Lowering question

Posted By: 49wayfarer

Lowering question - 07/03/09 02:04 AM

Posted this question on the HAMB. I mocked up my rear with 3" lowering blocks, not low enough. With the blocks I have 9" between the top of the axle and the bottom of the frame. I am going to do a trangulated 4 link, and need to know how much clearance is needed between the axle and frame before I would C-notch the frame. If I C-notch, I might as well narrow it for wider tires. Need to find Dakota lowering spindles, maybe I should have Z'd the front end. Not much will be left of the original frame, should have started from scratch.

Posted By: rabid scott

Re: Lowering question - 07/03/09 03:32 AM

Channel it!

Posted By: poorboy

Re: Lowering question - 07/05/09 03:21 AM

Quote:

Posted this question on the HAMB. I mocked up my rear with 3" lowering blocks, not low enough. With the blocks I have 9" between the top of the axle and the bottom of the frame. I am going to do a trangulated 4 link, and need to know how much clearance is needed between the axle and frame before I would C-notch the frame. If I C-notch, I might as well narrow it for wider tires. Need to find Dakota lowering spindles, maybe I should have Z'd the front end. Not much will be left of the original frame, should have started from scratch.

OK, I'm missing something here. If you have 9" between the bottom of the frame and the top of the axle with 3" lowering blocks in place, why do you want to "C notch" the frame?

When you mocked up the rear, did you have weight on the rear springs? (Would probably help to know what you have, guess I'll have to look to find your info.) Unless its sitting way high, I don't see how a 4 link is going to drop it enough to need a C notch, as you already can lower the rear 9" (6" + the 3" lowering blocks you will loose and still leave 3" of clearance) depending on how stiff your springs are and how much load you plan on carrying. Gene

Posted By: moparx

Re: Lowering question - 07/05/09 10:00 PM

3-4" would be enough clearance. i don't see any reason to c-notch with 9" plus
.....

Posted By: 49wayfarer

Re: Lowering question - 07/06/09 01:37 PM

I have 1949 Wayfarer, the rear mocked up, and with 3" blocks the U bolts are about same as the rim, get a flat and ride on the bolts. The leafs are old, they were once wrapped in cloth and a metal wrap. With the 3" blocks the body is still 9" off the ground. The body is bare, don't know how much it will be brought down with weight other than me standing on the rear. Here is a car similar to mine, that I was going to copy. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=223048
Don't know if I want to go quite that low, don't have any interest in a compressor to raise and lower it when parked. Just wasn't sure how much frame travel is needed at minimum.

Posted By: poorboy

Re: Lowering question - 07/07/09 03:00 AM

If your still using the 49 leaf springs, they will probably flatten out a bunch when you get the load on it. Expect the leafs to be nearly flat once loaded. Pile some weight into the trunk to equal what the gas, seats, and everything else missing will add up to, bounce the rear end up & down a few times, then measure the distance between the top of the axle and the bottom of the frame. You should have about 3" to 4" clearance.

Also, while its loaded, check your driveshaft clearance and u joint angles.

If your u-bolts are hanging below the rim surface, you need to cut off the excess, you only need a 1/4" to a 1/2" below the nuts of the u-bolts left after torqueing. Cut them after you are finished doing anything with the u-bolts because sometimes after cutting, they are a bear to remove and reinstall the nuts, if you would need to.

That car pictured on the link to the HAMB would be a pita to drive on the roads around here. Your 3" lowering blocks would be bad enough. Gene