Moparts
Optimizing 11.75 disk questions
Posted By: Rapom65
Optimizing 11.75 disk questions - 08/22/13 06:36 PM
Hi guys, lurker turned participant, 1st post...
Switching over from drag racing to corner carving. Upgrading a much modified '74 Duster's stock disks to 11.75" w/ 2.75" single piston calipers (for now). Intended use 50% street and remainder mix of autocross and road course track days, no class competition at this time. Soliciting recommendations for the following to best meet the above usage:
1) brake pads, not overly concerned about dust
2) pad material in general ref fade, cold/hot performance, disk wear
3) brake fluid
4) opinions of phenolic vs metal caliper pistons
Thanks in advance, looking forward to the discourse on this and many other subjects to come. Ron [
Posted By: astjp2
Re: Optimizing 11.75 disk questions - 08/22/13 07:33 PM
Hawk or ebc pads, phenolic pistons don't transfer the heat to the calipers and fluid, and not DOT5. Tim
Posted By: AlexP
Re: Optimizing 11.75 disk questions - 08/22/13 10:25 PM
I've always wondered if any mainstream companies make good pads for the pin/slider calipers. I've got Firm Feel Carbon Metallic on mine, and when I bought them in 2005 I thought they were the best out there.
Posted By: jcc
Re: Optimizing 11.75 disk questions - 08/22/13 10:30 PM
The biggest bang for buck in decreasing order but all very important IMO.
1. Proper pads for application
2. "fresh" high temp fluid, the emphasis is on FRESH
3. Any, even the most hokey, even temporary brake ducting.
4. Fronts are everything when you start out, backs working well get you into trouble
You can't/won't drive fast if you in the back of your mind are wondering, is this thing going to stop?
Posted By: BigBlockMopar
Re: Optimizing 11.75 disk questions - 08/22/13 10:36 PM
On my homemade setup I've put some older brakepads I found on a '77 Charger, thinking they would be probably be still made from the 'good stuff'... They certainly didn't 'look' organic but have a full horizontal groove running across them.
But eventhough brake force feels pretty good on the car, it seems the pads mostly 'polish' the rotors to a mirrorlike shine, instead of actually digging in to them a bit.
I would be willing to try a set of modern brakepads to see/feel if that makes much difference.
Posted By: TC@HP2
Re: Optimizing 11.75 disk questions - 08/23/13 03:31 AM
Probably not a lot of choice in pad materails and even if there was, usage will dictate compound. A good high temp race type pad is going to be uncomfortable being used on the street. Standard off the shelf semi-metallics are probably fine for your apps.
I agree with jcc's list. Fresh fluid is a biggie. There are any number of good performance fluids out there, Castol LMA, Red Devil, Wilwood, Afco, Ultralite that have high wet adn dry boling points without messing with incompatible DOT ratings. Fresh air is also huge.
Posted By: AlexP
Re: Optimizing 11.75 disk questions - 08/23/13 05:16 AM
Ill be going with Superblue or castrol rb600. I used the castrol on my Gti and really liked it.
Posted By: Rapom65
Re: Optimizing 11.75 disk questions - 08/23/13 05:17 AM
Thanks for all the responses everyone. I've read every thread in this forum (and other sites) forwards and backwards trying to glean a consensus opinion but it seems guys are running a lot of different pads. Semimetalics seem to have more of a following.
I too agree with JCC and will be addressing each of his points in order. Appropriate pad selection was the basis of my original question. As I don't know what is available I was hoping for some input by those who have pushed them to their limits and have weeded out those found lacking.
So, no brand preference on brake fluid so long as it is a quality racing type?
What about phenolic pistons? Lots of posts out there about them having favorable characteristics, except for one: cracking = not suitable for performance use. Interweb nonsense or factual?
AlexP what is your opinion on FF's carbon metalics since you've been running them for quite awhile? Since I live about 6 miles from them and they offer matching rear shoes I was leaning in that direction but I don't want something that wont work well on the street (besides being $160 + tax a full set!!).
Posted By: Mattax
Re: Optimizing 11.75 disk questions - 08/23/13 02:08 PM
You're in a wet environment, so wet boiling is an important feature to compare when deciding. I personally have had longer street life with Valvoline's 'synthetic' or whatever they call it now DOT3/4 than with Castrol's LMA. I try to bleed the system every Spring. For track use, bleed at least every season if not before every event (as you would for W2W or time trial).
Autocross does not get the pads hot like a track day. You'll have to experiment a bit for whaich combinations work with your weights and hydraulics. Then there is how much force you are comfotable with and whether you like a brake that is more grabby or more progressive. Some manufactures (like Willwood) will share with you the coef of friction vs temperature. Most lining will have edge code data giving you a rough idea of friction performance cold and at somewhat elevated temperatures.
I have some new old stock rear shoes that are edge coded FE. The F is really good on street shoe or pad. The E is more typical. However FE means that as it gets hot, the friction will reduce and more effort will be required to stop. On a shoe, its a non-linear reduction due to the loss of self assist with the reduced friction. On the other hand, being a rear shoe, it means less chance of rear lock up.
Porterfield is another manufacturer to consider for both street and high speed track pads and shoes.
Posted By: Rapom65
Re: Optimizing 11.75 disk questions - 08/23/13 06:10 PM
Excellent point about the wet environment here in the NW and one I hadn't thought of.
In a post by Tom Quad he showed the Wilwood pad and fluid he runs. At the time I was considering a Wilwood caliper conversion and after looking at the coef of friction/temperature chart for that pad I can see why he likes it so much. It is almost flat (little friction change as the pads heat) all the way to max temp.
Wouldn't it be nice if all the manufacturers would supply that type of info. Sure would help in pad selection.
What about running a more street oriented pad for non track and autocross and having an aggressive dedicated road course set for those occasions? Issues with pad seating?
Posted By: jcc
Re: Optimizing 11.75 disk questions - 08/23/13 07:13 PM
That is really the only way to do it, but you will likely also need a way to readjust the F/R brake bias when changing pad compounds, but any sorted out car wants that anyway
Posted By: 72Swinger
Re: Optimizing 11.75 disk questions - 08/23/13 07:13 PM
I have a set of Hawk HP Plus for track and some stockers for street. No reason to drive around with the rotor wear,dust and noise of the Hawks. The dust is so bad that the wheels are toast after about 20 decent stops. I have Viper calipers so pad swaps add about 10 minutes to the time it takes to get your front tires off.
Posted By: Mattax
Re: Optimizing 11.75 disk questions - 08/24/13 02:40 AM
Yes changing pads (and maybe shoes in the rear) for track is the best. I should have come right out and said that. I've been looking at the compatibility issue and still haven't made up my mind. I was leaning very heavily toward Carbotech's line because they have two materials specifically for shoes. However, there may be some issues with availability and also performance in this application.
From my reading so far, having good transfer of material to the rotor (or drum) during bed-in is more an issue with certain types of material than others. The metalics less so and some of the new ceramics (eg Carbotech and EBC's) very important.
Another supplier I forgot to mention is Rochester Brake and Clutch. That's who TomQuad uses. They don't make production shoes, but will line your pads or shoes with a material they beleive is appropriate. They will also arc the shoe (as will porterfield).
Posted By: Rapom65
Re: Optimizing 11.75 disk questions - 08/24/13 02:56 AM
72 Swinger I'm head over heals in L-U-V with your car. One of a select few inspiration cars for my project.
Time to get some calipers ordered up and get some progress made on this pig.
So far the input has been very helpful.
I need to figure out what pads I want to try on the street 1st, going to be awhile before I'll need a race set.
Posted By: fury413rb
Re: Optimizing 11.75 disk questions - 08/28/13 12:29 AM
I work for Hawk. We make a pad for the 73 caliper.
Posted By: Lefty
Re: Optimizing 11.75 disk questions - 08/28/13 03:21 AM
Quote:
1) brake pads, not overly concerned about dust
EBC yellow stuff or Hawk HPS are the best by far in a street driven car imo. I prefer the yellow stuff, but that's just what I'm used to, not necessarily better.
MOST important is to follow the MFG's instructions for prepping rotors and pad breaking procedure.
Posted By: ahy
Re: Optimizing 11.75 disk questions - 08/28/13 03:22 AM
I run carbon metallic front (disc) and rear (drum). Why? they do reasonably well cold and do well hot for a street compatible pad. Fronts are Corvette pads for Bear Brakes 13" setup and rears are FF. I run similar material F/R so they act similar as they heat up. I believe FF carbon metallic are available for sliders and pin type fronts. As posted above, I understand carbon metallic may take more time to bed in.
Posted By: Rapom65
Re: Optimizing 11.75 disk questions - 08/28/13 03:26 AM
Thanks Fury. I finally made a decision and ordered up some phenolic piston rebuilt calipers from Rock Auto. They have a wholesaler close out on some Wagner severe duty carbon metalic pads for $20 so I figured I'd give them a try and ordered a set.
Posted By: jcc
Re: Optimizing 11.75 disk questions - 08/28/13 03:34 AM
Quote:
Thanks Fury. I finally made a decision and ordered up some phenolic piston rebuilt calipers from Rock Auto. They have a wholesaler close out on some Wagner severe duty carbon metalic pads for $20 so I figured I'd give them a try and ordered a set.
Ah, one item slipped by me, and I can't see where anyone else picked up on it. If your brakes are getting so hot you need a phenolic piston to reduce heat transfer to a high temp fluid, a phenolic is not your solution. Yes phenolics are better insulators, and reasonably strong, but if you have a temp problem with steel/alum, you need a SS or special thermal lock design piston. I would not attempt to experiment with phenolics if stopping is important. please if someone has some different or more info on phenolic hP brake piston use, please share. I would cancel that order.
Posted By: Rapom65
Re: Optimizing 11.75 disk questions - 08/28/13 03:55 AM
No problemo JCC but its too late to cxl they shipped a couple days ago...
Right now I just need to get this pig together so I can get it running and driveable. Lots of stuff to sort out and get adjusted. Really didn't get any response to that question above so I made the decision. Realisticly I don't think I'll be able to out drive these brakes for awhile.
Posted By: TC@HP2
Re: Optimizing 11.75 disk questions - 08/28/13 02:32 PM
If they are inbound, then you might as well play with them. IMO, I don't think you will notice a a difference with them. In street driving, none, in autocross, none, in heavy rood course lapping, maybe if you're out for 15-20 minutes at a time, but ther may be other ways to achieve those results.
Back in my oval track days, we would put 50 hard, short track laps on the brakes using the stock, single pot, factory piston design. By the end of that run, the pedal was getting soft but we never boiled the fluid. I did run Red Devil fluid with the highest boiling point I could afford. I knew of another guy running a thin stainless steel shim between the pad and caliper. However, everybody's braking power was declining at a similar rate, so success in the pack was more dependant upon a driver's ability to adapt to the reduced braking capability than having a much improved system.
Posted By: Rapom65
Re: Optimizing 11.75 disk questions - 08/28/13 06:53 PM
So I take it from the last two posts that phenolic pistons are not the hot ticket for fast road courses. In my case I'm going to be handling limited by my tire/wheel package until I can finish building the car and save up for bigger rims and better tires. Then I will be brake limited. The track I will be running at is fast(Portland,OR)and have been told that any car with adequate power will need big brakes there. However, being a newb at this form of racing, it's probably a good thing to be somewhat limited until I learn the ropes.
Posted By: Jerry
Re: Optimizing 11.75 disk questions - 08/28/13 08:21 PM
being limited is good, but your limiting on the wrong end. brakes is not something i'd limit, cut back on the hp so your not going that fast into a corner.
Posted By: jcc
Re: Optimizing 11.75 disk questions - 08/28/13 08:21 PM
Actually a limited tire might be harder on the brakes in some cases, as you need to brake longer to get your speed down for your cornering limits, guess that also depends on how much available hp you got.
Posted By: jcc
Re: Optimizing 11.75 disk questions - 08/29/13 02:44 AM
Quote:
being limited is good, but your limiting on the wrong end. brakes is not something i'd limit, cut back on the hp so your not going that fast into a corner.
interesting, 2 members saying almost the exact same thing, at the exact same time, differently. 
Posted By: Rapom65
Re: Optimizing 11.75 disk questions - 08/29/13 03:45 AM
What I really am is $ limited. Motor has been built and hanging on a stand for a couple of years while I pecked away at modifying the suspension and chassis. Stuck with 15 inch wheels and tires as I finish the rest of the car. 17 or bigger wheel/tire package is way off in the future, if ever as it looks like the job prospect might have evaporated tonight.
Posted By: 72Swinger
Re: Optimizing 11.75 disk questions - 08/29/13 04:21 AM
The green brick is a shining example of what 11.75 brakes can take. Weight is probably the biggest factor of all.
Posted By: Rapom65
Re: Optimizing 11.75 disk questions - 08/29/13 05:21 AM
Yeh, the Brick is quite a machine. I'm trying to emulate it as much as possible. Not looking to build a super car just a nice low/mid budget handler for fun.
Posted By: jcc
Re: Optimizing 11.75 disk questions - 08/29/13 02:59 PM
Quote:
What I really am is $ limited. Motor has been built and hanging on a stand for a couple of years while I pecked away at modifying the suspension and chassis. Stuck with 15 inch wheels and tires as I finish the rest of the car. 17 or bigger wheel/tire package is way off in the future, if ever as it looks like the job prospect might have evaporated tonight.
Regardless of the money, if you can afford to get the track, as Mitch and others have mentioned numerous times, the driver outweighs nearly every performance part on the car, and the best thing is he can improve immensely, where the rest of the car can only improve slightly from track time. Just lower your immediate goals enough to start getting seat time, the rest will come later, you can even learn a lot with a slant six. Re watch the Bunch video, even with the big hemi, etc, the little cars could hang with him in the corners.
Posted By: Consulier
Re: Optimizing 11.75 disk questions - 08/29/13 02:59 PM
This is probably the latest version of something effectively using 11.75 rotors with the simple Viper Caliper conversion.
Most of the stuff had 6 piston kits. Pad compound makes a huge difference.
Popular Hot Rodding Magazine Muscle Car of the Year Speed-Stop Challenge Results
Travis Hartwell – 1977 Trans Am #1
8.985
Larry Woo – 1968 Camaro #13
9.21367
Danny Popp – 1972 Corvette #2
9.25533
Kevin Wesley – 1970 Plymouth #3
9.36367
Mark Pecikonis – 1968 Camaro #4
9.364
Deb McGilton – 1968 Camaro #12
9.42633
Damon Campbell – 1963 Pontiac Tempest #11
9.51967
Jeff Schwartz – 1981 Trans Am #7
9.53233
Al Noe – 1967 Camaro #9
9.80533
Craig Johnson – 1969 Camaro #5
9.87867
Eric Wracker – 1971 Duster #8
9.88533
Dan Ballard – 1972 Nova #6
9.91633
Paul Van Nus – 1967 Nova II #14
10.2117
Herb Stuart – 1968 Mercury Cougar #10
Posted By: AlexP
Re: Optimizing 11.75 disk questions - 08/29/13 03:03 PM
Quote:
I work for Hawk. We make a pad for the 73 caliper.
Do you have any part numbers for this?
Posted By: PHJ426
Re: Optimizing 11.75 disk questions - 08/29/13 04:07 PM
Kevin,
Is that a B body or C body 11.75" disc, slotted and dimpled from which vendor?
What pads are you running on the front doing that kind of stopping? What size M/C, rear brakes?
Thanks.
Posted By: Supercuda
Re: Optimizing 11.75 disk questions - 08/29/13 04:16 PM
Geez Kevin,
You are probably one of the top drivers I know, so it might be a case of the driver being better than the brakes here.
Posted By: Consulier
Re: Optimizing 11.75 disk questions - 08/29/13 04:19 PM
Quote:
Kevin,
Is that a B body or C body 11.75" disc, slotted and dimpled from which vendor?
What pads are you running on the front doing that kind of stopping? What size M/C, rear brakes?
B body disc, no slots or dimples. These are actually the one's Eberg used to sell, so not sure who made them. Just get an American made rotor from the parts store and you'll be fine.
I run Hawk HT-10's in front, the Eberg 1" (I think) master and Dr. Diff Cobra conversion in the rear with Hawk Blue pads.
If you don't like brake dust, don't use my pad specs. If you don't like to warm the brakes first before using them at an event, don't use my pad specs. I will say that I have well over 100 autocross runs and a couple track day on the pads and they have at least 50% life left in them.
Posted By: Consulier
Re: Optimizing 11.75 disk questions - 08/29/13 04:20 PM
Quote:
Geez Kevin,
You are probably one of the top drivers I know, so it might be a case of the driver being better than the brakes here.
Just did a 2 day tire test at Tire Rack and we used their test driver. Same results, he loved the brakes.
Posted By: Consulier
Re: Optimizing 11.75 disk questions - 08/29/13 04:26 PM
Just finished a tire test for Hot Rod and Tire Rack. 7 different tires tested in 275/35/18 over 2 days making over 70 autocross laps. This will be the test to watch for 200 treadwear tires.
Posted By: 72Swinger
Re: Optimizing 11.75 disk questions - 08/29/13 04:44 PM
Huh I bet the ones you're bolting on in the bottom photo won. I love to see that 4 door killin those PT guys. That seriously warms my heart and if I could I would give you a big hug, or maybe just settle for a high five lol, no homo, anyway, way to fricken go mang!
Posted By: AndyF
Re: Optimizing 11.75 disk questions - 08/29/13 04:57 PM
The Viper on 11.75 front system works pretty well when coupled with DoctorDiff's rear disc brake setup. The brake bias should be fairly decent for a B-body car also.
One thing that would've made that kit even better is if I'd had gone ahead and tooled up a 1.25 thick version of the 11.75 rotor. Then there would've been more rotor mass and we could've eliminated the pad spacers. But there wasn't enough money in the tooling budget to do that.
Cass has developed some additional options over the past few years. He was even exploring the possibility of a low cost "Viper" clone caliper which would be much less expensive.
Posted By: Consulier
Re: Optimizing 11.75 disk questions - 08/29/13 06:51 PM
Quote:
Huh I bet the ones you're bolting on in the bottom photo won.
Nope... there is going to be some upsetting of the apple cart very soon.
Can't release any results yet, but I can say that with the winning tire the Satellite averaged over 1.2 g's.
Posted By: feets
Re: Optimizing 11.75 disk questions - 08/29/13 06:58 PM
Quote:
Quote:
Huh I bet the ones you're bolting on in the bottom photo won.
Nope... there is going to be some upsetting of the apple cart very soon.
Can't release any results yet, but I can say that with the winning tire the Satellite averaged over 1.2 g's.
With shoes like that the Imperial might get enough bite to drag the door handles on a curb. It won't touch 1.2 g but might be able to hit .12 g.
Posted By: 72Swinger
Re: Optimizing 11.75 disk questions - 08/29/13 07:51 PM
Quote:
Quote:
Huh I bet the ones you're bolting on in the bottom photo won.
Nope... there is going to be some upsetting of the apple cart very soon.
Can't release any results yet, but I can say that with the winning tire the Satellite averaged over 1.2 g's.
Wow! I was hoping they would test some RA1's and R888's just because. I really like my RA1's but want to know how they stack up to some 200 tw tires. But if you were hitting 1.2's, then I guess its probably a non issue.
Posted By: Consulier
Re: Optimizing 11.75 disk questions - 08/29/13 08:31 PM
Posted By: 72Swinger
Re: Optimizing 11.75 disk questions - 08/29/13 08:34 PM
I'm glad to have you waving the Mopar flag Kevin. I think it is just awesome how well that Taxi runs. Will you ever give up what you're running suspension wise? And are you planning to put a 6.4 in it?
Posted By: Consulier
Re: Optimizing 11.75 disk questions - 08/29/13 08:55 PM
Quote:
Will you ever give up what you're running suspension wise? And are you planning to put a 6.4 in it?
No reason to switch from torsion bars and leaf springs. The feedback from the Tire Rack test driver will second my opinion, more on that in the video when it's released.
Maybe... we'll see what happens this winter. It's coming back in the spring with more power and less weight for sure. Probably running a 295 all the way around as well.
Posted By: 72Swinger
Re: Optimizing 11.75 disk questions - 08/29/13 08:59 PM
What I meant was give up the specs lol. I have no intentions of giving up my stock suspension format either. And I also wanna come back next spring with more power and less weight and try to make it to the Goodguys show in Loveland CO. I am just curious what T-bars you are using as Im sure the rest is Hotchkis. You alignment specs would be cool to know as well, if that is proprietary info I understand.
Posted By: Consulier
Re: Optimizing 11.75 disk questions - 08/29/13 09:30 PM
Quote:
What I meant was give up the specs lol. I have no intentions of giving up my stock suspension format either. And I also wanna come back next spring with more power and less weight and try to make it to the Goodguys show in Loveland CO. I am just curious what T-bars you are using as Im sure the rest is Hotchkis. You alignment specs would be cool to know as well, if that is proprietary info I understand.
I've had a couple people ask about all the specs. I'll try to start a new topic with the details. Nothing secret, that's for sure.
Posted By: TC@HP2
Re: Optimizing 11.75 disk questions - 08/29/13 11:01 PM
Or maybe post it in the registery pinned at the top of the forum...
Posted By: PHJ426
Re: Optimizing 11.75 disk questions - 08/29/13 11:32 PM
Would you consider your Hawk pads as track only application and would use a different set of pads in town cruising and leave the Hawks for the high speed driving events at the tracks?
Posted By: Consulier
Re: Optimizing 11.75 disk questions - 08/30/13 03:47 AM
Quote:
Would you consider your Hawk pads as track only application and would use a different set of pads in town cruising and leave the Hawks for the high speed driving events at the tracks?
I just leave them on and have no problems in town. If you are anal about your wheels you will want to change them out.
If you do change them, change pads and rotors as a set. I believe Hawk has some details on their site about pads needing time to bed themselves into the rotors.
Posted By: 72Swinger
Re: Optimizing 11.75 disk questions - 08/30/13 03:51 AM
Quote:
Quote:
Would you consider your Hawk pads as track only application and would use a different set of pads in town cruising and leave the Hawks for the high speed driving events at the tracks?
I just leave them on and have no problems in town. If you are anal about your wheels you will want to change them out.
If you do change them, change pads and rotors as a set. I believe Hawk has some details on their site about pads needing time to bed themselves into the rotors.
Damn, I ran Hawk HP-plus at the track and the dust was to much on the street so OE's are back on. Didnt know about the rotor thing. Guess I could try to find some cheaper china SRT rotors for the street.
Posted By: Consulier
Re: Optimizing 11.75 disk questions - 08/30/13 03:59 AM
The chrome wheels used for testing had to be wiped down after every 4 laps to give you an idea about how much they dust.
My aluminum Weld Wheels will actually rust after an open track event if you don't clean them right away.
Posted By: ThermoQuad
Re: Optimizing 11.75 disk questions - 08/30/13 10:18 PM
You need ducted air on the rotors.
Preferably all 4
Posted By: brads70
Re: Optimizing 11.75 disk questions - 09/01/13 08:15 PM
Cool stuff Kevin, thanks for sharing!
Posted By: brads70
Re: Optimizing 11.75 disk questions - 09/01/13 08:24 PM
Quote:
The Viper on 11.75 front system works pretty well when coupled with DoctorDiff's rear disc brake setup. The brake bias should be fairly decent for a B-body car also.
One thing that would've made that kit even better is if I'd had gone ahead and tooled up a 1.25 thick version of the 11.75 rotor. Then there would've been more rotor mass and we could've eliminated the pad spacers. But there wasn't enough money in the tooling budget to do that.
Cass has developed some additional options over the past few years. He was even exploring the possibility of a low cost "Viper" clone caliper which would be much less expensive.
FYI I'm using the 73 C-Body rotor/spindle and Viper calipers and it's 1 1/4" thick. Works good no spacers required. Currently using EBC yellow stuff pads up front and what ever Cass provided with his rear disc kit. I'm going to change out the rear pads to "yellow stuff" pad as well because when the pads get hot the rear pads do not work so well and when cold visa versa.( not a good match! 
)
Posted By: DoctorDiff
Re: Optimizing 11.75 disk questions - 09/02/13 01:22 AM
I actually have a new front brake kit that uses 11.75" x 1.25" C-body rotors and Viper calipers on B/E body drum knuckles.
Posted By: Dan@Hotchkis
Re: Optimizing 11.75 disk questions - 09/02/13 04:55 AM
Quote:
I've had a couple people ask about all the specs. I'll try to start a new topic with the details. Nothing secret, that's for sure.
Should be my old 1.18 Bars right?
Posted By: Consulier
Re: Optimizing 11.75 disk questions - 09/03/13 01:32 AM
Quote:
Quote:
I've had a couple people ask about all the specs. I'll try to start a new topic with the details. Nothing secret, that's for sure.
Should be my old 1.18 Bars right?
Nope, still 1.06 this year. Couple things didn't get done as planned.
Posted By: Dan@Hotchkis
Re: Optimizing 11.75 disk questions - 09/03/13 02:14 AM
Oh man, don't let the "big bar" guys find out we can get Mopars to handle this well on such "small" bars. Their entire universe may come undone.....
Posted By: TC@HP2
Re: Optimizing 11.75 disk questions - 09/03/13 02:45 PM
IT's all about the formula. I get the same roll couple with .96 T-bars and a 1.25 solid sway bar as I do with 1.22 t-bars and 1.125 solid sway bars. Throw some tubular sway bar calculations in there I might be able to run what appears to be some massive sized components without upsetting the balance.
Posted By: fury413rb
Re: Optimizing 11.75 disk questions - 09/04/13 05:36 AM
Quote:
Quote:
I work for Hawk. We make a pad for the 73 caliper.
Do you have any part numbers for this?
HB643F.595 for HPS
Posted By: Supercuda
Re: Optimizing 11.75 disk questions - 09/05/13 02:53 AM
Quote:
Quote:
Quote:
I work for Hawk. We make a pad for the 73 caliper.
Do you have any part numbers for this?
HB643F.595 for HPS
That's the pin type, got any for sliders, 73 and up?
Posted By: 375inStroke
Re: Optimizing 11.75 disk questions - 09/09/13 08:10 PM
I've boiled brake fluid before. Could feel it gurgling in the caliper. There's a DOT 5.1 fluid that is the same formula as DOT 3 and 4, not silicone, but has the same higher boiling points as DOT 5. We didn't have ducts at that time, but with them, the car is much better. I'd go for cooling ducts to fix your problem. DOT 5.1 is just a band-aid. The Hawk blue worked great for us, but lasted 28 hours, so we had to swap them out for parts store crap, and there was no comparison. I'm wondering how one is supposed to bed the pads in at the track, though, when the race is going on.