1957 plymouth, art morrison bikini clip, or 1st gen dakota

I am preparing to modify a frame for my 1957 Plymouth. I have been considering using the front portion of a first gen Dakota for the rack and pinion steering and disc brakes. It appears that it shares the same track width as the Plymouth. I know the Dakota frame swap is a popular choice for the earlier cars. I cant say I have seen the Dakota as a donor for just the front end. The other option I have considered is an art Morrison clip. Anyone have advice or an opinion?

My '56 Plymouth has a '91 Dakota clip, done by the PO. Fits like the proverbial glove.

What did you go with for an engine?

A 360 LA.

the dakota full frame approach is a rocky road-----the frame kicks up too high over the rear wheels---you will spend alot of time cutting your rear floorboards out and trying to make it look normal around the back seat and trunk....i put a dakota front clip on my 50 hudson--exactly the same front width---frame within 3/4 inch of same width...bob

I agree, the Dakota frame kicks up around 7" to go over the rear axle, and just stays that height.
I have a full Dakota frame under my 48 Plymouth business coupe. I have the 7" higher rear floor & trunk floor. Not a big deal for me because its a business coupe and I have a storage area behind the seat. Had i wanted a rear seat in there, it would have been a big issue.

I'll post an in process build picture of the differences between the front floor pan, and the rear step up floor. The front floor pan is the original Dakota pan from a standard cab. The rear floor is actually the Dakota box floor. Both floor pans are bolted to the regular Dakota body mounts. There was 8" removed from the frame between the gas tank and the rear of the cab. The cab floor was also moved rearward 7". The box floor front was cut off, and the 2nd box floor crossmember is sitting on top of the back of the cab floor. The box floor is bolted to the rear frame using the original center two box mounts. Gene

I will not be using the entire frame from the Dakota. I would only be using the front portion and grafting it to the 1957 Plymouth frame.

https://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/ubbt...tml#Post1962414

Just about to start mine also, we can learn together. I really like Johns.

I purchased a 1990 Dakota yesterday for $500. Now I need to find a place to store the Plymouth so I can begin the disassembly process...

While both rides are present, park them side by side and make measurements, so you know how much of the Dakota you want to keep and use. Its lots easier to determine where you want to cut something when you can look at them both.

Look at things like level points (with measurements off the ground in several places along both frames)with the rides parked at the same location in the garage or on the driveway. Determine fixed points on both frames that will be at least 12" away from the cut zone, so you will have reference points when its in pieces. Heights, widths, lengths, cross measurements, height off the ground, at several locations, at a given point on your garage is real useful when you need the new frame to be straight and flat. Write this stuff down, and take and draw pictures, its amazing how fast the memory fades over a couple months time. If you think maybe it might be something of value, make the measurement and write it down, its better to have useless info then to be missing something you wish you would have done.

Time spent looking at stuff side by side could be a life saver later. At least that's been my experience. Gene

Great tips Gene thanks

All good advice for sure. Measure twice cut once... after you have measured two more times.

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All good advice for sure. Measure twice cut once... after you have measured two more times. [/quote]

One nice thing about working with metal. If you cut it wrong, you can usually weld it back together and cut it again! It might require a bit more work to make it pretty, but at least you don't have to throw it away and start over like you do with wood.

I work with metal out of necessity, I would be a really broke woodworker. Gene

my old man was a carpenter, as was my grandpa. the old man was kind of disappointed i chose a different profession instead of following him and gramps. when he finally asked me why, i told him "they don't make wood rod"...............

Can I ask what the frame width is? I have a 35 plymouth 2 dr sedan to do and am also considering the same for a 50 Studebaker truck.

Does anyone have any pics of their front end frame only swap?

Dave

04 Dak front clip on a 55 Dodge 1/2 ton pu.

Frame with engine and trans.

Do you happen to have a shot face down of how you did the work and the width of the frames from the inside?

Does anyone know the dakota frame width?

RUMBLON

'56's are a different front suspension design, they still had king pins.
'57 was the first year for torsion aire suspension...
my friend and i were discussing a front suspension/frame swap for the wagon, he currently has 18 57/58 plymouths, one of which is slated for a b1 headed stroker.

Sorry no shots looking straight down at splice. The Dak frame is wider than the early Dodge truck frames. I used a gen II Dak front end on my 55 because I got it for cheap. Most swaps are done with the Gen I Dak front end. It's a much better fit and you can get dropped spindals for them. Best advice I can give you is set both frames side by side and determine where you want the splice before cutting anything. Also be sure you match the old trucks wheel base other wise your fender wheel wells will not be centered on tires.