New Best in the 10's and 4-Link Q's.....

Well it alive and back in action. For any that know what happened to the car last week, the trans exploded in spectacular fashion and Paul got hurt and ended up in the ER with 2 breaks in his foot and probably needs surgey, but should be ok. I was supposed to be driving, but glad I wasn't.

It now has a sheild on it, and a new trans, new floor, lots of new stuff and the steering column was moved to be above the knee bar..

First, I will say this, I have never, until today, run 10's....I made three runs in the car today, the first one was a feeler to get an idea, and the next two I stepped on it. I ran a 10.76, a 10.56 and a 10.56 at 127.98. Here is the kicker, the 60ft is only 1.54 and the car is unloading and pulling to the right off the launch. Its a four link, and I am thinking based on what the chassis guy said of lengthing the upper left bar, does this sound right, nevr had a 4-link before?

Also, what tire pressure in a 17x33 slick in a door car?

Nice car, you did alot of work to it in a week......sorry cant answer your 4 link question..

This is how I set my car up initially. I adjusted all the bars so they were the same length. The bottom bars pretty much just set the wheelbase. I then adjust the top bars evenly to get about 1 degree of pinion angle (I like to have some angle just to work the joint). Then I jack the rear up on the driveshaft hoop and set the front end height so it sits level. Then I let the rear down and jack the front end up on a piece of tubing so it can lean either way until the front tires just barely touch. Then shorten the top right bar until I get the right front tire 1.5 inches off the ground when the left front is just touching. Recenter the rear end if you're using a track locator bar. Depending on how much power you're making you may need to add more preload or take some out. I also found it's important to recenter the rear when using a track locator bar after each adjustment.

This should get you in the ball park.

As for tire pressure you'll have to experiment. I started with 9 pounds in mine and then changed it in .5 pound increments to get my best 60' time.

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Well it alive and back in action. For any that know what happened to the car last week, the trans exploded in spectacular fashion and Paul got hurt and ended up in the ER with 2 breaks in his foot and probably needs surgey, but should be ok. I was supposed to be driving, but glad I wasn't.

It now has a sheild on it, and a new trans, new floor, lots of new stuff and the steering column was moved to be above the knee bar..

First, I will say this, I have never, until today, run 10's....I made three runs in the car today, the first one was a feeler to get an idea, and the next two I stepped on it. I ran a 10.76, a 10.56 and a 10.56 at 127.98. Here is the kicker, the 60ft is only 1.54 and the car is unloading and pulling to the right off the launch. Its a four link, and I am thinking based on what the chassis guy said of lengthing the upper left bar, does this sound right, nevr had a 4-link before?

Also, what tire pressure in a 17x33 slick in a door car?

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When you SHORTEN the upper right bar it pushes down
harder on the right rear tire... thats how we adjust
more pre-load into it... pre-load is added to correct
a launch issue(pulling to the right)... I would say
you need a anti roll bar if its not pulling to the
right on the launch.... but from the sounds of it...
it should be pulling hard right and adding pre-load
should/would correct it... myself I'm a FIRM
believer in the anti-roll bar on a 4-link