Posted By: sixpkrt
B Body Sub Frame Connectors - 08/22/12 08:25 PM
I'm in need of recommendations of which sub frame connectors to use for my 70 Coronet.
I've been considering US Car Tool Part # USCT1M1101, since it looks like I wouldn't have to cut the floor, but I'm unsure how rigid these are. (I'm not racing my Coronet, but I do stomp on it occassionally).
The other question is to go with weld in or bolt on sub frames. Like mentioned above, I really don't want to cut the floor, so subs that run below the floor would be best.
Any feed back on best route to go would be appreciated.
Posted By: moparAL
Re: B Body Sub Frame Connectors - 08/22/12 08:57 PM
Check out Auto Rust Technicians
www.autorust.com sub-fame connectors. Reasonably priced $120.00, Mopar guys, built in hole for emergency brake cables, and they hang high (from the pictures).
Posted By: HUSTLESTUFF
Re: B Body Sub Frame Connectors - 08/22/12 09:46 PM
Second the Hotchkis. Their design eliminates the need for torque boxes because they attach to the spring hangers and attach at the front frame rail. Mike
Posted By: Kern Dog
Re: B Body Sub Frame Connectors - 08/23/12 01:50 AM
Rick Ehrenberg has made it clear that he prefers The thickest, boxed type connectors that you can use. The type that are contour cut to match the floorpan look clean, but they are only as strong as their thinnest section.
I made my own for less than $50. I did cut the tops to clear the floor, but REboxed where I cut to maintain stength.
Posted By: sixpkrt
Re: B Body Sub Frame Connectors - 08/24/12 03:36 AM
Thanks for the helpful info. Autorust had the connectors and torque boxes available as a kit. Seemed like the best deal. They should be here by next Wednesday.
Posted By: moparAL
Re: B Body Sub Frame Connectors - 08/24/12 06:32 AM
sixpkrt,
You are welcome. I am going to do exactly what you did, Autorust subframes and Autorust torque boxes kit. Good luck with your project.
Autorust stuff is fine. The torque boxes rock.
Got old MP sfc's and autorust boxes on Black Betty. Didn't have many choices 10 years ago.
Have USCartool sfc's and autorust boxes on Sinnamon. I was gonna use 2x3 steel and cut the floor but got talked out of it. Make no mistake the USCartool stuff is strong as all heck.
UScartools are definitely more work / welding but the end result looks good. The autorust and MP's are basic welded on square tubing. Functional. Maybe not the prettiest.
Anything is better than doing nothing at all.
Posted By: dangina
Re: B Body Sub Frame Connectors - 08/24/12 05:10 PM
Posted By: ChrisUSCT
Re: B Body Sub Frame Connectors - 10/20/12 04:13 AM
Posted By: Explodo
Re: B Body Sub Frame Connectors - 10/20/12 11:28 PM
While it's true that taller ones will be stronger, my US Car Tool connectors are over 2" tall at the SHORTEST point.
Posted By: AndyF
Re: B Body Sub Frame Connectors - 10/21/12 02:20 AM
I covered the topic in my B-body book. I included pictures of various parts from different vendors.
Posted By: MidPenMopar
Re: B Body Sub Frame Connectors - 10/21/12 06:20 PM
Here is a photo of the ones on my roadrunner.
Posted By: DaytonaTurbo
Re: B Body Sub Frame Connectors - 10/22/12 12:06 AM
2x3" rectangle tube, .100 wall. Protrudes through the floor only in the back seat passenger feet area. It sticks up around 1" or so, trim the insulation out from the carpet over top of them, then throw your rug and floor mats in and it's not even an issue. Under the front seats and front passenger/driver feet area it stays under the floor. Cut a slot into the front of the rear sub-frame and the 2x3 tube fits right inside.
