I see that is the common upgrade diameter/rate for E-bodies. Brand? Mopar Performance? Other?
  
  
  I've got the 1.22" and I like them. I found mine on sale when there were no other options.
  
  
• My original strut rods are toast, bent up, chewed up threads, they'll be going. I would imagine there are aftermarket upgrades to reduce longitudinal compliance in the LCAs over what the factory was able to get done. Brand recommendation?
  
  Firm feel, Hotchkis, any will do.
  
  
• The car has Cordoba 11-3/4" slider brakes on it, with the late B-body knuckles. I have to go back and check, but I think those are not the ideal knuckles to be running.
  
  I think they're fine for now, the next step up is to find a factory drum spindle and go with a 11.75" c body with a viper caliper from dr diff. About $600...but there are also $800-1200 kits that use a better caliper and 13" rotor.
  
  
• LCA pivots, I see Hotchkis has some greasible units, worth the money? Someone else?
  
  I've got firm feel pins with poly bushings.
  
  
• Tie rods, my stockers are worn out and need replacing. The $350 ones Hotchkis has are sure nice, but I will have to look at DIYing those with some 5/8" rod ends, 4130 tubing and tube adapters. I could likely TIG a set of those up pretty quickly.
  
  
  I like the C-body tie rod ends and sleeves on a budget. That's what I've got.
  
  
• UCAs - Worth replacing? My stockers have relatively new MOOG joints in them, I had an issue with the passenger side pushing the threads out, so it was tightened and tacked. Needless to say, I'm not trilled with the arms I have at the moment.
  
  I would splurge on a set of Hotckis tubulars if you can't reuse your originals
  
  
  
  
• Sway bar[s]. I have an OEM front sway bar, adding a rear would likely be worth upgrading. With the increase in torsion bar rate and perhaps some adjustable dampers, I may not dive into a front bar just yet.
  

I like hellwig for the dollar. Hotchkis is a close second.

Metal-work
As far as the K-member itself goes. I've been told to look it over for cracked welds, perhaps finishing up some factory welds as well. I am not aware of any areas that are prone to flexing around, does the steering box generally need any more support?

Lots of welding and guessting. I would use the firm feel kit.

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Thanks Alex, I'm working on my shopping list.



I got the K de-gunked with a pressure washer. I'll work it over with a cup brush and work on some gusseting next week.

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Be carefully with the dimple dies , They could distort things...?

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For the T bars, you need more than .9". What is "right" is application dependent and heavily debated. I like my 1" bars. 1.1" sounds good also and needs high end shocks to control. Budget?

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For the T bars, you need more than .9". What is "right" is application dependent and heavily debated. I like my 1" bars. 1.1" sounds good also and needs high end shocks to control. Budget?

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Why would stiffer T-bars need better shocks? I know everything should always have the best shock in the budget, but is there an actual need for a superior shock if the front spring rate is serious?

So far my 70 Challenger's budget is looking like VERY serious T-bars (best available) and not much better than stock range shocks. We cant all afford Bilsteins. I NEED to buy T-bars (mine are 6-cyl), and i'm not buying them twice. I'll upgrade shocks down the road when funds allow.

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