K-Member role in suspension, what can you tell me?

Hi, I guess the more I read here the more questions I have. It seems like the K-Member plays more of a part than just holding the engine, and tying the front end together.

What can you guys tell me about what goes on with this structure?
Looks like it's in a constant state of being pulled and pushed.

I am learning more here every day. Some of the handling and cornering knowledge that I have began with my interest in Camaro/Firebird models back in 1986. Those cars are vastly different, but some principles do apply.
Regarding the K member and it's role, some members here, but not all, believe that some very simple modifications can be made to it to improve the car's handling. Some areas of the K member need to be better supported with better welds and more bracing. These mods are thought to increase durability and steering response.

My , not directed at the op, but my thoughts in general.

Just keep driving around on those un-welded, no steering box reinforced K frames and think your handling is great. But then again one must go test to see what really works. It's an ongoing process and only works if you are paying attention to details. A car's rotation thru the turn or lack of rotation is the final test.

I built a large, heavy, fast flat handling rwd car that steers like a car with rack and pinion and rotates well thru a high speed turn...how's that?...Do you think just frame connectors and spring boxes made that happen?? Hardly, however they do contribute but the welded k frame is the key. Show results not conjecture and theoretical hypothesis.

So let me know what you learned, in the meantime I am going back to the porch and take a long nap in the rocking chair.

Frankenduster summerized the opinion on the situation.

There's a few things to look at in terms of construction; geometry, attachment and integrity.
Since the K's are not all the same, their rigidity is not all the same. When there are problems, they seem to primarily be the steering box mount, and integrity. By the latter I'm refering to seams that were a bit open when welded and things like that.

Since you (the OP) are going to be using this only as a driver, there is little gain to be had here if the integrity is OK. With sticky tires, high rate springs, sway bars etc, then stiffening the chassis becomes important. That said, poor weld joints and highly leveraged steering boxes can be a problem even on street driven vehicles. For example, there were some Dodge vans that had a reputation for having a problem with the steering box mountings.

My only caution to those with much stiffer springs etc is that if the car will ever be used for competition, be aware of the rules. Some sanctioning bodies do not allow seam welding in certain classes. In these cases care should be taken that the welds look to be either factory or acceptable repairs.

And dont think that the K member is the only area that can be improved upon either..

What is that?

Inner fender. To orient you, the blue thing is the top of a front shock.

Is that a tire rub mark

Quote:

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Is that a tire rub mark

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That is why I don't run them. To be low they must go!