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Power windows in a 33 ply.

Posted By: 2abodymcodes

Power windows in a 33 ply. - 06/22/16 03:51 AM

Has anyone here installed power windows in a 33 plymouth? I've bought 2 different power window kits and I can't seem to find one that will fit into my doors. I've altered the last kit so now I can't return it.any ideas?
Posted By: Crizila

Re: Power windows in a 33 ply. - 06/22/16 05:04 AM

Went with specialty power windows. Speedway #911-22303. My doors are fiberglass and taper down towards the bottom to about 1" ID. Still got it in, but major pain.

Attached picture PW2.jpg
Attached picture PW1.jpg
Posted By: 2abodymcodes

Re: Power windows in a 33 ply. - 06/22/16 02:13 PM

Thanks. where are the motors located ? any other pictures showing the install ?
Posted By: Crizila

Re: Power windows in a 33 ply. - 06/22/16 04:27 PM

Motors set at the bottom of the doors. The instructions with the kit make the install pretty easy. They are the thinnest ones I could find and lots of room for adjustment, so they will accommodate almost any situation. In my case, I still had to modify / fab up mounts for the lift arms - per the pic. That black tape you see at the bottom of the pic actually covers a hole I had to make in the inner skin for the motor to slightly protrude through. As I said it was a major space constraint problem with my doors as they tapered at the bottoms.

Attached picture rt side p window1.jpg
Posted By: Crizila

Re: Power windows in a 33 ply. - 06/22/16 04:36 PM

With door panels installed. I also had to stuff in power door locks and suicide door safety locks.

Attached picture Int1.jpg
Posted By: 2abodymcodes

Re: Power windows in a 33 ply. - 06/22/16 05:08 PM

you have a great looking car. job well done. I hope mine comes out that well. the windows in my 33 roll down towards the outer door skin so the motor has to be towards the outside. with my motors touching the skins, they still need to move out about an inch. I think I need to find an assembly that has the motor separate or a scissor type regulator.
Posted By: 2abodymcodes

Re: Power windows in a 33 ply. - 06/23/16 02:52 AM

i got it figured out. 1990 Dodge Caravan power regulators. a little snug but they went right in and work great. the upright piece had a slight curve in it but they bent straight without a problem. the good part is that I had these laying around the shop. I had over 50 different power regulator assemblies from different jobs that I had saved over the last 10 years. I recently thru them all away but saved these.

Attached picture 33 power windows 001.JPG
Posted By: 5wndwcpe

Re: Power windows in a 33 ply. - 06/23/16 04:00 AM

Which were the other ones that you did not use ?

I have a '33 Coupe and bought a Specialty Power Window kit and also ended up with a Nu Relics kit. I have not tried to install either one yet, so if you could tell me if it was either of those (or both) I'd appreciate it.
Posted By: 2abodymcodes

Re: Power windows in a 33 ply. - 06/23/16 02:14 PM

The first kit I bought was a Specialty. The motor was not connected to the track. Just not enough room in the door. The second kit I bought is Autolok. The motor is mounted on the very bottom and again, too wide for my stock doors.
Posted By: moparx

Re: Power windows in a 33 ply. - 06/23/16 06:12 PM

i have a couple of setups i may use in my humpback doors. both are flextrack deals. one is from the rear doors of an 84 [K car newyorker], and the other is a pair of factory replacements for a jeep liberty [i think]. i also have several other items on the shelf, but i'm not sure what they are for. my doors are like the rest of this thing..... RUSTY ! i have to replace approximately 5-6" of the bottom sheetmetal all the way around. i have a couple of different ideas what i may do, but i'm not even close to that stage. the reason i decided on flextrack units is, number one, my original crank setups were so far gone there was nothing at all to work with, and number two, i think that will give me more room at the bottom of the door for the mechanisms. oh, and the important thing is, i have zero $$ in the K car setup that only has 20k something miles, and $10 in the pair of jeep units ! biggrin since the thing is chopped, i only have about an 11 1/2" piece of glass to work with. my camera is having issues now downloading pics, so i can't take a couple to show you guys what my ideas are. hopefully, i can have that resolved in the next couple of days.
beer
Posted By: Crizila

Re: Power windows in a 33 ply. - 06/24/16 03:46 PM

Originally Posted By moparx
i have a couple of setups i may use in my humpback doors. both are flextrack deals. one is from the rear doors of an 84 [K car newyorker], and the other is a pair of factory replacements for a jeep liberty [i think]. i also have several other items on the shelf, but i'm not sure what they are for. my doors are like the rest of this thing..... RUSTY ! i have to replace approximately 5-6" of the bottom sheetmetal all the way around. i have a couple of different ideas what i may do, but i'm not even close to that stage. the reason i decided on flextrack units is, number one, my original crank setups were so far gone there was nothing at all to work with, and number two, i think that will give me more room at the bottom of the door for the mechanisms. oh, and the important thing is, i have zero $$ in the K car setup that only has 20k something miles, and $10 in the pair of jeep units ! biggrin since the thing is chopped, i only have about an 11 1/2" piece of glass to work with. my camera is having issues now downloading pics, so i can't take a couple to show you guys what my ideas are. hopefully, i can have that resolved in the next couple of days.
beer
Agree with your plan. Sometimes it is not worth trying to make the old stuff ( or parts of the old stuff) work. Fix the rust and start from scratch with the power window mechanisms. If you get the glass and the channels they run in installed, you are half way home. The nice thing about buying a kit is that they have infinite adjustability if you use their bottom edge glass holders. Switches, wiring, in, out, up stop, down stop all fully adjustable.
Posted By: moparx

Re: Power windows in a 33 ply. - 06/24/16 07:29 PM

i absolutely agree with your statement about using a kit with the adjustability, switches, etc. that would be the correct decision for most builds. however, with my twisted vision of how my humpback is to be, the switches, door latch mechanisms, locks, and suicide door safety locks, will be an entirely different setup to be sure. i have already sketched out several components plus their related wiring and relay systems. all this will reside just forward of the seats with the "push button conversion" box at arms reach, ala b&m mid-60's shifter box setup. as you stated, the glass channels and runs will be done first using masonite or plexiglass for the glass pattern, then go with the lift mechanisms that will fit the best. wiring the switches and relays will be a piece of cake.
beer
Posted By: Crizila

Re: Power windows in a 33 ply. - 06/24/16 10:50 PM

Originally Posted By moparx
i absolutely agree with your statement about using a kit with the adjustability, switches, etc. that would be the correct decision for most builds. however, with my twisted vision of how my humpback is to be, the switches, door latch mechanisms, locks, and suicide door safety locks, will be an entirely different setup to be sure. i have already sketched out several components plus their related wiring and relay systems. all this will reside just forward of the seats with the "push button conversion" box at arms reach, ala b&m mid-60's shifter box setup. as you stated, the glass channels and runs will be done first using masonite or plexiglass for the glass pattern, then go with the lift mechanisms that will fit the best. wiring the switches and relays will be a piece of cake.
beer
Other than the fact that they reside in the doors door locks and suicide safety door locks are totally separate issues with separate wiring circuits from the power window system. FYI I went with manual suicide locks (1/4 turn knob ) and wired led red lights on each corner of my dash to alert the passenger if not in use.
Posted By: moparx

Re: Power windows in a 33 ply. - 06/25/16 01:38 PM

for my door latch mechanism, i'm using the setup used in minivans from around 93-2000 that also has the power lock setup built in. i have a bunch of those handy, and they also fit my bus plus the wife's car. they are a pretty compact unit and will fit the door area great. i also have the latch plate [the piece the latch bolts to on the door] fabbed for both doors. the suicide safety latches are the universal manual types, but i looked them over good, and i have an idea how to convert them to power using some imperial solenoids. what i meant with the statement about grouping the wiring together, i will be using several late model lighted switches ganged in a pod to operate these systems. the thing i haven't decided upon is weather to use a flexible harness to go through the door/door jamb, or use those brass contact setups.
beer
Posted By: Crizila

Re: Power windows in a 33 ply. - 06/25/16 04:07 PM

Sounds like you have good plan. Innovative ideas up. My car has no outside door handles, so a little different than yours - no locks, but solenoid operated latch openers. Went with a flexible cable through my door jams.
Posted By: poorboy

Re: Power windows in a 33 ply. - 06/26/16 02:55 PM

Moparx, If your panel is going to reside in the outside weather conditions, the flexible cable for door wiring is the way to go. The brass contact setups can quickly become corroded enough to not make consistent contact when exposed to real weather conditions. They are OK on a indoor show poodle, but not so good on something that even semi resides in the real world.

I had a friend that bought an ex-show car that had the brass connectors, after about a year in a very pampered, but regularly used ride (cruising & car shows), cleaning the brass connections became part of the daily car cleaning process, because of them making the poor connections. After a couple of years, he replaced the brass contacts with flexible cables. Gene
Posted By: moparx

Re: Power windows in a 33 ply. - 06/26/16 03:33 PM

that's good to know gene ! up the slider door contacts on my caravan occasionally need a scrubbing with a fine steel wool pad to work. i thought about using some of those, but they are only a two wire setup. i will need more than that, so a flex cable bundle will more than likely be used. another reason for the flex cable is the fact when trouble shooting or even just operating the window mechanism, when the door is open, you would need to rig up something to power up the systems as the contacts are broken, therefore, no power.
beer
Posted By: Crizila

Re: Power windows in a 33 ply. - 06/26/16 07:15 PM

Originally Posted By poorboy
Moparx, If your panel is going to reside in the outside weather conditions, the flexible cable for door wiring is the way to go. The brass contact setups can quickly become corroded enough to not make consistent contact when exposed to real weather conditions. They are OK on a indoor show poodle, but not so good on something that even semi resides in the real world.

I had a friend that bought an ex-show car that had the brass connectors, after about a year in a very pampered, but regularly used ride (cruising & car shows), cleaning the brass connections became part of the daily car cleaning process, because of them making the poor connections. After a couple of years, he replaced the brass contacts with flexible cables. Gene
and when those contact surfaces start to degrade, they create heat through resistance - before they finally go open or trip the fused circuit.
Posted By: moparx

Re: Power windows in a 33 ply. - 06/26/16 07:45 PM

Originally Posted By Crizila
Originally Posted By poorboy
Moparx, If your panel is going to reside in the outside weather conditions, the flexible cable for door wiring is the way to go. The brass contact setups can quickly become corroded enough to not make consistent contact when exposed to real weather conditions. They are OK on a indoor show poodle, but not so good on something that even semi resides in the real world.

I had a friend that bought an ex-show car that had the brass connectors, after about a year in a very pampered, but regularly used ride (cruising & car shows), cleaning the brass connections became part of the daily car cleaning process, because of them making the poor connections. After a couple of years, he replaced the brass contacts with flexible cables. Gene
and when those contact surfaces start to degrade, they create heat through resistance - before they finally go open or trip the fused circuit.

ah, YES SIR ! and i have fixed my share of melty wires over the years. i know better, and i don't know why i even thought about that route. i guess my "oldtimers" disease need reminding by you guys every so often. thanks for the "pants kicking" i deserved for even thinking about those contacters !
beer
Posted By: 2abodymcodes

Re: Power windows in a 33 ply. - 06/27/16 03:16 AM

Has anyone run wires into the door when using Hagan hidden hinges? I used their hinge kit on my 33 and the doors don't open like stock. They kinda slide out before they open. It's hard to explain, I'll post a picture tomorrow.
Posted By: Crizila

Re: Power windows in a 33 ply. - 06/27/16 04:31 PM

Originally Posted By 2abodymcodes
Has anyone run wires into the door when using Hagan hidden hinges? I used their hinge kit on my 33 and the doors don't open like stock. They kinda slide out before they open. It's hard to explain, I'll post a picture tomorrow.
I believe mine are Speedways # 97652932. Came up with this neat idea for dome light switches without having to drill holes in door jam.

Attached picture door jam switch.jpg
Posted By: 2abodymcodes

Re: Power windows in a 33 ply. - 06/27/16 08:14 PM

very smart idea. it looks like your hinges work the same as Hagan. how did you run your wires for power windows?
Posted By: Crizila

Re: Power windows in a 33 ply. - 06/28/16 06:15 AM

Originally Posted By 2abodymcodes
very smart idea. it looks like your hinges work the same as Hagan. how did you run your wires for power windows?
All the door wiring goes through the door jam via a sliding loom ( loom slides in and out of the jam with open and closing of the door ). The hole in the body jam has to be elongated slightly for the loom to slide freely. Wiring for the remote control door and trunk latches is located behind a panel in the trunk ( to the left of the hinged battery cover in the pic. All other door wiring goes forward to the under dash fuse panel. I built in 2 safety's for vehicle entry without the remote control. One for - Oh [censored], I locked my keys and remote in the car, and a manual trunk latch entry in case of a dead battery.

Attached picture PW1.jpg
Attached picture fuel tank.JPG
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