10:1 Mild Stroker 416s - output?

Can you run FAST with a 340 or a 360, umm YES. But to do it, the combination leaves less room for error. ie. The 4" crank motor will be more forgiving to not having the combination dialed in perfectly, and frankly most home builders don't have the time/patience/ $ to keep throwing parts at their car in search of every last .10

I've done both sides of the coin, I've ran 3.58" crank motors for years, and then built a 4" motor. All were street motors. And I can tell you with absolute certainty, that the 4" crank motor was THE best street motor I had, and I did have the ported W2's on a 3.58" right before I did the 4". The guys who badmouth the 4" combo's, I'm, willing to bet have never built one. They are really not that much more $ than building a 340 or 360..... Let's see the cast Crank cost's ~$330 And you probably want to run a junkyard reground 360 crank in your 360 build? OK. There's $50 for the crank and $125 to have it cut .010"/.010" So you've got $175 in a 30 year old Cast IRON crank, VS: $330 in a Brand NEW SCAT 9000 series Cast STEEL crank. OK. I don't think any of these 10 second or low 11 sec 360's are running factory pistons, so they are ponying up the same $490 For forged slugs that the 4" crank guys are doing. And as for Rods, frankly with the price of SCAT H beams these days, if you run stock reconditioned rods in a 475+ HP application, frankly I find it unacceptable. But you want to skimp and save $200 and run a resized, factory heavy rod with ARP bolts, be my guest. Both motors will need balanced. You can't put a light forged piston in a 360 and not re-balance. So there you have it..... you saved ~ $355 on your engine build, and you have a used cast iron crank, and used factory rods, I'm impressed. Oh and don't forget the 5500 Converter and the 4.88 gears you will need with the smaller stroke to get the engine into the powerband.

Yeah I whipped out that Greg Aliano Duster article..... 13.4:1 340,.590" MP Flat tappet, 2.08/1.625" Ported, W-2's, 1 7/8" headers, and of course the complimentary 4.56 gears and 5200 converter. Sheetmetal firewall, no inner fenders.....one of those little moroso add on electric drag water pumps....., oh and don't forget the MT ET Drags.... oh yeah, street car written all over it.

Sorry, You just are'nt going to convince me (or many others) that the 4" cranks are not THE hot setup for a STREET car. You want to talk DRAG motors...... yes, let's drop the stroke to 3.51"-3.79", bolt the big heads on with big squeeze, Wind the piss out of them, 5500+ converters, 5.13 gears, and go run some 9's. In fact, why stop at 9's? Let's do....say a 4.25" bore Siamese R-3, bolt in a custom SCAT 3.71" forged crank, some Carrillo Rods, Custom JE's, .800" Solid Roller, some KILLER CNC W-8's and let's go shoot for the 8.90 zone with a lightened '69 Dart.... Hey wait a minute that sounds familiar....

Posted By: RyanJ

Re: 10:1 Mild Stroker 416s - output? - 08/08/03 09:52 PM

Quote:

Well 13.4 compression is high but alot of the 12-1 motors gotta run good gas so whats an extra point. And seeing as myself and a few other people on this board new Greg Aliano or knew of him the car saw a lot of street use he was a regular at the local burger joints and a frequent racer after hours he lived a good 45-55 minutes by freeway from the areas that we saw him at and not to mention when he got a challenge he would drive another hour into LA to meet his competition. If your gonna build a stroker you cant convince me about the expence TTI 17/8 headers ,950 carb mallory metal fluiddamper heads that flow 270 or upno matter what kind of aftermarket ones they are and the roller cams some of the guys are using too if you already got the big stuff it wouldnt be much more but stating from scratch it will be a lot although a one time expence and your right we or I have not built one nor seen a stroker so all we can go on is time slips and some of the videos on this web sight like scottys duster going 119 on the video so us ignorant ones who havnt seen these motors and they are fresh to the hobby in the last 2 years are looking at timeslips and saying my car or my buddys car ETd or mile an houred better which was my first post question what is it the streetability ,less gear,converter etc cause it appears the timeslips are not far off in most cases .Lot of guys got their feathers ruffled on this one LOL

A little friendly disagreement now and then can be a good thing.

So here goes:

Well 13.4:1 dictates RACE GAS in my book. that is a BIG difference, both in availability and PRICE over a 93 octane pump gas 4" crank motor like say LAR414's. Was he driving that Duster around all the time on true MT ET Drags? If so, I certainly as hell would'nt have wanted to be on the same road with him. I was stupid enough years ago to try to drive a true wrinklewall drag slick on the street, and ever since then, I can't say I can condone it. I'm not personally attacking the guy, but I just think anyone driving true drag slicks on the street is a hazard. DOT slicks like a Hoosier QTP or M/T ET Street is a different story, the sidewalls are much stiffer and from my experience they handle just fine in dry weather situations.

Now about those strokers...

A 1 7/8" TTI header?? Is LAR running one of those? Is Scotty? Is Barracuda340S? Was B3stroker on his E headed motor? NO. All had smaller primary tubes. So you're not going to convince me a BIG header tube is absolutely necessary. IMO for the stock exhaust flange style heads, the 1 5/8"- 1 3/4" Stepped TTI's can't be beat for price VS performance. The 1 3/4" Hooker Super Comps are also a fine header. Only on a really good exhaust flowing head like Weedlayer's E heads that have been Pro ported or a set of Ported W2 or W5 etc. do the 1 7/8" tubes start to shine.

950 carb.... hmm well. This is just a case where the bigger inch motors generally like a bigger carb. HOWEVER.... Again, I'm thinking I have seen some quick 4" crank motors running your old school 750 Holleys. a 4779 750 DP is a darn good carb on just about ANY application.

Mallory Metal???????????? WHY OH WHY does everyone think a 4" crank motor HAS TO BE internally balanced????????????????????????????????? One of the quickest ones on this board, is EXTERNALLY balanced, using a POS 18.1 SFI BHJ external damper..... B3Stroker416W5 YES it can easily be argued that internal balancing is the way to go, but if you are trying to save $, the 4" crank CAN BE EXTERNALLY BALANCED with no mallory metal. Sorry this is just one of my pet peeves so it struck a chord.

Fluidampr? See above LOL. If you don't plan on running 10's and needing an SFI damper, then just run junkyard Sh&t if that is what your bottom end is worth to you.....

Heads that flow 270+? I can pretty much guarantee that LAR's J heads would'nt flow 270 on my flowbench, and I doubt Scotty's would either. Probably both in the low 260's on my bench. Both have unwelded exhaust ports, meaning not great exhaust flow, but yet Scotty has run high 10's at ~121 now with a small solid Roller, and LAR 11.30's with a flat tappet, and a heavier car. TOD Ran low 11's in a much heavier Challenger with J heads. All 3 sets of those heads were never touched by a "pro porter" all 3 were home ported. So saying that huge heads are absolutely necessary is'nt exactly correct. Besides you think Aliano's W-2's flowed less than 270? LOL TOD and Barracuda340S would be two board members who I can think of that pretty much just swapped in a 4" bottom end on their current combo's and both picked up significantly in ET/MPH without touching the heads etc.

As for Roller cams, I havn't seen anybody using anything I would even call "big" on a 4" crank motor yet. As far as the board goes, MOST guys are using fairly mild flat tappets. I can think of the Best Machine 'Cuda running 10.30's with a somewhat mild solid Roller, and Scotty has a solid roller, again, what I'd consider a mild one, in his 416. So as far as the cars on THIS BOARD go, I can't recall anyone going balls to the wall with a 4" crank motor YET. If B3Stroker follows thrugh with his new X block motor, you will see a pretty good one. He is talking about 13.5:1 and a LARGE solid roller, with custom CPs, and a light GM rod. With his W5's, there should be no problem seeing 660-675 HP on Gasoline.

Carl's 416 was a pretty radical 4" crank motor, EXCEPT the heads, but he showed that with enough trick parts even a set of Commandos could run 9.60's and make 660 Horse on a 4" crank. But then again, we are starting to stray into the realm of Drag only engines, which is not what this discussion is about. If you want to talk Drag only SB's let's start another post, and then the Stroke sizes will be getting lower, the RPM's will be alot higher, and the $ will be MUCH higher

Like was mentioned earlier by Comp Chassis, until you actually build or drive a 4" crank motor on the street, you have NO IDEA what kind of torque they can produce. Mine made 517 ft lbs at the rear wheels..... I want to see a 3.31" stroke 340 do that. PERIOD. Let alone be streetable. I'm talking I had 900 RPM idle, the thing never ran over 180* even in August sitting in downtown State College Traffic....Did'nt load up the plugs.... That was a great little motor. Flat tappet cam, lash was never off, started fine in cold weather/ hot weather etc. Probably had a 10.40/50 in it in good air with more tuning @ 3200 weight. And that motor was built using last years knowledge, I know a hell of alot more today than I did then, and there are a few things I would have done different, so that one was nothing special. Anybody on this board could duplicate it easily (and several members are LOL)

And for my final thought, perhaps go back and re-read what you wrote here: "which was my first post question what is it the streetability ,less gear,converter etc cause it appears the timeslips are not far off in most cases"

Tha answer is basically YES. Same ET as your more radical Smaller stroke SB's but MORE streetable, takes Less gear to do it, less converter, etc. Has an easier time handling a heavier car like an E body or a B body etc. etc. etc. For a true street car I'm STILL looking to find ONE downside of a 4" crank motor. All guys can find to [censored] about is piston speed, but unless you are running W-9's and are tyring to run 7200+ RPM, it is really a non issue.

And one last thing, back to the original question from Crazy Pete, about building a 416:

Pete, you can take this for what it's worth, some people think my word is gospel, some people think I'm full of Sh&t... Personally I think I fall somewhere in the middle LOL. Anyhow, I've been building/racing SB Chryslers for 11 years now, I've built 4 340's, ~6 360's, and 2 416" motors and have seen/rode in a bunch of others..... And for your STREET car, if you have the $ to put in a new bottom end, DO A 4" CRANK MOTOR, you will NOT be disapointed. On the street in a car like your's TORQUE is KING..... Only thing I would do to your setup, put a 4" crank kit in it and a new flat tappet cam to take advantage of the extra cubic inches, the 4" motors eat duration @ .050". Your intake is fine, your heads are fine, your carb is ok, your headers will be fine, converter will be fine, gears are fine etc. Have fun.

BTW: don't take this the wrong way, but one of the reasons your car has somewhat dissapointed you up until this point is the fact that it IS a 340 in a fairly heavy A body. 3.31" crank and a heavier car, just don't mix well on the street without a lot of gear/converter

Oh and one LAST sidenote, does'nt it feel like old times to see me posting a HUGE LONG, rambling post about SB's???

It's been a while since I have sat down and hashed one out like this, but "back in the day" when I was 69DartGT360 on the old board, I used to get kidded about the ungodly length of my posts.... Feels good again

Ryan J.

Posted By: patrick

Re: 10:1 Mild Stroker 416s - output? - 08/11/03 05:47 PM

Yes, the stock spring Eheads are good for up to .575 lift at valve. I have 1.5 roller rockers on my engine now. That cam would work out to around .488 - which is what I have in there now. (.488/.510 234/244* ) I dont think it is enough for a 416? Or is it?

It is very streetable in my 340.

However, it did stall out at a stoplight the other night.... was stopped for about 2 minutes waiting for the arrow, and it stalled - fully warmed up - carb idle not high enough maybe? its around 600 +/-

my guess is a cam like that will give ya 12-14" vacuum at idle, maybe more in a 4" stroker combo....with your eheads, I'd look at the new HEH 3742 AL or HEH 4246 AL from hughes...they might even idle more mild than your current cam on a 3.31" stroke does...

Posted By: Anonymous

Re: 10:1 Mild Stroker 416s - output? - 08/11/03 07:00 PM

I pull over 14" of vaccum on my stroker, anything under 240 @.050 .500" is too small for a stroker, unless you want a stump pulling truck motor

Don't even think of using a Hughes cam with stock ehead springs, spend the $160 to respring those heads if you use a fast ramp rate cam like a hughes, it's not all about amount of lift...

Posted By: Kam*Kuda

Re: 10:1 Mild Stroker 416s - output? - 08/12/03 10:50 AM

Quote:

Here is the big difference between strokers and standard stroke small blocks... Streetability. You can put a larger cam profile in a stroker and still have good idle and vacuum. My 240/246 .507/.510 lift cam is fairly mild in my stroker. Remember the increased stroke eats some of the cam duration.

This is what I am hoping for

Same reason here as RUDF1 Streetable power

Here is my build so far.
http://www.moparnuts.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=1915

Comp Cams also suggested their XE 274 for my build.

Posted By: Anonymous

Re: 10:1 Mild Stroker 416s - output? - 08/12/03 11:25 AM

Pete, I think youre leaning in the right direction.

I remember when 74Duster360 stroked his 360 and made NO OTHER changes. I couldn't believe the attitude change in the motor. The 360 with 244@.050 hughes solid cam and 10.8:1 compression wanted to be tached to 6400. The 408 was down to 10:1, made "big blockish" torque (Hi Ryan

) and now was shifted at 6000 rpm at the track for best e.t.. This car had the worst hacked iron heads you will ever see. They were junk. The car was a few hundred pounds lighter than yours and ran more gear but went 11.70's all day.

As much as you street drive the car, and for what your planning on doing I would definately go the stroker route. You wont be spinning it hard so follow Ryans advice and save the money on the internal balance job. Keep the 3.55's until you can find someone to swap you some 3.91's or a good deal on a chunk comes around. I'd look into something like the Comp XE284 cam or maybe the Hughes 3844 hydraulic which is 238/244 @.050 and 536/540 lift or something like that.

Posted By: Crazy73

Re: 10:1 Mild Stroker 416s - output? - 08/12/03 11:45 AM

Quote:

Pete, I think youre leaning in the right direction.

...

As much as you street drive the car, and for what your planning on doing I would definately go the stroker route. You wont be spinning it hard so follow Ryans advice and save the money on the internal balance job. Keep the 3.55's until you can find someone to swap you some 3.91's or a good deal on a chunk comes around. I'd look into something like the Comp XE284 cam or maybe the Hughes 3844 hydraulic which is 238/244 @.050 and 536/540 lift or something like that.

Gary, thanks for the advice.

I was pointed towards either of the following of the fast lifter velocity grinds... They are a little larger, but are also solids.... Dunno if I should stay hydraulic or go the solid route?
HTL 4652 AS .555"/.572" 246�/252� @.050 106� CL
HTL 4852 AS .563"/.572" 248�/252� @.050 106� CL

Looking at the Hughes website for the cam you recommended, the only one close I could find was
HER 3644 AL .533"/.540" 236�/244� @.050 114� CL
Which is a hydraulic roller cam.

If I were to swap to a roller cam, that would entail lots of other valvetrain goodies, right?

I want the swap as hassle-free as possible.

And if I am not spinning the engine as high, why would internal balance be better?

The less $$ I have to cough up, the better

Posted By: Anonymous

Re: 10:1 Mild Stroker 416s - output? - 08/12/03 01:21 PM

Pete, going to a roller is going to cost you $1,000. Even going to a solid flat tappet will be an extra $80 for pushrods. I like solids myself, and if that is what you decided to do, the rule of thumb is to go roughly 6-7 degrees bigger @.050 with the solid cam for the same rpm range. If you plan to keep the power brakes, I wouldnt recommend anything bigger than say 240@.050 with a hydraulic and 245ish with a solid. Thats the ragid edge. And nothing tighter than 108 or so on the LSA either.

IMO, with a street type application (6000 rpm or so), a good newer design hydraulic cam is going to make within 10-15 horsepower of a solid cam of similar rpm range. An apples to apples comparison years ago with my car showed a <a href="mailto:12.19@114[/Email] with the 3844 Hughes hydro and a 12.08 with the 4550 solid..

Here is Hughes new HEH hydraulic that has replaced the old 3844..

HEH 3742 AL INT .548" EXH .555" 237�/242� 108�

I actually like the idea of making your E-heads "work" a little more over the .500 mark because they flow real well up there. I also have to agree with a spring change. Its an easy deal and decent springs can be had for $100 bones.

Posted By: Crazy73

Re: 10:1 Mild Stroker 416s - output? - 08/12/03 01:26 PM

Quote:

Pete, going to a roller is going to cost you $1,000. Even going to a solid flat tappet will be an extra $80 for pushrods... If you plan to keep the power brakes, I wouldnt recommend anything bigger than say 240 @ .050 with a hydraulic and 245ish with a solid. Thats the ragid edge. And nothing tighter than 108 or so on the LSA either.

IMO, with a street type application (6000 rpm or so), a good newer design hydraulic cam is going to make within 10-15 horsepower of a solid cam of similar rpm range. An apples to apples comparison years ago with my car showed a 12.19 @ 114 with the 3844 Hughes hydro and a 12.08 with the 4550 solid..

Ok, the $1k is close to what I remembered when I decided to buy the Ebrocks. It was either the Ebrocks or the roller cam, and I opted for the heads with more potential. It was the right choice for my purposes.

I don't have power brakes, so that's not an issue. Front disc/rear drum. Does that influence a reccomendation at all?

The lower I can shift, the better

Posted By: Anonymous

Re: 10:1 Mild Stroker 416s - output? - 08/12/03 01:39 PM

I edited my above post to show you the new hydraulic cam by Hughes. Take a look at what they have.

As far as the power brakes thing goes, and for my recommendation, no it doesn't change much. There are ALOT of guys that are much better at this than me. I'm just thinking about your current converter, gearing, and the fact that you drive your car so much. All this talk about how the difference between a 360 and a 408 is night and day, well I can tell you this. 340's do not make anywhere near the torque that a 360 does. Now go from 340 to a 414 and you are in for some serious attitude change there buddy. I can only imagine what it would be like to air out such a car/engine combo with 3.55 gears on the freeway.

Posted By: Crazy73

Re: 10:1 Mild Stroker 416s - output? - 08/12/03 06:07 PM

Quote:

I'm just thinking about your current converter, gearing, and the fact that you drive your car so much.

Right, I don't want to redo the whole car, just use what I have and make the most of it. The engine will be redone simply because I dont know it is properly balanced, the pistons are cast (ugh!), it takes a bit of oil (no smoke) and I want to make sure it is done right. Who knows, maybe this 340 has the 4 middle rods installed with the chamfer/squirters on the wrong sides like my old one did

BTW, the 3.55s on the highway are fun now - cant imagine what they would be like with more torque and hp

Posted By: Anonymous

Re: 10:1 Mild Stroker 416s - output? - 08/12/03 07:11 PM

once you get in to the 240 @ .050 / .510" mark with some good flowing heads / exhaust / proper air-fuel, you will be near 500 HP and over 500 ft. lbs. of torque. 3.55's are a great gear ratio for this combo. And even better if you stuff a Keisler 5 speed in there down the road.

Posted By: Crazy73

Re: 10:1 Mild Stroker 416s - output? - 08/13/03 12:52 AM

Quote:

once you get in to the 240 @ .050 / .510" mark with some good flowing heads / exhaust / proper air-fuel, you will be near 500 HP and over 500 ft. lbs. of torque. 3.55's are a great gear ratio for this combo. And even better if you stuff a Keisler 5 speed in there down the road.

I will probably need to beef up my 727 then? (Rated for 450hp) or drive it till it pops?

Posted By: Anonymous

Re: 10:1 Mild Stroker 416s - output? - 08/13/03 02:13 AM

Drive it 'til it pops and then put a stick in it

Posted By: Crazy73

Re: 10:1 Mild Stroker 416s - output? - 08/13/03 03:05 AM

Quote:

Drive it 'til it pops and then put a stick in it

Are the stroker cranks drilled for a pilot bushing?

I know where a nice complete A-body v8 4spd/console/d-shaft/axle is sitting locally, so that wouldnt be a problem.

Course, the keisler 5spd would be oh so much nicer on the highway!

Posted By: Anonymous

Re: 10:1 Mild Stroker 416s - output? - 08/13/03 03:48 AM

I put the roller bushing right in to my crank... No problem.. 5 speed is a big + but I'd take a 3 speed over an automatic any day.

Posted By: Crazy73

Re: 10:1 Mild Stroker 416s - output? - 08/17/03 04:15 AM

Thanks guys!

I printed out all the replies, it's about 40 pages

(and when did we get all these new smilies?

I have been away since Wed)

Posted By: Anonymous

Re: 10:1 Mild Stroker 416s - output? - 09/05/03 08:04 AM

btt

Posted By: 808CUDA

Re: 10:1 Mild Stroker 416s - output? - 09/05/03 09:32 AM

This is a TON of great info. from all you guy's! THANKS!
I am in beginning stages of building a 4" stroker out of my 340 for my '70 Cuda.
I just called Mancini Racing and they tell me for street duty I will NOT need H-beam rods and Forged crank.
Are they just lining me up for their overstocked I-beamed/cast crank combo's or are they true?
He asked me if I plan to do track duty, i told him an occasional blast down the quarter, say once every 2 months on street tires.
How do I drive? I get on it HARD here and there, rolling burnouts once in awhile.
So do I need the H-beam rods? Or do I need at least a forged crank?
He suggested the same as you all did about balancing, external w/ a good balancer.
How about the cam? I know the duration in teh 240 range, but solid or hydraulic?
My 'Cuda I drive daily 8 miles to work, 4 speed (soon Keisler 5 speed) and has manual brakes, no power steering.
What rocker ratio?
What carb to go with?
I want deep 11's, so what specific cam should I go with?
Many thanks from Hawaii!!!
Gil
P.S. Edelbrock heads, TTI headers, Air gap intake are on the way.

Posted By: Crazy73

Re: 10:1 Mild Stroker 416s - output? - 09/05/03 02:04 PM

Quote:

This is a TON of great info. from all you guy's! THANKS!
I am in beginning stages of building a 4" stroker out of my 340 for my '70 Cuda.
I just called Mancini Racing and they tell me for street duty I will NOT need H-beam rods and Forged crank.
...........
So do I need the H-beam rods? Or do I need at least a forged crank?

The H-Beam rods require less notching of the block for rod clearance. If you use the I-Beams you need to notch it more. There are sets of H-Beams on eBay for $319.99 which is VERY cheap. - So it's up to you. Personally I would get the H-Beams.

Cast crank should be fine if you are staying low RPM - i.e. not pushing 7,000 all day long.

Posted By: 808CUDA

Re: 10:1 Mild Stroker 416s - output? - 09/07/03 10:02 AM

Thanks Crazy73!
Any other opinions?
Thanks,

Gil

Posted By: Anonymous

Re: 10:1 Mild Stroker 416s - output? - 09/07/03 01:21 PM

I'm running a cast crank, my machinist says no problem, its a nice piece. I bought Scat H beams for 380 delivered. They were on the money, needing no further machine work, like Eagles usually do. I think they are the same rod (H beam), but the Scats are finished in the US. I am buying a solid roller set up (cam lifters, springs, pushrods) from Bullet Racing Cams, 800 for all, a very good price IMO. if you want to make big power, i feel a single plane is necesary, this isn't a 340 anymore, I am using a Strip Dom, the only single plane with the mounts for a/c. p/b, and plenty extra places for fittings. I'd go with a Demon carb or something like it, the driveablility is much better than stock Holleys. Other than that, go with the best parts you can afford, to avoid doing it again.

Posted By: B3422W5

Re: 10:1 Mild Stroker 416s - output? - 09/07/03 03:11 PM

wow...fascinating reading....

all i can/will add is this there is no substsitute for cubic inches..the more you have the less you have to spin a given motor to realize a certain power level....big motor=less rpm=less maintenance=less getting into thy wallet

Posted By: dezduster

Re: 10:1 Mild Stroker 416s - output? - 09/07/03 03:39 PM

Hey if you build the stroker you will be able to run 12 with 3.73 or 3.55 and not much converter. When I say 4.30s are not great for 50 or any miles of highway I know Ive done the Yugo passin you becouse youre spining youre mill 35 to 3800 rpm at freeway speeds.STROKERS MAKE TORQUE torque moves that ugly "street or highway gear better".
10 to 1 is a pump gas motor easily...
Big cubes in small package is sweet.
If you have the parts you say you have a stroker does not cost as much as many would like to believe..A stroker only needs pistons rods and crank, evey thing else you would need for a non stroker aplication also.Machine work same as non stroker other than the 8 small notches that are easily done by hand at home.Strokers work the nay sayers must not have one or they want one and are scared youre going to get the last one..

Posted By: 808CUDA

Re: 10:1 Mild Stroker 416s - output? - 09/07/03 11:13 PM

Thanks again for the input!
I will definitelytry to spend where it is needed. Just needed to get a vote of confidence on the cast crank.
Thanks again!
Gil

Posted By: Crazy73

Re: 10:1 Mild Stroker 416s - output? - 09/12/03 12:07 AM

Wish me luck, guys!

I will start making calls tomorrow

Posted By: AdamR

Re: 10:1 Mild Stroker 416s - output? - 04/26/04 11:39 PM

just brining a great thread back from the dead.
Anymore thoughts or ideas ?

Posted By: B3422W5

Re: 10:1 Mild Stroker 416s - output? - 04/26/04 11:48 PM

from what i understand,the eagle "i beam"DOESNT require notching of the bottom of the bore,the eagle h beam DOES....

btw..if you are lookig at going low 11's...dont bother with the i beams..get the h beams...crank wise,the cast crank should be fine....but for another 500 bucks,you will never have to worry......just my opinion,but do it right the first time and you will never have to worry.........ask me how i know........

Posted By: BergmanAutoCraft

Re: 10:1 Mild Stroker 416s - output? - 04/27/04 12:09 AM

Talk about airing it out on the freeway, how about an 11.3/410/280cfm-195cfm eddies/255/264 @ 050 roller/BG dp and 2,94s! 135 on Sunday am, Ocean Parkway. Once I get my fuel system worked out, watch out!

Posted By: Crazy73

Re: 10:1 Mild Stroker 416s - output? - 04/29/04 03:20 AM

Quote:

just brining a great thread back from the dead.

Wow, I'll say! 08/06/03 11:07 PM

As of this point in time, I have neither the funds nor the time to go out and purchase parts for a stroker "moder" let alone put it together! I would also need to get subframe connectors, beef up the tranny, scrap the converter, etc. etc. Since I am moving (again) in the next 2 weeks, and only have a spot for one car, the Dart will have to remain elsewhere, and only be taken out once in a while.

It would be soooooooo nice, tho

Posted By: Anonymous

Re: 10:1 Mild Stroker 416s - output? - 04/29/04 11:11 AM

Ok i am currently putting togther a 408 stroker ,Eagle H beams (needed very little clearancing )small notch in each opposing bore to clear rod bolt . (my Eagle rods are great all within .0007 of each other center to center length was all about 6.125).For any thing but an all out race motor i wouldnt wast my money on internal ballance (quoted $750 in Oz to get malory in mine )a quatity ballancer (360 type )and a B&M weighted flex plate then get this assembley balanced works for me( it will only see 6200 rpm ) .I agree with a cam choice of around 240 to 250 @50 (i will run an Engle hyd)10:1 comp single plane manifold and some ported heads . Will be a dream on the steet and strip . My 360 thati am still running is like above and runs 12s @ 109.1 mph in 68 Valiant.

Posted By: Anonymous

Re: 10:1 Mild Stroker 416s - output? - 08/26/04 05:20 AM

hmm

Posted By: Anonymous

Re: 10:1 Mild Stroker 416s - output? - 08/26/04 05:39 AM

Here's mine. Ryan ported my E-heads and I must say this sucker pulls strong through the whole rpm range. If this ever blows I will go with another stroker in a heartbeat. I haven't had it to the trackj yet but............

Desktop dyno claims 497hp through headers and full exhaust.
Here's the specs on the engine:

-360 block .030 or 4.030 bore X 4.00 stroke
-Protru -20cc dish pistons, 10.7 to 1
-.039 head gasket thickness,
-57cc head volume
-Sixpack dual plane manifold port matched with a total of 1350 cfm's through the carbs

-XE284H, Xtreme Energy, Hyd Flat Tappet, 284/296-240/246@50-.507/.510-110 centerline

-Edelbrock Flow #'s
.100"--79.4/58.7
.200"--151.8/118.7
.300"--212.2/168.4
.400"--254.6/200.8
.450"--269.1/212.1
.500"--276.0/219.8
.550"--280.1/221.8
.600"--281.6/225.6
.650"--282.9/225.6
.700"--284.7/225.6

2800-3200 stall speed convertor through a 727
3.91 suregrip
245/60/15 radials

Here's some more stroker builds I saved from a post I had a while back.

http://www.mopar1.us/stroker.html

Posted By: Kam*Kuda

Re: 10:1 Mild Stroker 416s - output? - 08/26/04 01:28 PM

I built a stroker for great street manners and better torque

I was not much more expensive than a standard rebuild.,

Posted By: rt66jim

Re: 10:1 Mild Stroker 416s - output? - 08/26/04 04:20 PM

Mine is a 416 W2's ported by Ryan J. TTI's, 4400 TA, 4:30's. The cam which is probably too big is 272@.050 on a 108 CL and the compression is 11.2. It runs fine on 93 octane. I am currently using an old 750 dp carb. Car weighs 3500 on CAT certified scales. My street tires are 29.5 tall.I can cruise a 60 at 3200/3300 rpm. Car has unbelievable torque. Unlike some here mine wants more than 6500 rpm's. Probably cam related. It runs 12.0 if you shift at 6000. 11.8's shift at 6500. 11.6's shift at 7000. And it has seen 7500 a couple of times. I will say it was still pulling hard at 7500. I will probably change the cam at some point in the future as I don't want to turn it 7500 to get the most from it. I would never run a mechanical roller on the street again. The rollers just won't last vety long. I have tried it in the past and had roller failure twice after 15000 miles. Just my experiences. Jim PS: hope this long post doesn't upset you Ryan

Posted By: amxautox

Re: 10:1 Mild Stroker 416s - output? - 11/23/04 05:36 AM

BTT

Can't be loosing this thread.

Posted By: 9 Sec Phill

Re: 10:1 Mild Stroker 416s - output? - 11/23/04 06:29 AM

I just got my 416 w2 stroker in my 69 fast back cuda this last fall. The motor was dyno pulled, 525 Hp , 510 lb ft. 9.47 comp, eagle H beam rods, Mopar steel crank, gear drive, comp cam, 280 @ 50.victor w2 intake, barry grant 850 . Hooker super comp headers. The motor pulls like no other small block I have ever had! The car is 3300 lbs.3.91 gear ,226x8.5 mt slick. I drive it to the local strip , takes me 45 min to get there. The best so far is a 7.58 in the 1/8 @ 91mph.1.64 60'. This was with a very loose converter. Could only foot brake to 2900. I just got a top of the line 8"dynamic converter built to the motors dyno specs. New welds to lighten up the car. If you like ,I can post the dyno sheets for all to see.As I said before, this is a pullin motor.As for street use , it would not bother me to drive this car to LA and back, other than the price of fuel. Hope this helps. Phill

Posted By: amxautox

Re: 10:1 Mild Stroker 416s - output? - 11/23/04 10:47 PM

Anyone have a link to where to buy a stroker crank? There was one for the Mopar stuff on the other thread about stroking, but that thread seems to be gone now. The link to the Mopar cranks and engine parts.

Posted By: Crazy73

Re: 10:1 Mild Stroker 416s - output? - 11/24/04 02:31 AM

Sweet mother! This thread is still alive, and I still have no 416

I guess there is too much $ going to beautifying my '68 Barracuda (read: rolling chassis resto)

Looking through my archive of links here, I come to the following ideas:

Call your local MP dealer

The guys here in town quoted me 10% over cost (around 350 I think?) for one back in '03.

Check the evil monster, aka eBay - good deals DO pop up.

10:1 Mild Stroker 416s - output?