Please help me set my timng.

with what was said above (identifying optimum idle setting with the vacuum gauge). Some people determine optimum total advance by using detonation (if you can here it and recognize it, it's pretty obvious once you know the noise). For example, set total timing at 38 and do a test drive with a strong acceleration (warm engine). If it pings, let go of the throttle, back off timing 2 degrees, retry.

Once you know the optimum initial and total timing, you can decide on the curve you will be setting in the E-curve : 25, 20, 15, 10, or 0 degrees, so you'll have to make concessions : if you need 18°, get 20° on the dist and back off initial timing 2 degrees so you can keep total timing where you want it.

You should do all of your testing before you install the E-Curve, it will be easier with the standard distributor. You can also do the testing with the E-Curve in locked out-mode (with start retard).

The E-Curve will make it easier to try different curve angles (check the SMD documentation, it's fairly straightforward). Installing it is not, however, since the distributor itself needs to be advanced a lot (as any fully-electronic setup, it only retards from a maximum advance position, so it needs a lot of advance).

I don't remember how the vacuum advance is set, but you're probably aiming for 10 or rather 15° on a not-too-fast curve.

One thing I must add, though -and the only relevant thing in my post ) : I have a MSD E-curve (right now an expensive paperweight).
I strongly advise you to use Loctite on the rotor screws.
The cap and rotor is the same as most other MSDs.
If the rotor screws turn out and leave on a standard MSD distributor, chances are they won't do much damage (you might be in for a new pickup though).
On the MSD E-Curve, if that happens, say at 6500 RPM on the finish line, you will experience some problems. The screw will fall under the rotor, totally destroy all of the delicate surface-mounted electronic components that are there, and leave you stranded with a very exotic distributor no-one has parts for
(and of course, this will not happen in your backyard, or when you decided to be on the safe side and trailer you car to the strip).

I am OA5599's Dad, I want to thank you all very much for your reply's, very helpful information from all of you. We are hoping to cut off a bit of ET and be more consistant with it, we have cut some satisfying times it just would not stay there, hope this Dist. investment helps out. Thanks again to all you mopar motor heads, and to ALL have a great upcoming Hollidays, Be Safe!

Good stuff here, I will add a couple points;
My 340 liked 15-18 BTDC, but had too much cam and compression(by design)so you should consider this the max. Even good ol' stocker 318s like 5-8 BTDC. If the timing chain is sloppy, even more.
I prefer to time street cars at max vacuum, then back off 2" of vacuum. Example-19" best=17" set.
Going with best vacuum tends to ping and make it hard to start hot. Just my observations over many years.

Thanks to everyone who chimed in. Very good info on this thread. We will see if we can get the car closer to dialed in during the long weekend.

Thanks to all, and I will keep you updated on our progress.



Hey Mods, I didn't find another thread like this on here. Any chance it could go in the archives?

Remember that you can adjust the initial and restrict the advance so you can set the total timing when revved up also Work on the initial first and then shorten up the advance to get the total timing you want when revved up, there both important