looking for some suspension recommendations

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I am not trying to make this an autocross car by any means, just upgrade the ride.

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A few problems I see are stock small block 40 year old torsion bars and sway bar coupled with new super stock springs in the rear.

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with a 325/50/15 rear tire and stock size front tire.

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Tires:
This is one of the most important limiting factors. Front to rear Weight, roll centers, pavement type are all up there, but the buck stops here. Stock was what? An F70D15 Goodyear crossply? My guess is that's not quite what you meant But maybe a 225 70 R15 BFG Radial TA ? On dry pavement, a front tire more closely matched to the rears with wider contact patch would be the best starting point. The decision on tires should come before the decision t-bars.

Torsion Bars Part 2:
With the front tires you currently have, I would go to the largest factory sizes, probably around .92" diameter, but not into the 1.0" bars. The stiffer the front bars, the more the front of the car will understeer. Front heavy, big rear tires, the car is already well on the understeering side of neutral - at least on dry pavement.

If you go to a more matched set of tires, and have some serious stick and bite in the front, then sure a 990 on up bar could be helpful.

Sway Bar:
Agreement here. If you want to reduce the roll a bit, then polyurethane the bushings and links and consider one of the aftermarket bars. In fact you might even consider a soft rear bar - did the factory offer anything for these cars? That would be worthy of consideration by increasing the roll stiffness but not increasing the front push. A step by step approach would be poly the stock front bar. Then add factory rear bar. If the back feels loose in any way on the highway wet, go to bigger front bar.

Shocks:
Can be a help if they really are good. If you plan to drag race, maybe look at Speedway or local shop than can hook you up with shocks that can be adjusted to something like a 90/10 and then back to 50/50 for street use. I've seen 'em but never dug into fit and availability for one of our cars.

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Will the super stock springs hurt me? They are in the upper hole allowing the car to sit as low as it can with them.

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You just looking for a original type ride with crisper handling?

Maybe just R/T 440/Hemi T-bars, front sway bar, and front end aligned for 2-3 degrees positive caster.

See if you like that. Then it's an easy bolt on for Bilstein RCD shocks.

The stiffer the front T-bars, less weigh transfer lauching the car at the drag strip. Same with the handling shocks.

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Thanks for all the info. Ok here goes. I would love to buy the TVS kit from Hotchkiss, but not in my budget and actually far above my goals! The car does have subframe connectors. I have stock replacement front shocks and shocks mopar sells w the SS springs in the rear. The car drives ok but feels like there is extra roll in the front. I really am just looking for original or slightly better handling. I may do the shocks, sway bar torsion bar deal. I will likely call Hotchkiss and see how I do with those pieces.

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Ok. What do you not like about the .96 bar that you liked about the larger bar.

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IMO ( I'm no expert) but Mopars have always been "sprung" way to light. I was a little chicken to try a bigger torsion bar due to the cost but Mopar-Mitch convinced me to try a bigger bar and I'm not disappointed in the least. I didn't want a race car ride, something that I needed a kidney belt to ride in 1.120" is not rough at all! Regular street cornering is night and day! Our family Chevy suburban could out handle my Challenger on regular streets before the swap Between the torsion bars and the sway bars it took most of the "push" in the handling.

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OT: An A-body t-bar is shorter than an B/E body t-bar.
Both length and diameter factor into the spring rate.
A b-body bar of the same diameter will have a bit lower spring rate.

On topic:
I realize all of that Mattox, that is why I pointed out the rate. Closest bar to that rate is a 1.12 in a B/E body. BFG T/A radial suck on anything.

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OT: An A-body t-bar is shorter than an B/E body t-bar.
Both length and diameter factor into the spring rate.
A b-body bar of the same diameter will have a bit lower spring rate.

On topic:
I don't know why you all are insistant this gentleman will be unhappy with his tbar upgrade considering his base and objectives. Take a look at the tires, rear springs and the types of use he has in his objectives. The tbars and swaybar selected will both noticibley reduce the roll he is experiencing. Could it be even higher roll resistance? Sure. But for his combination there are other places to make changes that ought to go with higher roll rate. Plus if some drag strip launches are part of the plan, which it seems to be, then staying on the soft side with the t-bars can be used to advantage.

For a good launch, 90/10 on the front shocks would a useful function. Not many companies offer that with an option to go back to near 50/50 for the street, so that will limit the options. On the drag race forum you may find some people who know off the top of their head. On the rear, it would pay to measure the shock length at reat and at compression and extended as it may not fall in stock parameters any more.

Finally, an alignment that is more favorable to the handling characteristics will make a difference too. Especially if you are going to modern radial tyres that tend to prefer a bit more negative camber than bias and cross-plies. This is true even for general use street tires like the BFG Radial T/A. Set the ride hieghts, a bit negative with the camber, and 2-3 degrees positive caster if you can, and then a very little toe in (static). The higher rear may make it harder to get even 2 degrees caster, but each car is a little different, just do the best you can.

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FWIW I have found that the largest factory big block cop TBars (.96 or .98 I can't remember) work wonderfully on the smallblock version of the same car, and still play nicely with the largest stock swaybars and over the counter shocks. that spells convenience and doesn't break the bank

Yeah, it'll be a bit softer with a big block, but still will be fine to drive. I had the same thoughts about weight transfer. The last thing you want with big horsepower and tires is a car whose front-end won't move. In fact, from a drag race perspective, .96s are thick. it's all about striking a balance, and your personal expectations.

yes, you certainly will be able to feel and see the difference with .96s. No, you won't be winning any corner carving contests. and you may not care about that. I'd definitely try that 1.25" hollow swaybar from FirmFeel, that's on my own list of things to get. This is like "pick my camshaft" - thousand people w/ thousand answers