Posted By: Crizila
"Custom 33" - 04/29/14 08:37 PM
Don't normally post on this forum so - is anyone doing a "Custom 33" 1933 Plymouth coupe? Got a spare 360 and 727 that is looking for a home. Thanks, John
"Custom 33"
Posted By: savoy64
Re: "Custom 33" *DELETED* - 05/02/14 06:15 PM
Post deleted by savoy64
Posted By: Crizila
Re: "Custom 33" - 05/03/14 12:43 AM
Posted By: Matt Erich
Re: "Custom 33" - 05/06/14 06:02 AM
Please let me know if you have any questions about the Custom33 cars. I will be happy to answer any questions!
Posted By: savoy64
Re: "Custom 33" *DELETED* - 05/07/14 03:54 AM
Post deleted by savoy64
Posted By: Matt Erich
Re: "Custom 33" - 05/07/14 04:56 AM
We are currently building 3 cars. 360, 5.7 hemi and LS engine.
Posted By: Crizila
Re: "Custom 33" - 05/08/14 04:11 PM
Quote:Hey Matt, thanks for the call and question / answer session. No question regarding drive train. It will be all Mopar. Checked out the "grills" on the "Alumicraft" sight and the wheels on the "Riddler" sight. Lots of #695 series wheels to choose from. Haven't quite yet decided on the build theme yet - recruiting wife's help. Also couldn't find any pics of the 4-link rear suspension change on face book? Maybe you could post some pics here? Regards, John
Please let me know if you have any questions about the Custom33 cars. I will be happy to answer any questions!
Posted By: Matt Erich
Re: "Custom 33" - 05/08/14 06:37 PM
Great speaking with you! The 4 link pictures will be posted very soon as we are in the final stages of testing.
Posted By: Rob C
Re: "Custom 33" - 06/16/14 03:50 AM
Quote:
Please let me know if you have any questions about the Custom33 cars. I will be happy to answer any questions!
Hey Matt. Is this your site? I just dropped an E-mail to the listed G-mail address. I would love to do one of these cars! Everybody has a Ford of Chevy. I really don't wanna go down that road. To common. Never really a cookie cutter kind of guy.
Posted By: Matt Erich
Re: "Custom 33" - 06/16/14 10:00 PM
Hello,
Yes I own custom33 and I replied to the email requesting your phone number. Usually talking over the phone is much easier and quicker!
Yes I own custom33 and I replied to the email requesting your phone number. Usually talking over the phone is much easier and quicker!
Posted By: MuuMuu101
Re: "Custom 33" - 06/17/14 05:07 AM
Woah... The Custom33 is awesome. 
Posted By: Crizila
Re: "Custom 33" - 06/18/14 05:07 AM
Quote:Ya, can't wait to get mine!
Woah... The Custom33 is awesome.
Posted By: Rob C
Re: "Custom 33" - 06/18/14 07:50 AM
Hey Matt;
Sent back An E-mail. Call from 6pm and on most days. I'm home all day tomorrow.
Sent back An E-mail. Call from 6pm and on most days. I'm home all day tomorrow.
Posted By: Matt Erich
Re: "Custom 33" - 06/20/14 03:51 AM
Rob,
I have tried a few times and the # seems to be invalid.
I have tried a few times and the # seems to be invalid.
Posted By: Rob C
Re: "Custom 33" - 06/21/14 04:19 AM
Hum, I'll PM you my number again just to be sure I did type in the correct number, LOL!
What site are you at with your "Rod?"
What site are you at with your "Rod?"
Posted By: Matt Erich
Re: "Custom 33" - 06/24/14 09:18 PM
The website will be updated shortly with more detailed information and updated pictures with the new suspension upgrades.
Posted By: savoy64
Re: "Custom 33" - 06/25/14 01:24 AM
now i get it---instead of paying to be a sponsor or getting lost in the hot deals-new products page---you just run a continuous sales promotion---with a couple guys feigning interest---bantering about--maybe someone will get lured in-----good for you....
Posted By: moparx
Re: "Custom 33" - 06/25/14 02:34 AM
Quote:
now i get it---instead of paying to be a sponsor or getting lost in the hot deals-new products page---you just run a continuous sales promotion---with a couple guys feigning interest---bantering about--maybe someone will get lured in-----good for you....
..............
Posted By: Crizila
Re: "Custom 33" - 06/25/14 03:26 AM
Quote:I started this thread and I assure you that is not the case at all. I have no ties to Custom33 other than buying one of their kit cars. Actually, I found a lot more info on their face book sight than on Moparts.
now i get it---instead of paying to be a sponsor or getting lost in the hot deals-new products page---you just run a continuous sales promotion---with a couple guys feigning interest---bantering about--maybe someone will get lured in-----good for you....
Posted By: Matt Erich
Re: "Custom 33" - 06/25/14 05:53 AM
Savoy64,
I have had nothing to do with this thread being started and didn't even know about the website until i started to see the website traffic coming from the message board to the site. I created the account so that I could be more helpful on the board with any questions about the street rod. With all of this being said if you would like to send me pricing sheet for advertising on this website I would be happy to look at it. Maybe next conversation we be more enjoyable, more professional and have more actual facts.
Matt Erich
Owner of Custom33 and will be happy to have a chat via phone anytime 317.435.9781
I have had nothing to do with this thread being started and didn't even know about the website until i started to see the website traffic coming from the message board to the site. I created the account so that I could be more helpful on the board with any questions about the street rod. With all of this being said if you would like to send me pricing sheet for advertising on this website I would be happy to look at it. Maybe next conversation we be more enjoyable, more professional and have more actual facts.
Matt Erich
Owner of Custom33 and will be happy to have a chat via phone anytime 317.435.9781
Posted By: Crizila
Re: "Custom 33" - 06/28/14 06:10 PM
4 link mocked up on my chassis.
Posted By: Crizila
Re: "Custom 33" - 07/11/14 02:50 AM
Old school tires and wheels going on my 33.
Posted By: Crizila
Re: "Custom 33" - 09/02/14 09:35 AM
X-mas came early this year.
Posted By: Crizila
Re: "Custom 33" - 09/02/14 09:38 AM
pic2
Posted By: Crizila
Re: "Custom 33" - 09/02/14 09:40 AM
pic3
Posted By: 70Duster440
Re: "Custom 33" - 09/02/14 08:04 PM
Man, that is sweet looking!
Posted By: moparpollack
Re: "Custom 33" - 09/03/14 04:51 AM
Looks like fun, wiring a fiberglass car has its challenges DAMHIK. 
Posted By: Crizila
Re: "Custom 33" - 09/04/14 01:52 AM
Quote:Ya, can you say - lots of grounds
Looks like fun, wiring a fiberglass car has its challenges DAMHIK.
.
Posted By: moparx
Re: "Custom 33" - 09/04/14 02:21 AM
bus bars come in handy.
Posted By: theraif
Re: "Custom 33" - 09/04/14 02:41 AM
I need to start playing mega millions that would be an awesome race car
Posted By: Crizila
Re: "Custom 33" - 09/04/14 03:15 AM
Quote:Should run mid /hi 12's with a warmed up 360 / 727 and 3.55 gears.
I need to start playing mega millions that would be an awesome race car
Posted By: Matt Erich
Re: "Custom 33" - 09/09/14 11:21 PM
Thanks for the pictures John! Its always fun watching customer builds in the process and from looking at your previous builds I am sure the 33 is going to turn out great!
The ground problem will likely be very minimal as we have full 1/4 thick steel floors and interior caging that bolts directly to the frame. This should make finding a solid ground easy and quick.
Good luck on the build and like I have always said call anytime!!!!!!!
Matt
The ground problem will likely be very minimal as we have full 1/4 thick steel floors and interior caging that bolts directly to the frame. This should make finding a solid ground easy and quick.
Good luck on the build and like I have always said call anytime!!!!!!!
Matt
Posted By: dogdays
Re: "Custom 33" - 09/10/14 01:49 AM
1/4" thick steel floors? Why? Are you a retired Ford engineer who truly believes that "road-hugging weight" advertisement?
Just checking...
R.
Just checking...
R.
Posted By: Crizila
Re: "Custom 33" - 09/10/14 02:25 AM
" Are you a retired Ford engineer". - BIT YOUR TONGUE!!! 1/4" floor plates bolt through the body, body bushings, and in to the frame rails with 12 1/2"-20 bolts to stiffen up the center of the chassis. I want both front tires to get "equal air" when I push on that red NO2 button. 
Posted By: moparx
Re: "Custom 33" - 09/10/14 02:58 AM
just wondering out loud here. what thickness is the chassis rails ? and with all that plate in the floor, how heavy will it end up being ? with that mass, it should be a good riding car with the correct spring package. incidentally, what rate springs does it use ?
Posted By: Crizila
Re: "Custom 33" - 09/10/14 07:34 PM
Quote:Chassis rails = 1/4" wall 2X4. Weight = guess 21-2300 lbs. Car will be fully equipped as a driver - heat, A/C, full exhaust, undercoated, etc. Spring rates; Carrera QA1 adjustable coil overs on all corners. frt. 200 / rr. 125.
just wondering out loud here. what thickness is the chassis rails ? and with all that plate in the floor, how heavy will it end up being ? with that mass, it should be a good riding car with the correct spring package. incidentally, what rate springs does it use ?
Posted By: Matt Erich
Re: "Custom 33" - 09/11/14 05:46 AM
When I started designing this car and looking at what target market I wanted to focus on I made my mind up that it would be a driver. I am not saying the body and chassis combo cant be a trailer queen!
I built the car for the road and took safety into consideration in every part of the car. Could I of went with thin wall round tubing, 1/2 inch cross member instead of 3/4, 1/2 heims and rodends instead of 3/4, fiberglass floor with a thin piece of wood sandwiched between the glass instead of 1/4 steel???? Sure I could of and it would of saved me THOUSANDS of dollars and I probably would of sold the same number of cars I have to date. BUT I wanted to design a unique street rod for an untapped mopar market that if a husband and wife wanted to jump in and drive across the country they wouldn't be worried about a deer jumping out and going completely threw the car!
The car is fiberglass not steel I understand that so I have made up for the weakness in panels by supporting the structure around it. I am sure John will post pictures of the steel interior and the chassis bracing. I hope to be updating the website soon with new pictures of the latest designs.
Cheers,
Matt
Custom33
I built the car for the road and took safety into consideration in every part of the car. Could I of went with thin wall round tubing, 1/2 inch cross member instead of 3/4, 1/2 heims and rodends instead of 3/4, fiberglass floor with a thin piece of wood sandwiched between the glass instead of 1/4 steel???? Sure I could of and it would of saved me THOUSANDS of dollars and I probably would of sold the same number of cars I have to date. BUT I wanted to design a unique street rod for an untapped mopar market that if a husband and wife wanted to jump in and drive across the country they wouldn't be worried about a deer jumping out and going completely threw the car!
The car is fiberglass not steel I understand that so I have made up for the weakness in panels by supporting the structure around it. I am sure John will post pictures of the steel interior and the chassis bracing. I hope to be updating the website soon with new pictures of the latest designs.
Cheers,
Matt
Custom33
Posted By: dogdays
Re: "Custom 33" - 09/12/14 12:50 AM
Well, putting unnecessary weight in it with really thick steel sections is a lot different than using heavy duty suspension components. The problem for me is that I look at a 1/4" plate just sitting there and know that most of it isn't doing anything.
Metal that's close to or on the neutral axis is just along for the ride.
You don't have to be Anthony Colin Bruce Chapman, but economy doesn't have to mean cheap.
R.
Metal that's close to or on the neutral axis is just along for the ride.
You don't have to be Anthony Colin Bruce Chapman, but economy doesn't have to mean cheap.
R.
Posted By: poorboy
Re: "Custom 33" - 09/12/14 04:13 AM
Quote:
Well, putting unnecessary weight in it with really thick steel sections is a lot different than using heavy duty suspension components. The problem for me is that I look at a 1/4" plate just sitting there and know that most of it isn't doing anything.
Metal that's close to or on the neutral axis is just along for the ride.
You don't have to be Anthony Colin Bruce Chapman, but economy doesn't have to mean cheap.
R.
Actually, if the glass body has a steel structure, and the 1/4" plate is tied into that structure, having 1/4" plate at body to frame mounting points will make a tough glass body.
For many body/frame chassis vehicles, the body and frame often separate in crashes. Usually the bolts pull through the frame mount or through the body structure. With a 1/4" 2" x 4" tube frame, and a 1/4" plate sandwiched between the glass, the body/frame would probably stay together, which is usually helpful for the passengers.
Sounds like he put some thought concerning occupant safety into building the car, which is more then a lot of companies have done over the years. And I don't have a dog in this fight. Gene
Posted By: Crizila
Re: "Custom 33" - 09/12/14 05:30 AM
Quote:If you have to put weight ( about 80 lbs ) in for safety, the neutral axis zone is where you want to put it - especially if your ass is also sitting in the neutral axis zone. Perfect for mounting seats / seat belts or possibly a roll bar.
Well, putting unnecessary weight in it with really thick steel sections is a lot different than using heavy duty suspension components. The problem for me is that I look at a 1/4" plate just sitting there and know that most of it isn't doing anything.
Metal that's close to or on the neutral axis is just along for the ride.
You don't have to be Anthony Colin Bruce Chapman, but economy doesn't have to mean cheap.
R.
Posted By: dogdays
Re: "Custom 33" - 09/12/14 07:21 PM
At the risk of prolonging this filibuster, you do not understand what neutral axis means. It's not roll center or roll axis. That's vehicle dynamics.
It's a term in engineering. As an example, imagine a one-inch bar. Support the ends and put a weight in the middle. As the bar is loaded, the upper fibers are in compression, the lower fibers are in tension. If you think about it you will understand that there must be a point where the fibers stop being in compression and start being in tension. That's the neutral axis. Tension = compression = 0 at that point.
When you start studying how material supports a load, you soon figure out that the farther the material is from the neutral axis, the more force it exerts "trying" to keep the piece in its original shape, resisting the load. At the neutral axis, the material isn't doing anything to resist the load.
Ever wonder why an I-beam is so strong for its weight? That's because most of the non-working material at the neutral axis isn't there. An I-beam puts most of the material as far as possible from the neutral axis, meaning that most of the material is working hard to resist the load. The web itself only has to be strong enough to resist crushing.
R.
It's a term in engineering. As an example, imagine a one-inch bar. Support the ends and put a weight in the middle. As the bar is loaded, the upper fibers are in compression, the lower fibers are in tension. If you think about it you will understand that there must be a point where the fibers stop being in compression and start being in tension. That's the neutral axis. Tension = compression = 0 at that point.
When you start studying how material supports a load, you soon figure out that the farther the material is from the neutral axis, the more force it exerts "trying" to keep the piece in its original shape, resisting the load. At the neutral axis, the material isn't doing anything to resist the load.
Ever wonder why an I-beam is so strong for its weight? That's because most of the non-working material at the neutral axis isn't there. An I-beam puts most of the material as far as possible from the neutral axis, meaning that most of the material is working hard to resist the load. The web itself only has to be strong enough to resist crushing.
R.
Posted By: Crizila
Re: "Custom 33" - 09/13/14 01:09 AM
Quote:
At the risk of prolonging this filibuster, you do not understand what neutral axis means. It's not roll center or roll axis. That's vehicle dynamics.
It's a term in engineering. As an example, imagine a one-inch bar. Support the ends and put a weight in the middle. As the bar is loaded, the upper fibers are in compression, the lower fibers are in tension. If you think about it you will understand that there must be a point where the fibers stop being in compression and start being in tension. That's the neutral axis. Tension = compression = 0 at that point.
When you start studying how material supports a load, you soon figure out that the farther the material is from the neutral axis, the more force it exerts "trying" to keep the piece in its original shape, resisting the load. At the neutral axis, the material isn't doing anything to resist the load.
Ever wonder why an I-beam is so strong for its weight? That's because most of the non-working material at the neutral axis isn't there. An I-beam puts most of the material as far as possible from the neutral axis, meaning that most of the material is working hard to resist the load. The web itself only has to be strong enough to resist crushing.
R.
- I .
Posted By: Matt Erich
Re: "Custom 33" - 09/13/14 02:44 AM
R.
I enjoy talking with other that have a engineering background and thank you for the explanation of the "I" beam because that is in fact the exact scenario I am duplicating. The 2x4 rails being the top and bottom of the "I" and the center bracing of the chassis which is also connected to the steel interior via 1/2 bolt. The fiberglass floor board is sandwiched between the 2 pieces of steel. The steel cage that we have built and put into place also is welded to the steel thus creating a close resemblance to a Unibody.
Some mopar fans compare everything to the 60-70 steel cars and I will never argue that my car is as safe or even close! I will say that custom33 has more support and reinforcement then the majority of street rod companies.
I enjoy talking with other that have a engineering background and thank you for the explanation of the "I" beam because that is in fact the exact scenario I am duplicating. The 2x4 rails being the top and bottom of the "I" and the center bracing of the chassis which is also connected to the steel interior via 1/2 bolt. The fiberglass floor board is sandwiched between the 2 pieces of steel. The steel cage that we have built and put into place also is welded to the steel thus creating a close resemblance to a Unibody.
Some mopar fans compare everything to the 60-70 steel cars and I will never argue that my car is as safe or even close! I will say that custom33 has more support and reinforcement then the majority of street rod companies.
Posted By: moparx
Re: "Custom 33" - 09/13/14 10:28 AM
in the pic crizila posted of the floor structure, is the 1/4 plate tied into the transmission tunnel ? what material is the tunnel made of ? i like the fact of the floor thickness being capable of seat and restraint mounting without fear of pull through or improper mounting techniques used to accomplish the same.
Posted By: Matt Erich
Re: "Custom 33" - 09/14/14 04:30 PM
I will try and post pictures of the chassis soon. The chassis has bracing that comes off the frame and follows the outside edge of the steel floors. The outside edge of the floor pans is where the 12 1/2bolts tie it all in. Weld bungs have been put into the frame and steel bracing.
Posted By: Crizila
Re: "Custom 33" - 10/22/14 04:04 PM
Interior work.
Posted By: Crizila
Re: "Custom 33" - 11/26/14 04:24 AM
Mocking up the motor.
Posted By: Crizila
Re: "Custom 33" - 11/26/14 04:25 AM
nuther
Posted By: moparpollack
Re: "Custom 33" - 11/26/14 04:28 AM
So it will be ready for the HEMI show in march right.
Posted By: Crizila
Re: "Custom 33" - 11/26/14 04:28 AM
Trans mount - modified GM mount.
Posted By: Crizila
Re: "Custom 33" - 11/26/14 04:35 AM
Quote:Sure - March 2016.
So it will be ready for the HEMI show in march right.
Posted By: moparx
Re: "Custom 33" - 11/27/14 01:40 PM
looking good ! progress makes a guy feel like something ! could you possibly take a pic of your steering shaft idler & mount, as well as measuring the distance between the column and shaft as it passes the block/bellhousing attachment area ? thanks ! 
Posted By: moparpollack
Re: "Custom 33" - 11/27/14 04:11 PM
Quote:Quote:Sure - March 2016.
So it will be ready for the HEMI show in march right.
If you bring she 300 this year I will stop by and say hi!
Posted By: Crizila
Re: "Custom 33" - 11/27/14 04:23 PM
Quote:Been suffering with the 300 this year John. If I bring it and you stop by, I might just give it to you!Quote:Quote:Sure - March 2016.
So it will be ready for the HEMI show in march right.
If you bring she 300 this year I will stop by and say hi!
Posted By: moparpollack
Re: "Custom 33" - 11/27/14 05:03 PM
Quote:Quote:Been suffering with the 300 this year John. If I bring it and you stop by, I might just give it to you!Quote:Quote:Sure - March 2016.
So it will be ready for the HEMI show in march right.
If you bring she 300 this year I will stop by and say hi!
Cool!
Posted By: Crizila
Re: "Custom 33" - 11/27/14 06:38 PM
Quote:Attached are some pics Eric. Hope they help. As you know, room is always a trade off with theses types of projects. Went with a 33" column. 5" sticking out the firewall. Steering shaft ( 3/4" double D ) is 28" long. Header clearance is 1/2". Column to steering shaft angle is 25*. Steering shaft to rack is at 30*. I am going to try it this way ( without a steering shaft support bearing ), hoping there won't be any steering shaft flex. If there is, I will add a support bearing near where the shaft goes through the engine mount. Full size starter won't clear. Gonna have to go with a mini starter.
looking good ! progress makes a guy feel like something ! could you possibly take a pic of your steering shaft idler & mount, as well as measuring the distance between the column and shaft as it passes the block/bellhousing attachment area ? thanks !
Posted By: Crizila
Re: "Custom 33" - 11/27/14 06:41 PM
nuther pic
Posted By: Crizila
Re: "Custom 33" - 11/27/14 06:47 PM
last pic
Posted By: AZ_A12_BEE
Re: "Custom 33" - 11/27/14 07:45 PM
Since its a fiberglass body and custom frame what will it be tiitled and registered as?
Posted By: Crizila
Re: "Custom 33" - 11/27/14 08:47 PM
Quote:C of O provided by the vendor - "Custom 33". Makes it easy at the DMV. Titled as a 1933 Plymouth with serial #.
Since its a fiberglass body and custom frame what will it be tiitled and registered as?
Posted By: Matt Erich
Re: "Custom 33" - 12/04/14 04:45 AM
We have updated the rear suspension and upgraded the rod ends with stainless. This car also feature tubes without knurling! Makes for a nice clean look! If you see something we can improve on please let us know, we love making the product better by others feedback.
Posted By: Matt Erich
Re: "Custom 33" - 12/04/14 04:46 AM
Top view
Posted By: Crizila
Re: "Custom 33" - 12/13/14 07:28 PM
Wife added a little touch of class to the project.
Posted By: moparx
Re: "Custom 33" - 12/14/14 01:14 PM
Quote:
Wife added a little touch of class to the project.
that's pretty neat ! did i ever ask what you thought it will weigh when done ?
Posted By: Crizila
Re: "Custom 33" - 12/14/14 07:55 PM
23 - 2400 per Custom 33. Should be an easy 12 second ride with the mild 360 build.
Posted By: Supercuda
Re: "Custom 33" - 12/14/14 08:28 PM
Looking at the chassis, I have serious concerns.
No cross bracing on the chassis. Ackerman does not exist. Crap for bumpsteer, I really love how tall those bumpsteer spacers are. Scrub line looks like it might be close to hitting. 5 link rear is "interesting". Rod ends? Come on, not legal. In Texas I have to get an ASE certified master chassis tech to inspect this to get a title. I know it won't pass a legit inspection and I know I wouldn't want to drive it other than on and off the trailer for shows as designed.
No cross bracing on the chassis. Ackerman does not exist. Crap for bumpsteer, I really love how tall those bumpsteer spacers are. Scrub line looks like it might be close to hitting. 5 link rear is "interesting". Rod ends? Come on, not legal. In Texas I have to get an ASE certified master chassis tech to inspect this to get a title. I know it won't pass a legit inspection and I know I wouldn't want to drive it other than on and off the trailer for shows as designed.
Posted By: moparpollack
Re: "Custom 33" - 12/14/14 08:32 PM
Is there a safety lock for the suicide door? My buddy just found out the hard way at 65 mph in his 34 ford.
Posted By: Supercuda
Re: "Custom 33" - 12/14/14 09:29 PM
I don't think the door latches are included, Bear Claw does make a nice set with safety locks, similar to modern latches.
Posted By: poorboy
Re: "Custom 33" - 12/14/14 10:57 PM
Quote:
Looking at the chassis, I have serious concerns.
No cross bracing on the chassis. Ackerman does not exist. Crap for bumpsteer, I really love how tall those bumpsteer spacers are. Scrub line looks like it might be close to hitting. 5 link rear is "interesting". Rod ends? Come on, not legal. In Texas I have to get an ASE certified master chassis tech to inspect this to get a title. I know it won't pass a legit inspection and I know I wouldn't want to drive it other than on and off the trailer for shows as designed.
So, what did you see, that I must have missed, that allowed you to see all these imperfections? Gene
Posted By: Supercuda
Re: "Custom 33" - 12/14/14 11:55 PM
Quote:Quote:
Looking at the chassis, I have serious concerns.
No cross bracing on the chassis. Ackerman does not exist. Crap for bumpsteer, I really love how tall those bumpsteer spacers are. Scrub line looks like it might be close to hitting. 5 link rear is "interesting". Rod ends? Come on, not legal. In Texas I have to get an ASE certified master chassis tech to inspect this to get a title. I know it won't pass a legit inspection and I know I wouldn't want to drive it other than on and off the trailer for shows as designed.
So, what did you see, that I must have missed, that allowed you to see all these imperfections? Gene
look at the website pictures, if you can't see it you might need to see the doc.
Posted By: Matt Erich
Re: "Custom 33" - 12/15/14 12:53 AM
I will answer these questions very nicely because I know everybody has a opinion and a keyboard
No cross bracing on the chassis-Please look at the pictures posted on this site and on facebook, it has chassis bracing by Custom33 and also with transmission mount.
Ackerman does not exist. Crap for bumpsteer, I really love how tall those bumpsteer spacers are- The car actually bumps near zero thus the purpose of the spacers but we have now changed to a traditional ball joint so street rod people will be more comfortable. PS we drive racecars over 200MPG with same setup on this car.
Scrub line looks like it might be close to hitting=Please explain your definition of scrub line
5 link rear is "interesting"- I have never put my eyes on a 5 link but would love to see a 5 link suspension if you could share pictures.
Rod ends are perfectly normal and DOT approved but just like the bumpsteer adjusters you can see from the latest cars we are building them with 4 bar ends which have urethane bushings
In Texas I have to get an ASE certified master chassis tech to inspect this to get a title. I know it won't pass a legit inspection and I know I wouldn't want to drive it other than on and off the trailer for shows as designed- If i had to trust a ASE certified chassis tech to approve my car for safety I would ride the city bus. Dont hang your hat on that certification as most engineers designing modern cars havent heard of ASE but I am sure they dont know what they are doing either.
If you took the original all steel ford,chevy or plymouth 1930's car and did a crash test, closed coarse test and safety inspection I am extremely confident my car will be just fine!!!!!!!!!!!
No cross bracing on the chassis-Please look at the pictures posted on this site and on facebook, it has chassis bracing by Custom33 and also with transmission mount.
Ackerman does not exist. Crap for bumpsteer, I really love how tall those bumpsteer spacers are- The car actually bumps near zero thus the purpose of the spacers but we have now changed to a traditional ball joint so street rod people will be more comfortable. PS we drive racecars over 200MPG with same setup on this car.
Scrub line looks like it might be close to hitting=Please explain your definition of scrub line
5 link rear is "interesting"- I have never put my eyes on a 5 link but would love to see a 5 link suspension if you could share pictures.
Rod ends are perfectly normal and DOT approved but just like the bumpsteer adjusters you can see from the latest cars we are building them with 4 bar ends which have urethane bushings
In Texas I have to get an ASE certified master chassis tech to inspect this to get a title. I know it won't pass a legit inspection and I know I wouldn't want to drive it other than on and off the trailer for shows as designed- If i had to trust a ASE certified chassis tech to approve my car for safety I would ride the city bus. Dont hang your hat on that certification as most engineers designing modern cars havent heard of ASE but I am sure they dont know what they are doing either.
If you took the original all steel ford,chevy or plymouth 1930's car and did a crash test, closed coarse test and safety inspection I am extremely confident my car will be just fine!!!!!!!!!!!
Posted By: Crizila
Re: "Custom 33" - 12/15/14 02:11 AM
Quote:and that is what I am looking at for latches - when I get that far.
I don't think the door latches are included, Bear Claw does make a nice set with safety locks, similar to modern latches.
Posted By: Supercuda
Re: "Custom 33" - 12/15/14 04:11 PM
1.
I looked over your pictures. You still have a ladder frame with no provisions to prevent racking. That's where your rectangle turns into a diamond.
Look at the frame in a 38 Plymouth in the link , see the big X in the middle, that is crossbracing.
2.
raising the rack rather than a tall stack of a bumpsteer fix would have been smarter. Cantilevering the outer tierod end is a poor substitute, look up cantilever I do not have time to explain the English language to you.
What about the ackermann? It appears in the pictures that the outer tie rods are inboard the ball joints, not proper in a front steer.
3.
My definition of a scrub line is the same as the world's. If I have to define it for you then you don't know it. If you don't know it did you account for it? scrub line
4.
5 link, if you don't know what it is why are you in the chassis business? 5 LINK - 101
5.
Got the DOT approval letter on those rod ends? I'm guessing no, not really guessing though.
6.
ASE, the state requires the inspection by an ASE certified master mechanic to title a kit car build. I do not care if you ever heard of them as it appears there is much you have never heard of. I do not care if you "trust" one to do a safety inspection as it appears you are pretty much slapping stuff together as cheaply as possible and calling it "good".
What it really looks like to me is that you got yourself a copy of how to build your own T bucket frame and used that as your basis for this chassis.
I looked over your pictures. You still have a ladder frame with no provisions to prevent racking. That's where your rectangle turns into a diamond.
Look at the frame in a 38 Plymouth in the link , see the big X in the middle, that is crossbracing.
2.
raising the rack rather than a tall stack of a bumpsteer fix would have been smarter. Cantilevering the outer tierod end is a poor substitute, look up cantilever I do not have time to explain the English language to you.
What about the ackermann? It appears in the pictures that the outer tie rods are inboard the ball joints, not proper in a front steer.
3.
My definition of a scrub line is the same as the world's. If I have to define it for you then you don't know it. If you don't know it did you account for it? scrub line
4.
5 link, if you don't know what it is why are you in the chassis business? 5 LINK - 101
5.
Got the DOT approval letter on those rod ends? I'm guessing no, not really guessing though.
6.
ASE, the state requires the inspection by an ASE certified master mechanic to title a kit car build. I do not care if you ever heard of them as it appears there is much you have never heard of. I do not care if you "trust" one to do a safety inspection as it appears you are pretty much slapping stuff together as cheaply as possible and calling it "good".
What it really looks like to me is that you got yourself a copy of how to build your own T bucket frame and used that as your basis for this chassis.
Posted By: Crizila
Re: "Custom 33" - 12/15/14 07:54 PM
Quote:Hey Steve ( Mr occupation - yawning ???
1.
I looked over your pictures. You still have a ladder frame with no provisions to prevent racking. That's where your rectangle turns into a diamond.
Look at the frame in a 38 Plymouth in the link , see the big X in the middle, that is crossbracing.
2.
raising the rack rather than a tall stack of a bumpsteer fix would have been smarter. Cantilevering the outer tierod end is a poor substitute, look up cantilever I do not have time to explain the English language to you.
What about the ackermann? It appears in the pictures that the outer tie rods are inboard the ball joints, not proper in a front steer.
3.
My definition of a scrub line is the same as the world's. If I have to define it for you then you don't know it. If you don't know it did you account for it? scrub line
4.
5 link, if you don't know what it is why are you in the chassis business? 5 LINK - 101
5.
Got the DOT approval letter on those rod ends? I'm guessing no, not really guessing though.
6.
ASE, the state requires the inspection by an ASE certified master mechanic to title a kit car build. I do not care if you ever heard of them as it appears there is much you have never heard of. I do not care if you "trust" one to do a safety inspection as it appears you are pretty much slapping stuff together as cheaply as possible and calling it "good".
What it really looks like to me is that you got yourself a copy of how to build your own T bucket frame and used that as your basis for this chassis.
), Pretty good links. Thanks. Racking for sure won't be an issue. 12 3/4" bolts go through 1/4" plate floor and the fiber glass body floor in to the frame center section. 4' length of the frame in the middle will be stuffer than a wedding -----! Ackerman - Outer tie rods are outboard of the kingpin centerline. You had an optical illusion. Haven't really checked scrub line yet. Could be close in some spots. It's on my check list to do when I bust the tires off the rims for painting. Contemplating adding a panhard rod. Probaly drive it as it is first and see how it handles without one. As far a ASE certifications. I'm the buyer. I'm also MASTER certified in both car and truck - and been that way for many years. Although I am proud of it, I also know just how much "water that holds". Many states went the way of Texas. Weak attempt to weed out incompetent's. Unfortunately, most states, like Texas, are automotive clueless, so please save that BS and smartarsed comments for another site ( yawing ). Thanks again for the input and links. John
Posted By: Matt Erich
Re: "Custom 33" - 12/15/14 11:43 PM
I will keep this thread positive by ignoring this post. I hope you enjoy your day and your Cuda.
Quote:
1.
I looked over your pictures. You still have a ladder frame with no provisions to prevent racking. That's where your rectangle turns into a diamond.
Look at the frame in a 38 Plymouth in the link , see the big X in the middle, that is crossbracing.
2.
raising the rack rather than a tall stack of a bumpsteer fix would have been smarter. Cantilevering the outer tierod end is a poor substitute, look up cantilever I do not have time to explain the English language to you.
What about the ackermann? It appears in the pictures that the outer tie rods are inboard the ball joints, not proper in a front steer.
3.
My definition of a scrub line is the same as the world's. If I have to define it for you then you don't know it. If you don't know it did you account for it? scrub line
4.
5 link, if you don't know what it is why are you in the chassis business? 5 LINK - 101
5.
Got the DOT approval letter on those rod ends? I'm guessing no, not really guessing though.
6.
ASE, the state requires the inspection by an ASE certified master mechanic to title a kit car build. I do not care if you ever heard of them as it appears there is much you have never heard of. I do not care if you "trust" one to do a safety inspection as it appears you are pretty much slapping stuff together as cheaply as possible and calling it "good".
What it really looks like to me is that you got yourself a copy of how to build your own T bucket frame and used that as your basis for this chassis.
Posted By: poorboy
Re: "Custom 33" - 12/16/14 12:55 AM
Quote:
1.
I looked over your pictures. You still have a ladder frame with no provisions to prevent racking. That's where your rectangle turns into a diamond.
Look at the frame in a 38 Plymouth in the link , see the big X in the middle, that is crossbracing.
2.
raising the rack rather than a tall stack of a bumpsteer fix would have been smarter. Cantilevering the outer tierod end is a poor substitute, look up cantilever I do not have time to explain the English language to you.
What about the ackermann? It appears in the pictures that the outer tie rods are inboard the ball joints, not proper in a front steer.
3.
My definition of a scrub line is the same as the world's. If I have to define it for you then you don't know it. If you don't know it did you account for it? scrub line
By the pictures I saw, Scrub line was pretty good, that's not something you can accurately see from the pictures provided. Beside that, in this day and age, there are a lot of buyers that would lower things so they could scrape frame.
4.
5 link, if you don't know what it is why are you in the chassis business? 5 LINK - 101
5.
Got the DOT approval letter on those rod ends? I'm guessing no, not really guessing though.
6.
ASE, the state requires the inspection by an ASE certified master mechanic to title a kit car build. I do not care if you ever heard of them as it appears there is much you have never heard of. I do not care if you "trust" one to do a safety inspection as it appears you are pretty much slapping stuff together as cheaply as possible and calling it "good".
What it really looks like to me is that you got yourself a copy of how to build your own T bucket frame and used that as your basis for this chassis.
1) I had an 80 Dodge 4x4 that diamonded when it got wrecked, and there isn't much bracing to prevent my 93 Dakota ladder frame from diamonding in a crash either. Dodge, and a lot of other manufacturers have been making straight ladder frames for years, that is a pretty lame excuse.
2) It sounds like this has already been addressed, but even if not, it can be easily addressed. This would not be a deal breaker to me.
I don't see how you can clearly say if the Ackerman is good or not by the pictures provided, angles are just not right to clearly see.
3) By the pictures I saw, Scrub line looks pretty good, that's not something you can accurately see from the pictures provided. Beside that, in this day and age, there are a lot of buyers that would lower things so they could scrape frame.
4) Why didn't you just say 4 link with a panhard bar? Beside that, all I saw was a 4 link.
5) Really? Even the NSRA allows those tie rod ends through their inspection if a washer is present. Most states accept NSRA safety inspection as a legal inspection process, I'm sorry for you that Texas is not among them.
6) I gave up my ASA cert when I gave up wrenching for a living because of a health issue. You have pretty bold talk for someone who really doesn't have any idea who you are speaking with. Having spent many hours with ASA certified Techs, I can tell you I have little faith in the testing system. The fact that Texas seems to think so highly of a set of papers, kind of bothers me just a little, but it is what it is. I'm curious what kind of Doc you think I should be seeing? A guy like me might be doing the safety inspection on your next car.....
So, when do we get to inspect the frames you build? Since you can clearly see what's wrong with what everyone else does, the frame you build must be perfect, and you need to show us so the rest of us can come up to speed. Have you ever built one from scratch? Gene
Posted By: Matt Erich
Re: "Custom 33" - 12/16/14 01:59 AM
I am the guy that built and designed this chassis so I am clearly the stupid person on this board but if you know simple trigonometry you dont need the said "5th" link in a 4 link suspension. If you wanted the panhard bar you could of saved yourself some time and money by building it a 3 link suspension. Everybody builds chassis's different but hey Merry Christmas Friends!!!!!!!! 
Posted By: moparx
Re: "Custom 33" - 12/16/14 03:38 AM
if you were to weld that 1/4" plate floor to the top of the chassis, just try to rack it then. it would take one hell of a whack to do that, and there would be more important things to worry about , such as the health of the occupants. my state uses the nsra specs for streetrod inspection, and the asa testing can just be a "bought" deal if you know how to take a standardized test. lots of those jokers working at the dealerships around here that can't fix anything in 4 or 5 attempts. not saying all asa certed techs are nimrods, but there are sure a bunch of 'em that are. happy holidays.
Posted By: Crizila
Re: "Custom 33" - 12/16/14 04:10 AM
The government I worked for ( for 31 years ) paid me a 5% bonus to become and remain ASE certified. I am long since retired - and they remain clueless to this day. 
Posted By: Matt Erich
Re: "Custom 33" - 01/02/15 01:19 AM
The website has finally been updated with new pictures showing the latest chassis improvements. www.custom33.com
Posted By: Supercuda
Re: "Custom 33" - 01/04/15 08:00 PM
Quote:
The website has finally been updated with new pictures showing the latest chassis improvements. www.custom33.com
lol
Damn near everything I bitched about with your old chassis is "fixed" in your new.
Might want to crib notes from here.
Posted By: Crizila
Re: "Custom 33" - 01/05/15 01:02 AM
Thanks for the web sight link. Lots of good tech info.
Fuel system is almost complete. Aluminum 13 gal tank is from RCI. It will be a dead head system ( no return line - although the tank is bunged for one ). Small 3-4 psi electric pump will be located near the rear frame kick up to keep the line charged to a mechanical pump at the motor. Should eliminate any vapor lock issues that may arise.
Fuel system is almost complete. Aluminum 13 gal tank is from RCI. It will be a dead head system ( no return line - although the tank is bunged for one ). Small 3-4 psi electric pump will be located near the rear frame kick up to keep the line charged to a mechanical pump at the motor. Should eliminate any vapor lock issues that may arise.
Posted By: Crizila
Re: "Custom 33" - 01/05/15 01:13 AM
tank
Posted By: Crizila
Re: "Custom 33" - 01/05/15 01:13 AM
Tank cover
Posted By: Matt Erich
Re: "Custom 33" - 01/05/15 03:28 AM
Thank you for the inspiration
Quote:Quote:
The website has finally been updated with new pictures showing the latest chassis improvements. www.custom33.com
lol
Damn near everything I bitched about with your old chassis is "fixed" in your new.
Might want to crib notes from here.
Posted By: Matt Erich
Re: "Custom 33" - 01/19/15 03:04 AM
Shop picture that shows half of the steel interior. We will add additional bracing later this week.
Posted By: Matt Erich
Re: "Custom 33" - 01/19/15 03:08 AM
2nd Picture
Posted By: moparx
Re: "Custom 33" - 01/19/15 03:52 AM
what is the purpose of the oval holes on the outer perimeter of the floor plates ? if used for access to hide wiring, is there a box section below them, and what thickness[ga.] is it ?
Posted By: Matt Erich
Re: "Custom 33" - 01/20/15 05:41 AM
The body is channeled so you have a valley under the holes. Many customers hide wires but the main purpose of the holes are to access the bolts that hold the fenders to the body.
Posted By: Matt Erich
Re: "Custom 33" - 01/21/15 01:10 AM
The plate is 1/4 inch thick. Sorry I overlooked that question.
Posted By: Matt Erich
Re: "Custom 33" - 01/22/15 08:04 PM
Some pictures of the cars being built in Australia
Posted By: Matt Erich
Re: "Custom 33" - 01/22/15 08:04 PM
Another
Posted By: Matt Erich
Re: "Custom 33" - 01/22/15 08:05 PM
another view
Posted By: Matt Erich
Re: "Custom 33" - 01/22/15 08:06 PM
Last
Posted By: poorboy
Re: "Custom 33" - 01/22/15 08:36 PM
Quote:
Some pictures of the cars being built in Australia
Is the additional bracing something you add to all the bodies, or is it a requirement for glass cars sent to Australia, or an extra expense customer request? Gene
Posted By: Matt Erich
Re: "Custom 33" - 01/23/15 01:04 AM
Everything that you see except the trunk steel structure is supplied by custom33. When we finished making a template for the trunk we will start offering the trunk also.
Posted By: moparx
Re: "Custom 33" - 01/23/15 12:19 PM
it looks like the bracing is 1"x 16ga. tube ? or ?
Posted By: Matt Erich
Re: "Custom 33" - 01/23/15 10:57 PM
Correct
Posted By: 67HEMI
Re: "Custom 33" - 01/28/15 12:35 AM
Would there be room for this and a Torqueflite if we left the hood off and put on a pair of zoomies?
I am seriously considering building a street rod or buying a rolling chassis to put this in.
Posted By: Matt Erich
Re: "Custom 33" - 01/28/15 04:43 PM
Great talking to you about the potential build! If you order a car we will make the motor fit. That is the nice part about having the jig at the shop.
I would think you would have Mopar Magazines begging you for a cover picture of the car with that motor!
I would think you would have Mopar Magazines begging you for a cover picture of the car with that motor!
Posted By: Crizila
Re: "Custom 33" - 01/28/15 04:53 PM
Quote:Here is left side clearance with hugger headers on a 360. Zoomies would be mandatory.
Would there be room for this and a Torqueflite if we left the hood off and put on a pair of zoomies?
I am seriously considering building a street rod or buying a rolling chassis to put this in.
Posted By: Matt Erich
Re: "Custom 33" - 01/28/15 11:02 PM
I bet you could use those headers and put them on the outside of the rails John!
Posted By: Matt Erich
Re: "Custom 33" - 01/29/15 10:52 PM
John has been hard at work with the brake system! Nice clean work I would say!
Posted By: Matt Erich
Re: "Custom 33" - 01/29/15 10:53 PM
additional
Posted By: Matt Erich
Re: "Custom 33" - 01/29/15 10:53 PM
additional pics
Posted By: Matt Erich
Re: "Custom 33" - 01/29/15 10:54 PM
Few more
Posted By: 67HEMI
Re: "Custom 33" - 02/06/15 04:13 AM
Quote:Quote:Here is left side clearance with hugger headers on a 360. Zoomies would be mandatory.
Would there be room for this and a Torqueflite if we left the hood off and put on a pair of zoomies?
I am seriously considering building a street rod or buying a rolling chassis to put this in.
Keep posting your innovations and ideas. Matt and I made a deal that has my friends and family thinking I need to be committed but Matt is hard at work making a chassis for big tires and the HEMI to fit in. This street rod business is new to me but I think with a lot of time and money I can build a decent rod. I sure am going to miss my Coronet till I hear those zoomies fire to life in a Black big tired 33 Plymouth!
Posted By: Crizila
Re: "Custom 33" - 02/06/15 04:32 PM
Mocking up the hood / fenders /grill shell.
Posted By: 67HEMI
Re: "Custom 33" - 02/06/15 11:55 PM
Quote:
Mocking up the hood / fenders /grill shell.
Looking good John! Where did you get your windshield and is it Lexan or glass? Matt should have my modified frame finished next week!
Posted By: Crizila
Re: "Custom 33" - 02/07/15 01:03 AM
Hey Dave, went with safety glass all the way around. Auto glass guy up in my area cut them. Anxious to see what your frame looks like.
Posted By: Crizila
Re: "Custom 33" - 02/15/15 05:22 AM
When mocking up the fenders / running boards on my 33, there were some areas that were difficult to reach with a wrench. My solution: Tac welded some 1/4 - 20 nuts to fender wadshers. Bolted up the fender / running board. After everything was located properly, I glass resined the washers in position using an extended handle on a solder brush. Now when I disassemble for painting, the nuts stay in place making reassemble easy and the load is speread over a large area.
Posted By: Crizila
Re: "Custom 33" - 02/15/15 05:24 AM
Fender bolt up. Glass parts have a great fit up.
Posted By: moparx
Re: "Custom 33" - 02/15/15 03:12 PM
Quote:
When mocking up the fenders / running boards on my 33, there were some areas that were difficult to reach with a wrench. My solution: Tac welded some 1/4 - 20 nuts to fender wadshers. Bolted up the fender / running board. After everything was located properly, I glass resined the washers in position using an extended handle on a solder brush. Now when I disassemble for painting, the nuts stay in place making reassemble easy and the load is speread over a large area.
good solution !
you are doing a quality build !
Posted By: Crizila
Re: "Custom 33" - 02/15/15 03:39 PM
Quote:Thanks.Quote:
When mocking up the fenders / running boards on my 33, there were some areas that were difficult to reach with a wrench. My solution: Tac welded some 1/4 - 20 nuts to fender wadshers. Bolted up the fender / running board. After everything was located properly, I glass resined the washers in position using an extended handle on a solder brush. Now when I disassemble for painting, the nuts stay in place making reassemble easy and the load is speread over a large area.
good solution !
Posted By: 67HEMI
Re: "Custom 33" - 02/15/15 04:22 PM
Good ideas John and a great looking build so far. I am supposed to go get mine next weekend. Can't wait to get started on it. I already have my tires,wheels,seats and guages picked out.
Posted By: Crizila
Re: "Custom 33" - 02/15/15 06:14 PM
Quote:Cool Dave! Let me know if I can be of any help. BTW, I have several 300's - 10 years newer than yours.
Good ideas John and a great looking build so far. I am supposed to go get mine next weekend. Can't wait to get started on it. I already have my tires,wheels,seats and guages picked out.
Posted By: 67HEMI
Re: "Custom 33" - 02/16/15 01:59 AM
Quote:Quote:Cool Dave! Let me know if I can be of any help. BTW, I have several 300's - 10 years newer than yours.
Good ideas John and a great looking build so far. I am supposed to go get mine next weekend. Can't wait to get started on it. I already have my tires,wheels,seats and guages picked out.
I only have the one and trust me yours are in much better shape! Thanks for the help!
Posted By: 67HEMI
Re: "Custom 33" - 02/18/15 03:57 AM
Quote:
Hey Dave, went with safety glass all the way around. Auto glass guy up in my area cut them. Anxious to see what your frame looks like.
John this is the narrowed version of my frame with the rear tires and wheels I am using. Hope to meet Matt this weekend and do the "swap".
Posted By: Crizila
Re: "Custom 33" - 02/18/15 07:17 AM
Quote:Interesting. Is he making any fiberglass mods to accommodate those monster meats?Quote:
Hey Dave, went with safety glass all the way around. Auto glass guy up in my area cut them. Anxious to see what your frame looks like.
John this is the narrowed version of my frame with the rear tires and wheels I am using. Hope to meet Matt this weekend and do the "swap".
Posted By: Matt Erich
Re: "Custom 33" - 02/18/15 09:21 AM
The body has been altered to accommodate the large rear tires. This has been a very large project but it turning out very nice. I will post the pictures when its fully completed.
Posted By: moparx
Re: "Custom 33" - 02/19/15 03:37 AM
Quote:Quote:
Hey Dave, went with safety glass all the way around. Auto glass guy up in my area cut them. Anxious to see what your frame looks like.
John this is the narrowed version of my frame with the rear tires and wheels I am using. Hope to meet Matt this weekend and do the "swap".
i think your pinion angle needs some work.
just kidding ! how much clearance is there between the side wall and the frame rail ? also, how much tub area was added to the body from stock ?
Posted By: Matt Erich
Re: "Custom 33" - 02/19/15 06:18 AM
The car was narrowed 7" and the body has been tubbed 9" He has 1" between tire and frame and 2" between tire and fender. Here is another pictures of the car with the body down on it.
Posted By: Matt Erich
Re: "Custom 33" - 02/23/15 03:24 AM
David's new 1933 Plymouth Coupe loaded on the trailer. The 2 feet of snow didnt stop this build.
Posted By: Matt Erich
Re: "Custom 33" - 02/23/15 03:25 AM
front view
Posted By: Matt Erich
Re: "Custom 33" - 02/23/15 03:27 AM
Loaded in the trailer and headed home. David has a new project for this spring! Please call or msg on here if you have any questions about Custom33 cars or builds!
Posted By: Crizila
Re: "Custom 33" - 02/24/15 04:25 PM
Since my 33 is going to be a "driver", it needed wipers. Went with a universal kit from "Specialty Power Windows". Nice kit. Great instructions. They wanted the wiper arm posts to be at 90* from the windshield - couldn't get there with the 33 and had to settle for about 70*. Wood blades are for moc-up only until I get the window trim installed and I know just what blade length I can use.
Posted By: Crizila
Re: "Custom 33" - 02/24/15 04:29 PM
Outside pick w/blades "at rest".
Posted By: Crizila
Re: "Custom 33" - 02/28/15 04:00 PM
Battery location.
Posted By: Crizila
Re: "Custom 33" - 02/28/15 04:02 PM
Nuther pic.
Posted By: 67HEMI
Re: "Custom 33" - 03/11/15 04:09 PM
I like the wiper setup and the battery John.....now what is behind door # 2 on the left? 
Posted By: Crizila
Re: "Custom 33" - 03/12/15 04:43 AM
Quote:Wife requested it???
I like the wiper setup and the battery John.....now what is behind door # 2 on the left?
Posted By: Crizila
Re: "Custom 33" - 03/18/15 11:40 PM
If you are not running a SB Chev, be prepared to do a lot of bracket fabing. I actually was able to use a Chevy mount for the compressor with some modifications. Probably be time and $ ahead if I just bought a Chevy crate motor and slapped a Moper decal on the valve covers.
Posted By: Crizila
Re: "Custom 33" - 03/18/15 11:42 PM
from the top
Posted By: moparpollack
Re: "Custom 33" - 03/19/15 02:05 AM
Yup they are hard to come by.
Posted By: moparx
Re: "Custom 33" - 03/20/15 01:54 AM
Quote:
If you are not running a SB Chev, be prepared to do a lot of bracket fabing. I actually was able to use a Chevy mount for the compressor with some modifications. Probably be time and $ ahead if I just bought a Chevy crate motor and slapped a Moper decal on the valve covers.
the brackets look good ! what is your pulley ratio between the crank and water pump ? or what is the diameter of each ?
Posted By: Crizila
Re: "Custom 33" - 03/20/15 05:20 AM
Quote:.88:1 ( crank is 5.75" and pump pulley is 6.5". Not too concerned with the H2O pump output, but alternator (75amp) to crank ratio is 2.09:1. Most street stuff is 3:1. Might be a little slow at idle. Running a 3.55 gear, so no problems at cruise. Alternator is a 1 wire Power Master and it has a hi rise time, which should help. Gotta try it and see.Quote:
If you are not running a SB Chev, be prepared to do a lot of bracket fabing. I actually was able to use a Chevy mount for the compressor with some modifications. Probably be time and $ ahead if I just bought a Chevy crate motor and slapped a Moper decal on the valve covers.
the brackets look good ! what is your pulley ratio between the crank and water pump ? or what is the diameter of each ?
Posted By: 67HEMI
Re: "Custom 33" - 03/22/15 04:42 PM
I chose not to use a chevy motor in mine. Not going to have a/c either so I just took 4 inches out of the firewall for ventilation and to make room for the powerplant!
Posted By: 67HEMI
Re: "Custom 33" - 03/22/15 04:47 PM
Got the HEMI set in so I can mock up some mounting tabs.
Posted By: 67HEMI
Re: "Custom 33" - 03/22/15 04:49 PM
"Roadkill" view.
Posted By: 67HEMI
Re: "Custom 33" - 03/22/15 04:51 PM
Drivers view.
Posted By: Crizila
Re: "Custom 33" - 03/22/15 06:38 PM
Holley Bat, Crap man!!!! We need to swap motors from my 300.
Posted By: Matt Erich
Re: "Custom 33" - 04/08/15 03:18 PM
We have a special for the rest of April. We will be giving a 1k discount to the first 2 kits purchased this month. Just passing the word along.
Posted By: fstfish66
Re: "Custom 33" - 04/09/15 07:38 AM
Originally Posted By 67HEMI
Drivers view.
[color:#000099][/color]sweeet,,,,,
Posted By: Crizila
Re: "Custom 33" - 05/02/15 09:50 PM
my "Custom 33" Plymouth progress.
Posted By: Crizila
Re: "Custom 33" - 05/02/15 09:51 PM
few more
Posted By: Crizila
Re: "Custom 33" - 05/02/15 09:54 PM
and a few mo
Posted By: moparx
Re: "Custom 33" - 05/03/15 12:35 PM
very nice ! [but you need a longer upper radiator hose. 
]
]
Posted By: Matt Erich
Re: "Custom 33" - 05/04/15 10:29 PM
Looking Great!
Posted By: Crizila
Re: "Custom 33" - 05/20/15 05:58 AM
Originally Posted By moparx
very nice ! [but you need a longer upper radiator hose. ]
] 
Posted By: Crizila
Re: "Custom 33" - 05/20/15 05:59 AM
Powder coated wheels.
Posted By: Crizila
Re: "Custom 33" - 05/20/15 08:44 PM
I actually now have 2 pedals in the car 
.
.
Posted By: 67HEMI
Re: "Custom 33" - 05/22/15 03:31 AM
Looking good John! I am still piling up parts waiting on my firewall that is being made.
Posted By: moparx
Re: "Custom 33" - 05/22/15 01:04 PM
you are making great progress ! 
i wished i lived closer. a ride would be lots of fun. oh, by the way. nice upper hose now !
i wished i lived closer. a ride would be lots of fun. oh, by the way. nice upper hose now !
Posted By: Crizila
Re: "Custom 33" - 06/14/15 03:07 PM
Am I having fun yet? Good thing the wires are marked every foot . Hinged the fuse panel for easier access when things catch on fire. . Decided to go all Chrysler with the ignition system - since I had many of the components "in stock". Relay, resister, ign box all on one "grounded" aluminum plate.
. Hinged the fuse panel for easier access when things catch on fire. . Decided to go all Chrysler with the ignition system - since I had many of the components "in stock". Relay, resister, ign box all on one "grounded" aluminum plate.
Posted By: Matt Erich
Re: "Custom 33" - 06/21/15 07:13 PM
We all drive or build street rods because we love them. Before you pick the next project please consider the safety of it when finished. This is the new steel interior installed on a 1933 Roadster by Custom33. Steel cage and floor pans come standard with all kits!
Posted By: Matt Erich
Re: "Custom 33" - 07/09/15 06:38 AM
Here is a sneak peek at the new Custom33 shirts! We will be releasing addition apparel this Summer. If interested in shirts please email or msg us until the website is updated! The shirts are $20.00 each
Posted By: Crizila
Re: "Custom 33" - 07/10/15 05:35 AM
Originally Posted By Matt Erich
Here is a sneak peek at the new Custom33 shirts! We will be releasing addition apparel this Summer. If interested in shirts please email or msg us until the website is updated! The shirts are $20.00 each
Posted By: Crizila
Re: "Custom 33" - 07/23/15 04:51 AM
Progress report; HVAC is mostly in, wired, and plumbed.
Posted By: Crizila
Re: "Custom 33" - 07/23/15 04:54 AM
Vintage air mini unit was the only thing I could squeeze under the cowl.
Posted By: Crizila
Re: "Custom 33" - 07/23/15 06:02 AM
Nerf bars
Posted By: Crizila
Re: "Custom 33" - 07/23/15 06:05 AM
2 - 30 pound gas shocks worked nicely to hold the trunk lid open.
Posted By: Crizila
Re: "Custom 33" - 07/24/15 03:19 AM
Custom 33 door jam / dome light switch solution.
Posted By: moparx
Re: "Custom 33" - 07/24/15 03:45 AM
Originally Posted By Crizila
Custom 33 door jam / dome light switch solution.
that is a neat solution. mind if i "swipe" that idea ?
Posted By: Crizila
Re: "Custom 33" - 07/24/15 04:16 AM
Originally Posted By moparx
Originally Posted By Crizila
Custom 33 door jam / dome light switch solution.
that is a neat solution. mind if i "swipe" that idea ?
Posted By: moparx
Re: "Custom 33" - 07/26/15 12:53 PM
have you thought about a "suicide door lock" ? if so, would it be power or manual ?
Posted By: Crizila
Re: "Custom 33" - 07/26/15 03:33 PM
Originally Posted By moparx
have you thought about a "suicide door lock" ? if so, would it be power or manual ?
Posted By: Matt Erich
Re: "Custom 33" - 07/27/15 07:25 PM
Here is the latest build for a customer in Florida. We finalized the color combo and will have this finished very soon.
Posted By: rattler
Re: "Custom 33" - 07/30/15 03:02 AM
Hey Matt, thought you should know, one of your customers David (67hemi), suffered a stroke a couple of weeks ago. I am sure David will recover and finish his car, it will just take a little longer than planned.
Posted By: Matt Erich
Re: "Custom 33" - 07/30/15 07:25 PM
I have been in contact with his wife since it happened. I consider all my customers friend and check up on them and the builds very frequently. Hopefully he recovers quickly and back to 100%
Posted By: Crizila
Re: "Custom 33" - 07/31/15 05:11 AM
Power windows finally installed. Not a simple task on a door that is 3" wide ( ID ) at it's widest and the bottom of the door tapers down to about an inch. Did I mention the door is also curved!! Only system that would remotely work was "Specialty Power Windows" kit. As you can see from the pics, I had to do some home grown mounting work to gain the room I needed. Biggest problem was the taper at the bottom of the door - where the power window motor sits - ugh!
Posted By: Crizila
Re: "Custom 33" - 07/31/15 05:19 AM
Got all the holes drilled in the dash and council. Dash, lt. to rt. = A/C heat vent, wiper switch, speedo, LED light for cooling fan system, Gauge cluster, below that HVAC controls, A/C heat vent. Council will house radio, speakers, clock, clock set button.
Posted By: Crizila
Re: "Custom 33" - 07/31/15 05:21 AM
Added a little twist to the nerf bars.
Posted By: Crizila
Re: "Custom 33" - 08/17/15 04:06 PM
Went with a simple exhaust system. No cross-over - straight through stainless "Borla's". Might have some loud issues down the road, so I went with stainless band clamps on the muffs for easier change if need be. Pipes will be black powder coated with heat paint.
Posted By: rickstershemi
Re: "Custom 33" - 08/18/15 12:33 AM
Looks awesome.....is there room for a cross over pipe and be tucked up neatly....if one was desired...????
Posted By: Crizila
Re: "Custom 33" - 08/18/15 04:42 AM
Ya, I have room for an "H" pipe between the trans pan and trans mount and might do that at a later date. Finally turned one corner today and started disassembling it for paint. Frame will be powder coated black. Then body, fenders, cowl, hood back together and on the frame for painting.
Posted By: Crizila
Re: "Custom 33" - 08/30/15 08:48 PM
As of yesterday, I took delivery of my 33 Plymouth from "Custom 33" one year ago. All systems have been installed (and tested where feasible ) and I am now in the process of disassembly for paint and interior ( last 2 big financial hits). Wife has been keeping financial track of everything ( I like to take my hits up front ). Frame and some suspension pieces will be powder coated. Keeping to my original plan - respectable show piece with street functionality taking priority. Long trips attainable and 1/4 mile times in the mid to high 12's.
). Frame and some suspension pieces will be powder coated. Keeping to my original plan - respectable show piece with street functionality taking priority. Long trips attainable and 1/4 mile times in the mid to high 12's.
Posted By: feets
Re: "Custom 33" - 09/01/15 08:12 PM
Looks good!
Posted By: Crizila
Re: "Custom 33" - 09/12/15 10:18 PM
Next stop after welding engine mounts, etc, will be to the powder coater.
Posted By: Crizila
Re: "Custom 33" - 09/30/15 05:23 AM
Chassis back from powder coating and suspension hung back on. Most suspension pieces were done in Por 15 satin black. Next step will be to reinstall body, fenders, cowl, hood and send off for paint / interior work. Some wiring and brake master cyls will remain under the cowl and bagged. All else is outa there. got some junk wheels and tires to make it a "roller".
Posted By: dogdays
Re: "Custom 33" - 09/30/15 05:35 PM
Please remind me how to apply POR-15. Spray or brush? Or how?
Thanks,
R.
Thanks,
R.
Posted By: Crizila
Re: "Custom 33" - 09/30/15 07:38 PM
Originally Posted By dogdays
Please remind me how to apply POR-15. Spray or brush? Or how?
Thanks,
R.
Thanks,
R.
Posted By: moparx
Re: "Custom 33" - 10/01/15 01:25 AM
it's nice to see progress is being made ! but one thing jumps out at me concerning your trailer hitch. in using what amounts to be an open channel, it seems that opens up a good opportunity for a twisting, or a collapse of the drop due to insufficient gusseting, even though it appears to be made of thick enough [1/4" ?] material. and even if the trailer is a light loaded deal, i have seen similar setups twist up like a pretzel during my brothers stint as a "gofer" for the local u-haul dealer in his younger years. you have done excellent work so far, so please don't take this as a slam. i sure would hate to see anything happen when you are done, then have to go back and re do the hitch.
but one thing jumps out at me concerning your trailer hitch. in using what amounts to be an open channel, it seems that opens up a good opportunity for a twisting, or a collapse of the drop due to insufficient gusseting, even though it appears to be made of thick enough [1/4" ?] material. and even if the trailer is a light loaded deal, i have seen similar setups twist up like a pretzel during my brothers stint as a "gofer" for the local u-haul dealer in his younger years. you have done excellent work so far, so please don't take this as a slam. i sure would hate to see anything happen when you are done, then have to go back and re do the hitch.
Posted By: Crizila
Re: "Custom 33" - 10/01/15 04:23 PM
Thanks for the hitch input. Had to drop the receiver down that far to clear the rear roll pan. Yes, 1/4" plate for mount. Empty trailer weight ( fiberglass box on a simple square frame ) is approx. 350 lbs ( tires and all ). Can't see it over 1000 lbs. gross. For and aft won't be a problem, but might consider "boxing in" the down section to address your twisting concerns. Thanks again for the input.
Posted By: rickstershemi
Re: "Custom 33" - 10/02/15 01:15 AM
Looks awesome !!!!!
Rickster
Rickster
Posted By: dogdays
Re: "Custom 33" - 10/02/15 07:29 PM
Re: trailer hitch
1. Needs to be boxed for sideways loads. Even pulling the trailer around a curve will cause it to deflect sideways and probably twist.
2. Rear crossmember appears to be a C-channel, which is very weak in torsion. Meaning the trailer hitch is going to cause it to twist. I'd suggest boxing it for at least 3/4 of the total length, boxing centered in the middle. In other words you could leave 6" or so open on each side to allow wiring, etc to be run inside the box. The box doesn't need to be real thick, but 3/16" would be good is my SWAG.
It all looks so clean, makes me wish for a garage.....
R.
1. Needs to be boxed for sideways loads. Even pulling the trailer around a curve will cause it to deflect sideways and probably twist.
2. Rear crossmember appears to be a C-channel, which is very weak in torsion. Meaning the trailer hitch is going to cause it to twist. I'd suggest boxing it for at least 3/4 of the total length, boxing centered in the middle. In other words you could leave 6" or so open on each side to allow wiring, etc to be run inside the box. The box doesn't need to be real thick, but 3/16" would be good is my SWAG.
It all looks so clean, makes me wish for a garage.....
R.
Posted By: Crizila
Re: "Custom 33" - 10/02/15 10:02 PM
Originally Posted By dogdays
Re: trailer hitch
1. Needs to be boxed for sideways loads. Even pulling the trailer around a curve will cause it to deflect sideways and probably twist.
2. Rear crossmember appears to be a C-channel, which is very weak in torsion. Meaning the trailer hitch is going to cause it to twist. I'd suggest boxing it for at least 3/4 of the total length, boxing centered in the middle. In other words you could leave 6" or so open on each side to allow wiring, etc to be run inside the box. The box doesn't need to be real thick, but 3/16" would be good is my SWAG.
It all looks so clean, makes me wish for a garage.....
R.
1. Needs to be boxed for sideways loads. Even pulling the trailer around a curve will cause it to deflect sideways and probably twist.
2. Rear crossmember appears to be a C-channel, which is very weak in torsion. Meaning the trailer hitch is going to cause it to twist. I'd suggest boxing it for at least 3/4 of the total length, boxing centered in the middle. In other words you could leave 6" or so open on each side to allow wiring, etc to be run inside the box. The box doesn't need to be real thick, but 3/16" would be good is my SWAG.
It all looks so clean, makes me wish for a garage.....
R.
Posted By: Crizila
Re: "Custom 33" - 10/17/15 05:21 AM
After a little over 1 year of work, it went off to paint and interior today.
Posted By: moparx
Re: "Custom 33" - 10/18/15 11:19 AM
Originally Posted By Crizila
After a little over 1 year of work, it went off to paint and interior today.
you,sir, shall be congratulated for making excellent progress on a fine,fun ride.
i wish i lived closer so i could talk you into giving me a ride when it emerges all shiny and comfortable ! can't wait until the final results !
Posted By: Crizila
Re: "Custom 33" - 10/18/15 04:54 PM
Thank you. I hope you are right and I won't have to send it back to the manufacturer for too many recalls. 
Posted By: Crizila
Re: "Custom 33" - 11/06/15 10:40 PM
Well, the Chassis is loaded and ready to go when ever the body comes back from paint and interior. Peace a cake putting stuff on the chassis without the body in place. Relocating the alternator low and left has just about made reading the timing marks impossible, so I'm thinking of relocating them to the passenger side ( side the hood will open up on anyway). Boxed in the trailer hitch receiver. Receiver will also hold license plate when I am not towing - have yet to fab up. I'm thinking the exhaust system might be a little loud with straight through Borla's. Might change later. Light at the end of the tunnel is now a night light size.
Relocating the alternator low and left has just about made reading the timing marks impossible, so I'm thinking of relocating them to the passenger side ( side the hood will open up on anyway). Boxed in the trailer hitch receiver. Receiver will also hold license plate when I am not towing - have yet to fab up. I'm thinking the exhaust system might be a little loud with straight through Borla's. Might change later. Light at the end of the tunnel is now a night light size.
Posted By: Crizila
Re: "Custom 33" - 11/06/15 10:42 PM
few more pics
Posted By: moparx
Re: "Custom 33" - 11/07/15 01:36 PM
looks good john. i wish i was about 1/4 as much along as you are on my humpback ! keep after it. you should be running by early next year ?
i wish i was about 1/4 as much along as you are on my humpback ! keep after it. you should be running by early next year ?
Posted By: Crizila
Re: "Custom 33" - 11/07/15 03:31 PM
Thanks Moparx! Ya, shootin for about mid summer to get it on the road - if all works out.
Posted By: Crizila
Re: "Custom 33" - 11/26/15 08:14 PM
Getting closer. Body is in paint and interior is coming together.
Posted By: moparx
Re: "Custom 33" - 11/27/15 03:57 PM
i didn't realize what color your were going with. i like that choice a lot !
Posted By: Crizila
Re: "Custom 33" - 11/27/15 06:32 PM
Originally Posted By moparx
i didn't realize what color your were going with. i like that choice a lot !
Posted By: Crizila
Re: "Custom 33" - 12/10/15 04:56 PM
in paint.
Posted By: Crizila
Re: "Custom 33" - 12/10/15 04:57 PM
A few more
Posted By: rickstershemi
Re: "Custom 33" - 12/10/15 06:53 PM
Looks Awesome...Love the color...Hurry UP....LOL
Rickster
Rickster
Posted By: moparx
Re: "Custom 33" - 12/10/15 08:38 PM
WOW ! 
stunning to say the least ! excellent color choice; you shouldn't see too many at the cruise like that ! sure wish i lived closer to see it in person.
stunning to say the least ! excellent color choice; you shouldn't see too many at the cruise like that ! sure wish i lived closer to see it in person.
Posted By: cudaman1969
Re: "Custom 33" - 12/10/15 10:42 PM
Originally Posted By Crizila
After a little over 1 year of work, it went off to paint and interior today.
I like the gangster wheel look, I know there'r junk wheels but so cool.
Posted By: rickstershemi
Re: "Custom 33" - 12/11/15 12:31 AM
I think i'd like to see the exhaust exit through the roll pan...???
Rickster
Rickster
Posted By: Crizila
Re: "Custom 33" - 12/11/15 02:58 AM
Wheel Vintique smoothies will probably get trim rings and center caps. Roll pan will have nerf bars going through it.
Posted By: Crizila
Re: "Custom 33" - 01/19/16 02:50 AM
Interior, dash is finally in. Getting close to firing it up. 
Posted By: Crizila
Re: "Custom 33" - 01/19/16 02:52 AM
few more
Posted By: poorboy
Re: "Custom 33" - 01/19/16 03:26 AM
OOOOOOOO! That's pretty! Gene
Posted By: moparpollack
Re: "Custom 33" - 01/19/16 05:34 AM
Will it be at the Goodguys Scottsdale?
Posted By: Crizila
Re: "Custom 33" - 01/19/16 03:42 PM
Depends on the # of recalls. Gonna fire it up today. 
Gonna fire it up today.
Posted By: moparx
Re: "Custom 33" - 01/19/16 03:59 PM
very nice, just like the rest of the car ! does your headliner have one bow ? how, or what is it constructed of and how is it attached ?
Posted By: Matt Erich
Re: "Custom 33" - 01/20/16 02:19 AM
Very nice build John!!!! Cant wait to see it in person soon!
Posted By: Crizila
Re: "Custom 33" - 01/20/16 02:43 AM
Originally Posted By moparx
very nice, just like the rest of the car ! does your headliner have one bow ? how, or what is it constructed of and how is it attached ?
Posted By: Crizila
Re: "Custom 33" - 01/20/16 02:49 AM
Originally Posted By Matt Erich
Very nice build John!!!! Cant wait to see it in person soon!
Posted By: dagohman
Re: "Custom 33" - 01/23/16 05:13 AM
Very nice!!! Love the color.
You do awesome work, I start out with good intentions but the end results are not that nice..lol
You do awesome work, I start out with good intentions but the end results are not that nice..lol
Posted By: Crizila
Re: "Custom 33" - 01/23/16 06:04 AM
Originally Posted By dagohman
Very nice!!! Love the color.
You do awesome work, I start out with good intentions but the end results are not that nice..lol
You do awesome work, I start out with good intentions but the end results are not that nice..lol
Posted By: Hemi Allstate
Re: "Custom 33" - 01/31/16 07:12 PM
Really nice work!
The interior looks great.
The colors work well together.
Nice detailing, well thought out.
Well done!
Mark
Posted By: Crizila
Re: "Custom 33" - 02/01/16 07:27 PM
Thanks Mark. Getting the windshield installed today. Finishing up on some little nagging things. Had to change out the rear coil-overs as the originals spring rate was too light. Installing a different front rack to improve bump steer geometry - a modification made by "custom 33" since I bought my car from them 2 years ago. Fab up a license plate holder that will go in to my 1 1/4" trailer receiver - when the trailer is not being used. Etc. Lastly, before I can apply for plates, gotta get the car inspected. Might actually get to drive it in 4-5 months.
Posted By: moparx
Re: "Custom 33" - 02/02/16 01:19 PM
what rate coils did you end up with ?
Posted By: Crizila
Re: "Custom 33" - 02/02/16 04:22 PM
Originally Posted By moparx
what rate coils did you end up with ?
Posted By: CrAzYMoPaRGuY
Re: "Custom 33" - 02/03/16 12:26 AM
Beautiful. Nice job, so impressive!
Posted By: Crizila
Re: "Custom 33" - 03/21/16 04:16 PM
Well, I finally got it on the road. Still some tweeking to do here and there, but I didn't create any disaster areas with this build.
Posted By: Crizila
Re: "Custom 33" - 03/21/16 04:18 PM
A few more
Posted By: moparx
Re: "Custom 33" - 03/22/16 02:14 PM
excellent ! excellent ! excellent ! i know i asked before, and you told me, but now since it's all done, could you weigh the finished product for me please ? i'm just dying to know since everything is such high quality/heavy duty construction. you will get many smiles per mile i'm sure ! a job very well done !
i know i asked before, and you told me, but now since it's all done, could you weigh the finished product for me please ? i'm just dying to know since everything is such high quality/heavy duty construction. you will get many smiles per mile i'm sure ! a job very well done !
Posted By: MuuMuu101
Re: "Custom 33" - 03/22/16 08:13 PM
Bring it to Spring Fling! Love the color and the look.
Posted By: Crizila
Re: "Custom 33" - 04/14/16 10:06 PM
Originally Posted By moparx
excellent ! excellent ! excellent ! i know i asked before, and you told me, but now since it's all done, could you weigh the finished product for me please ? i'm just dying to know since everything is such high quality/heavy duty construction. you will get many smiles per mile i'm sure ! a job very well done !
i know i asked before, and you told me, but now since it's all done, could you weigh the finished product for me please ? i'm just dying to know since everything is such high quality/heavy duty construction. you will get many smiles per mile i'm sure ! a job very well done !
Posted By: moparx
Re: "Custom 33" - 04/15/16 12:40 PM
thank you sir. hoping to keep my humpback at 2800 or so. it may be doable as it doesn't have 1/4" thick floors and will have no fenders or hood. thanks again for taking the time to "weigh" in.
Posted By: Crizila
Re: "Custom 33" - 07/31/16 05:03 PM
Still pluggin along on my 33. Most of the small nagging fresh build issues have been addressed. Got several questions. 1. Alignment; This car has a typical short arm long arm front suspension with coil overs and rack steering. Rear is a canted 4 link, also with coil overs. At present, running 1/2 degree positive camber, 3 degrees caster, 1/16 toe in. Upon decel at about 65 mph, it will sometimes hunt for a line ( left or right). Also, when turning in to corners at speed, I have to over correct ( wants to go farther in to the turn than my original input ). No sway bars or pan hard bar. No slop anywhere with poly bushing and heim joints on all pivot areas. Nothing is severe, but it aint what I would like. It's been suggested that I add another 3 degrees of caster, which I can do easily. Any other suggestions would be appreciated. Not very familiar with canted 4 link rear suspensions. Is there some side to side movement with them? Do I need to add a pan hard bar? #2. Looking to have a billet aluminum windshield molding made for this car. Presently using "Flex Chromes" bendable chrome molding in this area, but it is slowly starting to pull up on the corners. Any ideas? Thanks for any reply's. John
.jpg "2016-04-16 RCCAC Jakes Corner (20).jpg")
Posted By: Supercuda
Re: "Custom 33" - 07/31/16 05:37 PM
I already made my comments on the suspension design early in the build.
I got pooh pooh'd.
Some potential help sorting it out.
http://www.racingonthecheap.com/recommended-reading/carroll-smiths-handling-guide/
I got pooh pooh'd.
Some potential help sorting it out.
http://www.racingonthecheap.com/recommended-reading/carroll-smiths-handling-guide/
Posted By: Crizila
Re: "Custom 33" - 07/31/16 06:38 PM
Originally Posted By Supercuda
I already made my comments on the suspension design early in the build.
I got pooh pooh'd.
Some potential help sorting it out.
http://www.racingonthecheap.com/recommended-reading/carroll-smiths-handling-guide/
I got pooh pooh'd.
Some potential help sorting it out.
http://www.racingonthecheap.com/recommended-reading/carroll-smiths-handling-guide/
Posted By: Supercuda
Re: "Custom 33" - 07/31/16 06:46 PM
If you cannot find anything with static checks then a couple of cheap "go pro" type cameras strategically mounted could allow you to observe the suspension in action, well record and review in the garage, not live please.
Posted By: Crizila
Re: "Custom 33" - 07/31/16 07:10 PM
Originally Posted By Supercuda
If you cannot find anything with static checks then a couple of cheap "go pro" type cameras strategically mounted could allow you to observe the suspension in action, well record and review in the garage, not live please.
Posted By: moparx
Re: "Custom 33" - 08/01/16 02:23 PM
for alignment specs, why the positive camber ? try 0 to -.5 there, 4 or 5* caster and -1/8 toe in. a panhard bar for the rear wouldn't hurt. when the car darts around, is it on all roads or is it different on roads with crown ? does this get worse at higher speed ? how does it act on moderate braking during corner turn in ?
Posted By: Crizila
Re: "Custom 33" - 08/01/16 06:45 PM
[quote=moparx]for alignment specs, why the positive camber ? try 0 to -.5 there, 4 or 5* caster and -1/8 toe in. a panhard bar for the rear wouldn't hurt. when the car darts around, is it on all roads or is it different on roads with crown ? does this get worse at higher speed ? how does it act on moderate braking during corner turn in ?
[/quote. Positive camber = just how it came out. Wasn't going to screw around for 1/2 degree ( actually closer to 1/3 degree on my magnetic gauge ). Could redo it to 0 or - ? easily enough. Yes, worse at speed. Been testing on one stretch of road. Not sure on crown or ruts? Looks flat at 70 mph. Maybe I will try another stretch of road. The darting thing occurs on decal at speed - no braking. Have to recorrect on initial turn in /braking. Haven't tried messing with brake bias yet, but don't think it is brake related? Front / rear tread width = 60" and 63" respectively. Pretty much in the ball park with other vehicles. Haven't tried driving it yet since I dumped in another 3* of caster ( now @6*). In the process of recovering from some major surgery, so it will be another week or so before my body is creeper tolerable . Then I will do some more road testing - hopefully with a camera.
[/quote. Positive camber = just how it came out. Wasn't going to screw around for 1/2 degree ( actually closer to 1/3 degree on my magnetic gauge ). Could redo it to 0 or - ? easily enough. Yes, worse at speed. Been testing on one stretch of road. Not sure on crown or ruts? Looks flat at 70 mph. Maybe I will try another stretch of road. The darting thing occurs on decal at speed - no braking. Have to recorrect on initial turn in /braking. Haven't tried messing with brake bias yet, but don't think it is brake related? Front / rear tread width = 60" and 63" respectively. Pretty much in the ball park with other vehicles. Haven't tried driving it yet since I dumped in another 3* of caster ( now @6*). In the process of recovering from some major surgery, so it will be another week or so before my body is creeper tolerable . Then I will do some more road testing - hopefully with a camera.
Posted By: Crizila
Re: "Custom 33" - 08/02/16 12:56 AM
Took my trusty toe gauge and fabbed up an extension piece so I could use it for checking WB side to side. Within in 1/16".
Posted By: moparx
Re: "Custom 33" - 08/02/16 02:27 PM
over night i thought of a way to possibly see if a panhard bar, or track locator would help solve your problem. if there is enough unobstructed area around your lower, parallel, 4 link arms, you may be able to fab up a temporary diagonal link such as used on a ladder bar setup. it would attach to the drivers side at the front and the passenger side rear mount. [or the opposite if need be] the bar would be 1" or so in diameter with rod ends at each end. the brackets made from 1 1/2" or so 1/4 wall tube pieces with the appropriate spacers required for the ends used. as i used 5/8" heims, i used 1 1/2x3x1/4 wall tube for the brackets. or, you could just buy a diagonal link kit from [?] to save time provided you can find one that will work with the length you need between your lower brackets. pop in a couple of longer lower bolts and see if that does anything. if the symptoms improve or are eliminated, leave it installed or then fab the appropriate brackets needed for a panhard bar. just something to think about. it may work, may not. it could be something else altogether. wheelbase is well within workable tolerance in my opinion.
Posted By: Crizila
Re: "Custom 33" - 08/03/16 12:50 AM
Originally Posted By moparx
over night i thought of a way to possibly see if a panhard bar, or track locator would help solve your problem. if there is enough unobstructed area around your lower, parallel, 4 link arms, you may be able to fab up a temporary diagonal link such as used on a ladder bar setup. it would attach to the drivers side at the front and the passenger side rear mount. [or the opposite if need be] the bar would be 1" or so in diameter with rod ends at each end. the brackets made from 1 1/2" or so 1/4 wall tube pieces with the appropriate spacers required for the ends used. as i used 5/8" heims, i used 1 1/2x3x1/4 wall tube for the brackets. or, you could just buy a diagonal link kit from [?] to save time provided you can find one that will work with the length you need between your lower brackets. pop in a couple of longer lower bolts and see if that does anything. if the symptoms improve or are eliminated, leave it installed or then fab the appropriate brackets needed for a panhard bar. just something to think about. it may work, may not. it could be something else altogether. wheelbase is well within workable tolerance in my opinion.
Posted By: Crizila
Re: "Custom 33" - 08/04/16 07:21 PM
Here are some pics of the front suspension ( Pinto spindles) - namely the lower control angles and the tie rod angles. All ( both sides) are a 6 degrees. Spacers are 3" in length. Speedway sells a 2" spacer to correct bump steer with Pinto spindles, but the 3" I have appear to be on the $.
Posted By: 67R/T4speeder
Re: "Custom 33" - 08/04/16 08:31 PM
That is a beautiful car
BRAVO!!!
BRAVO!!!
Posted By: Crizila
Re: "Custom 33" - 08/04/16 11:56 PM
Originally Posted By 67R/T4speeder
That is a beautiful car
BRAVO!!!
BRAVO!!!
Posted By: poorboy
Re: "Custom 33" - 08/05/16 02:57 AM
I'm wondering if your seeing results of the rear end doing some steering. !st, you have an issue when decel at 65 with it hunting for a line. Then you have to correct in mid turn because your getting more turning input then your giving the car. Both would indicate the rear end causing your unwanted destabilization.
Have you tried bumping it into neutral when you decel to see if the condition still exists? If the rear is experiencing a change in toe as it travels through the suspension travel, you could get both experiences you have. Maybe your bump steer is coming from the rear canted 4 link. Wouldn't take much of a bind or side movement to cause an uneasy feeling for the driver. A minor wheelbase change as the rear suspension articulates could cause your issues as well. Gene
Have you tried bumping it into neutral when you decel to see if the condition still exists? If the rear is experiencing a change in toe as it travels through the suspension travel, you could get both experiences you have. Maybe your bump steer is coming from the rear canted 4 link. Wouldn't take much of a bind or side movement to cause an uneasy feeling for the driver. A minor wheelbase change as the rear suspension articulates could cause your issues as well. Gene
Posted By: Crizila
Re: "Custom 33" - 08/05/16 04:48 AM
Originally Posted By poorboy
I'm wondering if your seeing results of the rear end doing some steering. !st, you have an issue when decel at 65 with it hunting for a line. Then you have to correct in mid turn because your getting more turning input then your giving the car. Both would indicate the rear end causing your unwanted destabilization.
Have you tried bumping it into neutral when you decel to see if the condition still exists? If the rear is experiencing a change in toe as it travels through the suspension travel, you could get both experiences you have. Maybe your bump steer is coming from the rear canted 4 link. Wouldn't take much of a bind or side movement to cause an uneasy feeling for the driver. A minor wheelbase change as the rear suspension articulates could cause your issues as well. Gene
Have you tried bumping it into neutral when you decel to see if the condition still exists? If the rear is experiencing a change in toe as it travels through the suspension travel, you could get both experiences you have. Maybe your bump steer is coming from the rear canted 4 link. Wouldn't take much of a bind or side movement to cause an uneasy feeling for the driver. A minor wheelbase change as the rear suspension articulates could cause your issues as well. Gene
Posted By: Crizila
Re: "Custom 33" - 08/08/16 02:08 AM
Well, went for a road test today with front end changes previously mentioned. No change. Went to the rear suspension. Found the lower link bolts where they attach the front of the lower link arms to the frame rails were way loose. Guess I forgot to tighten them upon initial assembly of the 4 link system ( had it all apart for frame powder coating ). The bushings were still good, so I tightened everything up and took it for another road test. Problem solved!! No more hunting / wandering. Ran it up to 80 and steady as a rock! Please don't tell anybody. 
Posted By: poorboy
Re: "Custom 33" - 08/08/16 04:36 AM
Your secrete is safe with us. I'm glad you have the problem fixed.
The first car I built from scratch I forgot to tighten the axle to leaf spring bolts. It only takes a couple of seconds of distraction to forget something. We have all done it, those not willing to admit it are being less then honest. Gene
The first car I built from scratch I forgot to tighten the axle to leaf spring bolts. It only takes a couple of seconds of distraction to forget something. We have all done it, those not willing to admit it are being less then honest. Gene
Posted By: moparx
Re: "Custom 33" - 08/08/16 01:39 PM
your secret is safe with me......... after you PAY dearly ! 
glad it was something super easy to fix after examination. i'm a big fan of the NSRA safety 23 inspection. a second [or third] pair of eyes comes in very handy at catching things a guy doesn't see after looking at everything for a continuous amount of time. a very good friend of mine and i exchange eyeballs constantly in order to catch each other at things we may have missed. now, for the record, are you using nylock nuts or the "deformed" lock nuts for the suspension components ? the reason i ask, is i have found the nylock nuts for some reason, seem to need constant attention to catch when they loosen up. i have seen those come to with in a couple of threads from falling off many times, where as the "deformed" type [i call those "mash nuts, but that is not the correct name, and i can never remember what it is] seem to stay tight untill they need removed. if a cotter key/castle nut can't be used for what ever reason on suspension parts, i use the "deformed" type of lock nut. just my preference. hope you don't run into any more "new car blues". you certainly did your homework well on that one !
glad it was something super easy to fix after examination. i'm a big fan of the NSRA safety 23 inspection. a second [or third] pair of eyes comes in very handy at catching things a guy doesn't see after looking at everything for a continuous amount of time. a very good friend of mine and i exchange eyeballs constantly in order to catch each other at things we may have missed. now, for the record, are you using nylock nuts or the "deformed" lock nuts for the suspension components ? the reason i ask, is i have found the nylock nuts for some reason, seem to need constant attention to catch when they loosen up. i have seen those come to with in a couple of threads from falling off many times, where as the "deformed" type [i call those "mash nuts, but that is not the correct name, and i can never remember what it is] seem to stay tight untill they need removed. if a cotter key/castle nut can't be used for what ever reason on suspension parts, i use the "deformed" type of lock nut. just my preference. hope you don't run into any more "new car blues". you certainly did your homework well on that one !
Posted By: Crizila
Re: "Custom 33" - 08/08/16 04:30 PM
Originally Posted By moparx
your secret is safe with me......... after you PAY dearly ! glad it was something super easy to fix after examination. i'm a big fan of the NSRA safety 23 inspection. a second [or third] pair of eyes comes in very handy at catching things a guy doesn't see after looking at everything for a continuous amount of time. a very good friend of mine and i exchange eyeballs constantly in order to catch each other at things we may have missed. now, for the record, are you using nylock nuts or the "deformed" lock nuts for the suspension components ? the reason i ask, is i have found the nylock nuts for some reason, seem to need constant attention to catch when they loosen up. i have seen those come to with in a couple of threads from falling off many times, where as the "deformed" type [i call those "mash nuts, but that is not the correct name, and i can never remember what it is] seem to stay tight untill they need removed. if a cotter key/castle nut can't be used for what ever reason on suspension parts, i use the "deformed" type of lock nut. just my preference. hope you don't run into any more "new car blues". you certainly did your homework well on that one !
glad it was something super easy to fix after examination. i'm a big fan of the NSRA safety 23 inspection. a second [or third] pair of eyes comes in very handy at catching things a guy doesn't see after looking at everything for a continuous amount of time. a very good friend of mine and i exchange eyeballs constantly in order to catch each other at things we may have missed. now, for the record, are you using nylock nuts or the "deformed" lock nuts for the suspension components ? the reason i ask, is i have found the nylock nuts for some reason, seem to need constant attention to catch when they loosen up. i have seen those come to with in a couple of threads from falling off many times, where as the "deformed" type [i call those "mash nuts, but that is not the correct name, and i can never remember what it is] seem to stay tight untill they need removed. if a cotter key/castle nut can't be used for what ever reason on suspension parts, i use the "deformed" type of lock nut. just my preference. hope you don't run into any more "new car blues". you certainly did your homework well on that one ! 
Lots of my Nylon lock nuts have already been on and off multiple times. Probably should change them out. Not a fan of deformed lock nuts on my application as they do lots of thread damage to stuff that could be apart and together multiple times such as caster, camber, toe, pinion angle. A second set of eyes / brains is always a good thing.
Posted By: Matt Erich
Re: "Custom 33" - 08/10/16 05:38 AM
Its always nice when the car handles like the computer simulation says it will. We spent countless hours mapping the front and rear suspension to make sure it was road worthy. One of the nicest Custom33 Builds to date for sure John!!!!