Project : Violent Valiant

Why wouldn't an AAR scoop that is modified also work like along the same lines as the cowl induction hood but the AAR scoop facing forward????

64 Wedgie scoop would work but I'm partial to those.

I dont care for the 6 pack scoops on anything other than a A12 car. A scoop than flows well with the older lines like a 64-65 SS scoop gets my vote too. If its possible no scoop at all would be my first choice.

i cant find and 64 valients, but here is a 64 baracuda with cowl....i think a cowl like this, but 1 inch shorter and perhaps 2x as wide would look really cool. kinda like a low bulge basically the whole middle of the hood.




here is 64 valiant/or dart? with the early style scoop (not sure what its called)


65 baracuda with aar style scoop

here is 64 barracuda (similar lines) with hood scoop like the one OP has rendered

now that i think of it a vented bulge hood like on a mustang would look nice too.

I think with the hooked flair line on the fornt fender, an AAR style hood would blend in well and look right at home.

I spoke to these guys just to see what the suspension saw going to be this will be a purpose built race car not much mopar left

Still all mopar here. But the same type of build.

A shot from thr rear.

Two observations, if I may:
1. If it's a high-speed car, I'd be VENTING the hood rather than adding a scoop.
2. Hot-rod fabricators are one thing, but a real racecar fabricator is better for a car that will actually race. There's one such guy in Santa Clarita: his stuff runs at the front, is spot-on out of the box, and I trust the guy with my life.

With the proliferation of television car builds that are style over substance, combined with the number of people willing to throw six figure builds at a fab shop, I'm really not surprised by the number of shops popping up that can cut and weld metal, pop suspension points into a geometry program and say they build cutting edge cars.

I agree with topside, if you want to build a race car go to a race shop.

Greetings! My name is Kevin Tully, and I own Hot Rod Chassis & Cycle. I was browsing around the web, and see that someone posted our build on here. Cool site, and glad to meet you all. I thought if some of you wanted to ask questions during the build, I'd be happy to answer them. Reading many of the posts, I'd like the say thanks for the many kind words.

I'd also like to address some of the comments. Building race cars of just about any type often involves updating the suspension, or modifying the car almost entirely as far as the chassis goes. And we aren't just a hot rod shop. I'm a military aircraft fabricator by trade. That being said, EVERY car we build I ensure to the best of my ability that the person life is safe. Safety is paramount in our shop. We no longer build mild steel cages (and haven't for almost 8 years) because of that. When we observed SFI/NHRA making mild steel cage times slower and slower, we made the decision to pass on those jobs for that time on. Every stick car we build gets a Quicktime scatter shield. They all get drive shaft loops, often front and rear. And many other safety features most builders don't put in an average street car. And for racing, I apprenticed under Mark Constantine at Autofab Racecars in Maryland after I got out. We regularly built cars to dipped into the 5's there. I also built the 2009 World Fastest Nostalgia Super Stock, a legit 1963 Plymouth Savoy Factory Super Stock called "Keep'n The Faith". It no longer runs super stock springs, but a pair of ladder bars and a full race 9" that I also fabricated and used Moser Engineer guts in. We regularly build 8-10 sec dragsters, many of which may look like hot rods, but are full on dragsters. Psycoholic (a 1930 Model A Tudor), The Two Timer (a '32 Ford Pickup), Maximum Evil (a '27 Ford T Coupe), The Hot Rod With No Name (a '31 Ford Model A Coupe), and many others, to include a land speed chassis. We're currently working on a '33 Dodge Coupe with a stroked early Hemi, and a '34 Chrysler Coupe that will run an injected, stroked 440. Both are street strip cars that sport ladder bars.

We've been in business for 10 years, so I'm not sure about "popping up." Everyone's shop has a starting date. Some open a shop to fill a need in an area. Some because of a current craze. Some because someone is crazy enough to open a shop (trust me, running a small business with our current government and the economy is a no light task).

I appreciate all the suggestions on the hood scoop. We wanted to stick with a MoPar hood scoop, but needed one that would enclose the required injector stack height. Trust me, I would love to have used the AAR scoop. It's one of my favorites, and would tie in the Tran-Am feel nicely. But, the Six Pack scoop fit that bill. As for not running a scoop facing forward, many forms of racing use a forward facing hood scoop. Drag racing, land speed, road course. Above say 120 mph, you do have to vent the scoop. If you look at most cars using a hood scoop, you'll find vents in the air pan at the back to prevent over-pressuring the scoop. This will have the same design.

As for receiving donated parts and then "selling them" to the customer to rake in money, I think not. If you ask around, we are one of the most honest shops in our area. I was raised with the Golden Rule and a yard stick. Never, in my life, would I receive a donated part from a manufacturer, and then nefariously sell it for money. And, as anyone in the industry will tell you, that's a quick way to burn all your bridges at once.

Badging, or decaling a car. Well, you see that in every form of racing back to the start of speed parts just about. And it was no different in Trans-Am. Manufacturers want people to know who's parts are on your car, and the decal is a trade. You're advertising their product, and they give you one to use. It's that simple. Other than the shop name, all the other badging are decals that will eventually be removed after a few years of racing.

On the "no MoPar left" comment, how much is none? We'll be using a 440, 2010 Charger Police Pursuit brakes, '64 Super Stock seats (yes, real ones), Legendary is making us an OEM interior kit, 6-Pack hood scoop, '64 Barracuda turn signals, we're keeping the stock steering column and all the trim, etc, etc. I would dare say that many of our favorite Dodge and Plymouth dragsters or land speed cars (like Blowfish) used as much MoPar as is safe, and the rest became fabricated.

Our whole goal here wasn't to bolt on aftermarket parts and go see how well we could do. The goal is to barge into the heavily dominated by General Motors, Autocross and Road Race challenge events. And the cars we're going after are far from being warmed over stock GM cars.

We hope many of you are happy to have someone willing to champion MoPar into a field dominated by the General. And will follow the build and enjoy it. If any of you are ever in or near Chicago, and you'd like to stop by (even on the weekend) just give us a call. I'd be happy to show you the project (even if it means meeting you on a Sunday).

I still think a more period correct look like a 63-65 Super Stock scoop would blend in way better and still accomplish what you want.

HotRodChassis/Kevin... Glad to see you're in the Chgo area. I've been autocrossing since 1975 with my Challenger... belong to a few different clubs. We need to meet locally... MCACN?

The 72 style dual snorkel A-body scoop is a good bolt on piece and they look good on pretty much everything. That said, the area under the scoop does not offer a ton of available space if you need clearance for under hood modifications. The 63/64 Max Wedge scoop is a similar appearing scoop, also a bolt on. These are more correct for the Valliant's vintage, are not overly large on the hood (unlike the same vintage 64/65 Hemi scoop), have more room underneath for clearances, and due to the center support being adjustable, you can "cheat" and adjust the center high up or down for clearance or function. They are available from multiple vendors as fiberglass, steel, and aluminum reproductions (all originals were aluminum) the metal versions are hand made, very nice, pricey, and have lengthy lead times, but are worth it IMO.

Here's one on an A-body (super cool Max Wedge equipped 71 Demon!). Check out the full story, some great pictures too! Mr. Norms Demon Max Wedge

Kevin... I've had my car on display at MCACN in 2011, but not on display this year... maybe again in a cpl yrs.

welcome hotrodchassis ! do you have any pics of the rear driveshaft loops you have installed on say, a 4 link [dana 60 perhaps] ?

I can tell you that Kevin Tulley and his crew do some amazing work. I have had the pleasure of hosting several of his past builds at several shows, including past MCACN shows. Quite simply...he gets it and his name or his shop name does not go on anything that is not of utmost build quality.

Bashton
MCACN Managing Member
www.mcacn.com

http://bangshift.com/blog/project-violen...t-arriving.html

Cool!

Interesting choice to utilize the big block engine? Any insight as to why a big block over a small block in the early A body chassis?

Update ?

I am pretty sure if you go on the bangshift link posted eariler they are doing weekly updates on this build under the Mopar projects pages.
I have been to Kevin's shop quite a few times in the last 2 years as we are collaberating on a project for one of our customers and without a doubt they do outstanding work!!!
The level of metal craftsmanship is unrivaled. For anyone that loves awesome street rods you need to go their website and check out some of their other builds also. The Cosmic Outcast is unreal.
Many may remember the GTO they built that was for Raybestos a few years ago from Hot Rod TV.
Kevin really is a Mopar guy at heart.
It sure is nice to see a Mopar that will be able to compete with many of the other brands in these autocross events that are so popular today.

Mark

http://bangshift.com/blog/project-violen...-continues.html

Sorry I haven't been on here for a while guys. With FB, our blog, website, working in the shop, email, etc., the internet could be a full time job.

We've got the car on the ground and I just finished installing the front frame rails yesterday evening. I'll be slinging the motor in tonight, and then it's on to the front suspension. We're having a Cabin Fever Movie Night on Saturday Night at 6p and showing "LeMans" with Steve McQueen if any of you guys are local enough to attend. You can see the Violent Valiant first hand.

Here's a shot of the rear section of the cage completed.

Join us at the shop to watch a great movie, videos from Road America, and anything else we can come up with. Bench race, tell lies, and share fellowship with gear heads from all genres of racing. Pro-Touring, Drag Racing and Trans-Am will all be represented.

Jimi Day from FM3/Optima Batterieswill be on hand to give a short presentation about the all new Ultimate Street Car Association. Safety equipment, fees, etc. will be presented for your edification.

BYOB, $5 for pizza and a lawn chair. Get out of the house and hang with some of the most knowledgeable and enthusiastic people from around the country on a cold Winters night.

We'll be showing "LeMans", for the main feature, as well as have home movies and videos playing during the social time before and after the movie.

Hot Rod Chassis & Cycle
59 Factory Road, Addison, Illinois 60101

From this:



To this:

[image]http://bangshift.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/02/unnamed.jpeg[/image]

To this:

Thanks for the invite... I'll try for this Sat eve... may not get there until ~7pm due to an earlier event..

1st Annual Racers Movie Night was AWESOME. Got to meet MoPar Mitch and hear about his awesome Challenger T/A. Lots of history here. He brought some really great photos of it too from over the years. If you guys haven't seen his car, you should.

Kevin -- Thank YOU for hosting the evening.. your 10th year in business and the 1st Annual open house -- isn't that what you referred it as? Your shop is awesome and 1st class -- very impressive! The group of people who attended were all friendly, and the movies and food was most appreciated.

Jimi's presentation on the USCA (Ultimate Street Car Association) racing series was excellent!!! I hope to attend a couple events (Road America, Michigan Int'l and Gateway/StLouis are possibilities, even if its just to watch the wknd's events).

AND... your Valient is on its way to be one of THE fastest USCA cars in the country... best that its a MOPAR .. or no car!

Thanks for your advice on potential future work on my Challenger - I know you're an expert is such chassis work. I'll see you again, soon!

http://bangshift.com/blog/project-violen...-installed.html

looks awesome! would love to hear it fire up!

Hey guys. Sorry I haven't been on here in a while. Running a business, trying to keep up with all the sites, I have a new son, and slaving away to get the Valiant done for the Summer, etc. You guys get the picture. I'm posting a link to all the updates on Bangshift.com, and I'll try to get some unique photos up on here this week.

http://bangshift.com/category/general-news/project-cars/mopar-projects/

Just a question, looking over your partially installed cage, I noticed over the past few years SCCA? rules now state the main roll bar diagonal should be a one piece tube, and the horizontal harness tube is OK as two pieces, I have done it in the past like you did, any comments, and why would it really matter much anyway?

I wasn't aware of that. As an engineer, I'm not sure what difference it would make. SCCA requires that diagonal. NHRA doesn't. The idea that the main hoop would skew laterally in a crash with the back bar and #7 & 8 bars in place is pretty amazing. NHRA uses SFI for testing. I'm not sure who SCCA uses, but I trust SFI to put our blueprints for cages that would survive almost anything, per speed spec.

SCCA I believe makes provisions to protect a driver in the event of being run into by another car. There are a lot of different situations that can come up in a road race that are no issue in drags.