My 40 dodge tudor sedan

I got this car back in the spring of 2004 for $100. The car was clipped with(now don't yell at me ) a gm subframe. I've been collecting better sheetmetal over the years while waiting for my garage to get cleaned out(bro-in-laws stuff). I'm using a 318,trans, and rear end out of a 79 LeBaron that I parted out. I'm also using 81 dodge truck motor mounts and oil pan/pickup to mount in the car. I used an aluminum surround and gauges out of a A100 van,67 ford fairlane buckets and 48 plymouth backseat. 67 caddy donated its tilt/tele column and 64 caddy wheel to steer with. Hope these pics show up. later shawn

Thanks for the pics!
My other frame had a GM clip too, that's why I went with the frame I did. It was also narrowed, making it useless!
Looks like a good start, and the steering wheel looks nice, even though it came from the dark side.
I see that you haven't mounted the master cylinder yet. Are you going up on the firewall or under the floor?
Are you going to change the wheel bolt pattern on one end or the other to match?

Did they narrow yours so the wheels didn't stick out? leadsled001 on the HAMB told me to use 4wd s-10 steel wheels, 6" wide ones, with a 7/16 spacer behind them. The wheel tucks them in nice, but it tucks them in to far and the tie rod end rubs the wheel,hence the use of the spacer. 46mopar on the HAMB has a set on his dodge and they work nicely. I thought about getting custom backspaced wheels with double boltpattern but I'm on a tight budget and barterd some parts for the s-10 wheels. When I got the car it had a newer gm master cylinder and booster bolted up on the firewall and it was tilted upwards. It also seemed down to far. My buddy tried talking me into putting it under the floor but I didn't want to deal with trying to fill it underneath the car. I'm using the master cylinder and booster plus the pedal setup out of the LeBaron. Since the firewall has a slope to it, I'm going to cut along the sides and the bottom where the booster will bolt to the firewall and tilt it in so the assembly will be level. I have a 1/8" piece of steel cut out to match the bolt pattern of the booster to help stiffen up the firewall. I'll box the works in then to finish it up. I'm open to ideas or other suggestions if anyone has them. This is my first major build like this. A buddy of mine is helping me out with some of this stuff and this is what we brainstormed to do it this way. later shawn

So are you running mis-matched bolt pattern wheels front to back? Sounds like you are planning on running 5 on 4.5 in the back and 5 on 4.75 in the front?

Rad!!

bohmer2, yes that is correct. I wanted to run chrome reverse rims w/shannon cones but with the special offset I need in the front I'd have probably $500 in the rims. I picked up a set of brand new 15" Moon ripple disks at Carlisle this past spring for $50, so they will cover up the ugly s-10 rims in the front.

Thank's scott. later shawn

Quote:

---

Did they narrow yours so the wheels didn't stick out?
later shawn

---

I guess so. The track is okay, but when you do that, the center of the frame cuts into oil pan room and the center link of the steering needs to be narrowed too. It's a mess, which is why it's under the parts body.