Pushrods?

What causes them to smoke the ends around the cup area. I know that a lack of oil will but give me some more reason why this happens.Could to tight of a valve adjustment be the problem?Lets hear what u have lean..........Thax.

No to lash adjustment , in my opinion. Just total lack of oil !

I'm was running a set of the Indy rocker arms,Made the switch to a set of the Harland sharps and looking at the feed holes on the Harland and the indie look to be the same,but i notice that the shaft on the Harland's have feed holes on the top/bottom of there shafts,I'm in need of a new set of push rods and trying to prevent this problem from reoccurring...Thax 4 the response

The do pushrod oiling, no more problems. That is what I am doing on my hemi. I will have plenty of oil in the top end for lubrication now. Tim

Best thing to do is to use the correct lube when you put them together the first time. That gets them off to a good start. Then make sure that they get plenty of lube when running and you should be good to go.

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The do pushrod oiling, no more problems.


Explain please?

Thank you

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The do pushrod oiling, no more problems. That is what I am doing on my hemi. I will have plenty of oil in the top end for lubrication now. Tim

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Please explain What did u do to increase the flow of oil?...

waiting

No one asked, so I will...
What is your current setup? What heads, rockers, push rods, adjusters are utilized in this setup?
What type of driving? is this a race only setup? Does it spend any time at a idle when hot, like red light traffic? I have seen race cars do fine at the track, but the exact same setup on the street burns and smokes push rods. Lots and lots of factors can cause this. Lets say you have top notch stuff that is supplying plenty of oil up to the rocker gear. But the push-rods are about .100 too short. You have way to much adjuster hangout from the rocker arm. This can and will cause this.
A bad batch of adjusters can cause this, I recall one of the rocker companies, missing the heat treat on some of the parts causing adjusters to eat each other away.
With a stock setup, heads and lets say Iron Isky/Crane Ductile rockers, everything has to be in the ball park to work.. I have seen those rocker arms, not be drilled, or the oil hole be drilled in the wrong spot.
If your serious you can fix this on the cheap with a little sweat and a few skinned up knuckles. Run down or dig out a old stock set of valve covers. Cut the very top part, making a window so you can see whats going on. See where the oil is squirting etc. You could increase the size of this hole, banana groove the rockers for increased oiling..... Pull the cam and groove the 4th cam journal all the way around with a small .050 x .050 groove. This was always a trick the Hemi guys would do to oil the complicated valve gear on those. You could build a cheap spray bar oiling system (I did) out of 3/16 brake line feeding all the time straight from one of the oil galley plugs in the back of the block. Worked for my Jesel rocker arms, and 440-1 Indy heads. I was running 850 LBS open pressure turning 8Kand never once had a oiling issue to the valve train. And it was like $25 for the parts, of coarse most just buy the setup from Indy, which is in the $500 range last I checked. Think they wanted $350 to convert your supplied old covers to spray bar system.
Anyways, just some idea's to chew on. You really need to see whats going on, to find the problem and correct it. If you can get the system to oil good at idle with the engine/oil hot.. You wont need to worry again.

I have smoke the ends of some high dollar($23.00 each )pushrods because the pushrods where rubbing on the block preventing oil from getting between the rocker adjuster end and the pushrod cup It sounds like you have s set of Indy cylinder heads, what version and what ratio where the old rockers and what ratio are the new Harland Sharps? How many threads on the adjsusters are showing under the rocker arms? Make sure the pushrods are moving easily with the motor warmed with both valves closed, if this is a solid roller or solid flat lifter camshaft If hydraulic make sure they will move(spin) easily at zero lash I have one motor with Indy SR heads that uses T&D single shaft rockers and another motor with Indy 440-1 heads with single shaft Harland Sharp rockers, I had to grind on both heads to get pushrod clearances set up so they would live The quality of the pushrods makes a difference also, Manton Stage 3 and 5 are the best ones out there for high performance use I sell both Smith Bros and Mantons, I use Mantons in my motors

Here is an example of myself burning a pushrod recently with the car IDLING in my driveway LOL, putting on a different carburetor ,didnt set the idle at 1200+, car run for about 10 minutes trying to make adjustments , idle was in the neighborhood of 600-800 rpms( lower oil pressure and volume) smoked cylinder #2exhaust and broke cylinder#2 intake cup 440 roller cam harland sharp rocker springs 550lbs open lesson learned

If you have a choice, which is the best way to go? Ball/ball or ball/cup?

Bob:it's te 440-1's
indy dove tail rockers
race only

Cab:1.5 indys ( Make sure the pushrods are moving easily with the motor warmed with both valves closed, if this is a solid roller or solid flat lifter camshaft )
when u say move freely y u meaning that the pushrod should spin freely

Thax....

I might be wrong, but he's probably talking about side clearance. Yes there should be some side clearance... maybe .010 or so.
This setup uses the Oiling line kit from Indy them? Have they been restricted already?

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I might be wrong, but he's probably talking about side clearance. Yes there should be some side clearance... maybe .010 or so.
This setup uses the Oiling line kit from Indy them? Have they been restricted already?

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No....