Help with correct rear Wilwood kit

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I have Wilwoods on the front of my car and MW on the back. After working on the Wilwoods for a few years I've finally gotten them to work, more or less. Just a lot of little problems that, in my opinion, make them less than desirable.

Now that they mostly work, the biggest issue is the pads wear on a taper from top to bottom. That means the pedal starts going away because the pads push the pistons back into the caliper. I've only been getting around 75 - 100 passes before the pads need attention. My Mark Williams pads have around 200 passes now and look almost new. No taper at all.

I'm actually on my second set of Wilwoods because the first set self destructed in about 10 passes. That was back when I was only running about 130.

I ended up needing to change to a different style rotor than the ones they originally recommended. From day 1 I've had to fight to get tham bled.

Just my (and a few of my friends) experience. Lots of other people have been happy with them. They are definately cheaper.

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Fair enough, appreciate the response. Sucks that you had all of those problems. The only thing I remember having a problem with Ww's was they came with "green" pads (IIRC) and on a heavy '70 RR vert we had to go to the "brown" pads to correct a premature pad wear problem. This was years ago, so the colors might not be correct

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I have Wilwoods on the front of my car and MW on the back. After working on the Wilwoods for a few years I've finally gotten them to work, more or less. Just a lot of little problems that, in my opinion, make them less than desirable.

Now that they mostly work, the biggest issue is the pads wear on a taper from top to bottom. That means the pedal starts going away because the pads push the pistons back into the caliper. I've only been getting around 75 - 100 passes before the pads need attention. My Mark Williams pads have around 200 passes now and look almost new. No taper at all.

I'm actually on my second set of Wilwoods because the first set self destructed in about 10 passes. That was back when I was only running about 130.

I ended up needing to change to a different style rotor than the ones they originally recommended. From day 1 I've had to fight to get tham bled.

Just my (and a few of my friends) experience. Lots of other people have been happy with them. They are definately cheaper.

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sounds like you have a problem if they are wearing uneven. I have owned at least 5 different sets of wilwood brakes and never had a seconds problem out of any of them. I hear theae type of problems all the time and for the life of me I don't understand it

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I'm not an authority on all Wilwood Mopar rear brakes, but unless you are running a spool, or a modified differential, the parking brake version requires a 5 hole shim (which is not mentioned in the instructions or even available from Wilwood) between the brake backing plate and housing end. If this shim isn't installed, the wheel bearings will be destroyed by excessive preloading of the alxes on the differential thrust block.

The backing plate also doubles as a wheel bearing retainer. In order to remove the axle, the whole brake kit must also be pulled.

I get blamed all the time for "making axles too long" or "selling defective wheel bearings" because of Wilwood's design problems. Of course, when questioned, Wilwood Tech denies responsibility. Strange and Dutchman also mention the same problems with Wilwood.

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Cass I have never seen any race cars with emegency brake versions but I do live in Florida.

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The OP is asking about Wilwood Mopar kits equipped with emergency brakes.

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oh I see, my fault sorry