Stopping at the end of the track....

i have manual disc on my 76 duster from the factory. i had to push in a panic when a car spun out in front of me but i flatspotted all for wheels. normal stops at the end is just fine with out the feeling i need more brake power. maybe island dragway would be a better test LOL

I have 74 dart disc set up with drum rear, no problem stopping at 130 mph +. I believe I used a 1978 dodge pick up master cylinder non power disc/drum.

Is it a track only car?Maybe you glazed the pads from the start and they did not break in properly

we have a short end of track.....

Had 10" drums on the front of my A body w/440,B-body 10" drums in the rear.Car would stop "OK" but I switched to Wilwood HD brakes on the front along with the Mopar M/Cyl that Rick Ehrenberg sells and I stop MUCH better.

Chris,
do you have a part number of the Wilwood stuff ?

How can I reach Rick ?

Dan

140-2723 is the Wilwood kit I used. I got it from Hot Rods USA.

Rick is a member here,just go to "user list" right below the advertisment bar above this page and you can e-mail or PM him.

I did not use a aftermarket adjustable prop valve,just bolted the brakes and the M/Cyl up and it worked great.The rest of the OEM Mopar stuff is still on the car,along with a line lock.

I switched over from 11" rear drums and 10" front drums to Strange 4 piston calipers on all four corners in 2008. Some of the best money I have EVER spent on my race car. If I remember correctly, it cost about $1000-$1100 for the front and rear kits and another $200-$300 for M/C and fittings and braided SS lines, but I've not had one minute of problems since, and the car stops easily. At Clay City, Ky I ran the 1/4 mile and still was able to turn off at the 1st turn off, after running 127 mph.

Brian Dunnigan

Cool !!

1100 $ for the four corners is a good deal to me ! Same company as strange axles ?

Do you have part numbers of the stuff you have ?

Dan

The way I understand,it adds up to $23 to $2400

687$ front + 582 $ for the rear

a total of 1169$ total....pretty cool !

Ny special Master cyl ?

That sounds too inexpensive to be strange Great deal!

Wedgeman is correct on the price. I got mine in may 2008, so its a little higher now. The fronts come with an alum hub, bearings, seals, calipers, pads, brackets, bolts, shims, long studs, everything is included except the fluid.
The rears are the same except no hubs or bearings. Just be aware that you must use non- adjustable wheel bearing and my stock Dana axles would have needed the center pilot turned down to fit, but I put in strange axles and 5/8" studs at the same time.
I felt like it was a lot of bang for my buck, saved approx 50 lbs of weight and ended my brake troubles.
The part numbers I used were B1704WC rear and B4158WC front.
The biggest feature I liked over Wilwoods is Strange's hat and rotor is 1 piece steel, whereas Wilwoods had a alum hat and a bolt on steel rotor. the strange hat is about 1/4 the thickness of Wilwoods.
Also, I bought mine directly from Strange and they shipped them that day.

Hope this helps,

Brian Dunnigan

Not sure how fast you're going but I'm running late model A-body front disc (manual). I have the big Master w/ the much larger reservoir. I'm also using the Wilwood style adjustable PV. Seems to work fine at 119 or so.

Well my progression was from stock drum brakes to factory front disc brakes. WOW! The factory disc stuff is HEAVY. I still remember grabbing the parts off the edge of the tailgate of the guy I bought the brakes from, and about ripped my arms off from the weight.

After 1 season of that, I also bought the Strange front disc brakes. Really nice, and I think I save at least 50 lbs from the stock disc brake stuff.

With what you pay for used factory disc parts and the time and effort to get them set up, you are far better off just getting the Strange brakes.

My 65 and all the conversionsI do I use a 69- 70 C body disc/drum master.Power or manual thats all I use.I have 11 inch drums rear and it stops no problem at 120 at the back end.My sons 62 300 has the same master and it also stops great street or strip.I have manual he has power.Ive done quite a few and never had a problem.Rocky

sorry, I didn't read all the posts...but why not add power brakes...if 15 or so lbs isn't a problem you can add a small power booster and an electric vacuum pump..I use this system in my Camaro where I dont have vacuum..

this is only if you have adequate brakes to begin with...save on those sore muscles...

They are heavy in deed !!!
and the Strange stuff is very nice for the price
and peace of mind......all make good sense to me !!

Thanks for all the infos

Dan

72Cudaracer......

Are the thin discs good for street use without warping ? how do they react ender heat ?

Dan

That might be the difference between light race stuff and heavey car street stuff The thinner rotors would get very hot in "HOT" sreet usage causing brake fade or pad glazing