I found something I saved that I posted before:
If you are going to a trans brake, the trans must be modified for its use during the build, so now is the time to put it in. For example, drilled oil pressure relief holes in the clutch, drilled case for the solinoid wire, relocated vent, number of front clutch springs, etc.
I don't have any cook book list to give, but here is my 2-cents. A 727 can do 600 hp with very little changes. But some things are nice to have for additional piece of mind or to assure a good part.
- A good valve body (with a brake in your application)
- Check everything for wear (pump rotors, drums, ring rubbing surfaces, etc.)
- Relocate the vent with a brake (plug the front vent)
- All new bushings (just do it now, any refresh maybe not)
- All new thrust washers (cheap insurance)
- Set clutch pack clearances for the application
ex/ 0.012"-0.015" per front disc (0.060" for 5 discs)
ex/ 0.025"-0.035" rear with 4 discs
- Check sprag for wear, at a minimum new rollers and springs
- Bolt in sprag optional, but now is the time to do it
- 3.8 or 4.2 front band servo lever (see valve body instructions)
- Rigid/solid front band (IMO releases better than flex band)
- Babbit converter bushing in the trans pump housing
- Pre-'71 "solid" front servo, or shim the newer oil cushioned servo so it is solid
- Shim the rear servo so the cushion spring is almost solid
There are other "optional" mods on my web site:
http://pages.moparpages.com/440Jim/website/id4trans.html I like the oil passage enlargement mods (ported reaction shaft support between the rings, clutch retainer holes 5/32", 1/16" oil hole to the sprag).