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Bring it by the shop and we will help pinpoint the problem.
thats the answer right there
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If it has oil pressure I don't think it has any oil plugs loose.
P.S. It has good oil pressure also? thanks Nick
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If it has oil pressure I don't think it has any oil plugs loose.
you might be suprised at how much of a leak you can have and still have fair psi.
I've had the same thing on motors I did in the past 
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This sounds veery similar to an oil leak Scott and I fought with earlier this winter. We tried 4 difernt seals (different brands) and 3 different retainers (one being billet) and all leaked like what you are descirbing.
Our last hope before tearing it out and going through it was a rope seal. Thankfully that fixed it.
Good luck.
On your motor? A rope seal?
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I m telling you i think you are on to somthing ..befor i stroked it it didnt leak a drop!! thanks Nick
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I m telling you i think you are on to somthing ..befor i stroked it it didnt leak a drop!! thanks Nick
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Bring it by the shop and we will help pinpoint the problem.
I changed a main seal four times, had to put shim stock(30 thousands)then the main seal.
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Just a thought, you running main studs
Also some billet retainers collect oil and do not drain back to the pan. This will overload the seals capabilities.
NICK
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The problem is not the people installing the seal! Its somthing else. the motor did not leak in 440 form it started after the stroker was installed and it had a rubber seal in it befor. the crank is a mopar crank . I have not tried a rope seal yet,that is on the list . The way it leaks i find it hard to belive its the cam plug but hey at this point Ill belive any thing. THANKS.
This is the kind of stuff that happens to me , I once had a tranny built and it would not work properly found out it was a 727 built for a european car?
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Just a thought, you running main studs
Also some billet retainers collect oil and do not drain back to the pan. This will overload the seals capabilities.
Quote:so what is it that you modified, any picts?Quote:
Just a thought, you running main studs
Also some billet retainers collect oil and do not drain back to the pan. This will overload the seals capabilities.
I had this problem with main studs too, both stock and billet retainers. I used a dremel and a sanding drum until I had clearance.
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In my humble opinion...if you have a knurl...you need to run a rope seal. I've never had a problem with a rope seal on a knurled surface.
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Just a thought, you running main studs
Also some billet retainers collect oil and do not drain back to the pan. This will overload the seals capabilities.
I had this problem with main studs too, both stock and billet retainers. I used a dremel and a sanding drum until I had clearance.
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I simply mill clearance on the seal retainer to clear the studs/nuts. Same idea, to avoid the retainer hanging up on the studs/nuts.
You don't have to mill all the way to 0.19", but this one allows the socket in there.
that is what i did but with a die grinder. 
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I simply mill clearance on the seal retainer to clear the studs/nuts. Same idea, to avoid the retainer hanging up on the studs/nuts.
You don't have to mill all the way to 0.19", but this one allows the socket in there.
ps:i was thinking of a plug for the seal retainer bolt holes to help support the pan gasket.i filled it with silicone i think.
video to help me get thru the winter.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=deuuTcazgrU
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I simply mill clearance on the seal retainer to clear the studs/nuts. Same idea, to avoid the retainer hanging up on the studs/nuts.
You don't have to mill all the way to 0.19", but this one allows the socket in there.
ps:i was thinking of a plug for the seal retainer bolt holes to help support the pan gasket.i filled it with silicone i think.
video to help me get thru the winter.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=deuuTcazgrU
Hey those look like 440source billet main caps.
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I simply mill clearance on the seal retainer to clear the studs/nuts. Same idea, to avoid the retainer hanging up on the studs/nuts.
You don't have to mill all the way to 0.19", but this one allows the socket in there.
ps:i was thinking of a plug for the seal retainer bolt holes to help support the pan gasket.i filled it with silicone i think.
video to help me get thru the winter.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=deuuTcazgrU
Hey those look like 440source billet main caps.
no sir!those are Koleno Performance caps,all 5 crossbolt in a koleno block.
)
THAT IS WHAT MAKES THIS COUNTRY GREAT PEOPLE HELPING PEOPLE THAT THEY NEVER MET ...THANKS NICK
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I simply mill clearance on the seal retainer to clear the studs/nuts. Same idea, to avoid the retainer hanging up on the studs/nuts.
You don't have to mill all the way to 0.19", but this one allows the socket in there.
ps:i was thinking of a plug for the seal retainer bolt holes to help support the pan gasket.i filled it with silicone i think.
video to help me get thru the winter.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=deuuTcazgrU
Hey those look like 440source billet main caps.
no sir!those are Koleno Performance caps,all 5 crossbolt in a koleno block.
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UPDATE ON THE LEAK...It is up on the rack tranny ,converter ,flexplate out. Where the pilot bushing was drilled was dry the rest has to be cleaned ,then we are going to prime the pump and slowly turn the crank and see if we get anything..
I hope you find it, the cam plugs I had troubles with did not leak on the engine stand, even when priming and rotating it over several revolutions BTW, if you have not clean the front of the flexplate yet look at it real careful, if the main seal is leakning it has to come out on the flexplate and be slung out from there If the front of the flex plate is dry it is not the main seal, it is something else Good luck, I really hope you find it soon and that it is a easy fix
The suspense is just killing me so give us an update when you can.
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MOOR MONEY 
He blamed it on everything else but the crank .
I need a deal on a 4.15 stroke crank for a440 6 bolt flange Thanks moparts . sorry 
Quote:Call John at Hawk racing, 951-369-0200 and ask them about current prices, if in stock or not and shipping costs on one to you
UPDATE!!! crank is cracked in several places ..called the guy who built the engin ..your converter must be hitting the crank and cracked it!!! [Edited by Moparts - Family Friendly Site - Keep it clean]!! is that?
I have used several of there Chinese imports in motor, no problems so far, including beating the snot out of the motors 
Like all things, have it check by someone you trust as soon as you get it to make sure it is useable
the good thing is you still have the rest of the engine.
Yes, I still have the rest of the engin but a look at the pistons and it looks as if the rings were not properly spaced ... so what else is wrong???
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UPDATE!!! crank is cracked in several places ..called the guy who built the engin ..your converter must be hitting the crank and cracked it!!! [Edited by Moparts - Family Friendly Site - Keep it clean]!! is that?
With magnafluxing , from what I understand there is liquid and powder mine was liquid and checked with a black light . The guy called and said it hadseveral cracks so I will take his word thats what he does. I just ordered a new crank ,bearings gaskets ect..IM BROKE!! 
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