SS Spring to ladder bars

Cab...Ya hit the nail on the head! Can't wait to try mine with the ladder bars!!

Raff...What does your car weigh??

Holy carp!! That thing is light!!

I agree the launch was much more violent with ss springs vs. ladder bar coil overs

I currently run calvert 90/10 on the front and have found them to be very good for the money. My car weights 2900 without me and my weight depends on the amount of beer i drank the previous week. Any way I am hoping for a more consistant launch. The SS springs on the car are old and the tbrake has made it worse. The car started to go to the right late last year and its time for a upgrade.

I will only say it once....

If I was going to go through the work of what you are considering. There is no way in HELL I would put a ladder bar in anything these days. Ancient technology, with only 3 real IC's to work with. If you get it right and set up for you combo there is no reason it wont work, but its possible none of the 3 ICs will be correct and then you are constantly working on band aids for the situation.

4 link will cover infinitly more situations, and can change with what ever set up you ever put into the car. Will have alot more resale value as well (if you ever are thinking of selling)

since someone brought this up. I am trying to decide whether to change mine to ladders bars or SS springs on my 74 cuda. Street car with a 1.50 60 ft now. Dont know if its worth the hassle wit the power i got now to go with ladders. Either way i got to change to something. My stock springs are bent. I just didnt want the rear or the car up in the air. I would like it level.

I run ladder bars. Absolutely nothing wrong with them for most setups down into the nines. At about low nines I needed more control over the instant center, and when I went to the 8.80 motor It got worse. Would I use them again? You bet, as long as I was not shooting for anything faster than about 10.00 to 9.50 using a brake.
Any suspension needs a "band aid". Good shock absorbers. A good set of double adjustable shocks to control rate of rear separation, and the car won't give a darn whether its a ladder bar or four link up to a point. To me that is like I said before, about 10.00 for most setups. Then the fourlink advantage is slight, but grows as the car gets faster.
My last three passes were pretty close, especially after moving a ton of weight forward. first pass, 1.263. Tightened the rear shocks a click, as the video showed a bit of axle rebound. Next pass, 1.260, axle settled down. Tried more shock, one click. Last pass, 1.259. Not bad for an 8.90 3000 lb ladder bar car. Here's the kicker. I run a torqueflite and leave off a brake at 5000 rpm. Both a torqueflite and ladder bars are supposed to be too violent for what I have, but some how it works anyway.
Getting to your original question, the car should leave less violently, needing less rear shock. You should be able to control roll rotation with a touch of pre load in the right rear, and if you need more help there try moving the bars up in front. But one thing I strongly suggest, good, double adjustable shocks. You have to be able to properly control that axle. Last comment, box the brackets on the axle. They won't be able to collapse if you get the car sideways.