Moparts

Should I Make Engine (440)This Winter?

Posted By: tywebb2

Should I Make Engine (440)This Winter? - 11/25/10 01:14 AM

One of the things that has bugged me since I built the current engine in my car is that the piston deck height is bad (.0205" in the hole) and the compression is low for aluminum heads (9.9:1).

Right now I have a 440 bored .030" over with TRW six pak pistons, stock rods, stock forged crank, MP 509 hydraulic cam, and 84cc out of the box Eddy heads.

The limiting factor in doing anything more has been my piston to valve clearance because the valve reliefs in the pistons are for stock size valves. Right now I have .120" clearance on the intake and .174" on the exhaust with a .027" cometic head gasket.

My winter project idea is to pull the engine and then pull the pistons to have the valve reliefs enlarged. Then make sure everything is still balanced. Once that is done I can have the heads milled to get my compression up to around 11:1 which would still be ok on pump premium...right? While the heads are off I would also have a guy I know gasket match them and do a little minor porting.

The question is do you think all of this would be a waste of time or would I see some noticeable gains in ET by bumping up the compression and a little head work?
Posted By: maximum entropy

Re: Should I Make Engine (440)This Winter? - 11/25/10 01:23 AM

are your pistons .0205, or .205 in the hole?
Posted By: tywebb2

Re: Should I Make Engine (440)This Winter? - 11/25/10 01:56 AM

They are .0205" down in the hole.
Posted By: Sport440

Re: Should I Make Engine (440)This Winter? - 11/25/10 02:38 AM

Oh , you will see a improvement allright. What gasket are you using? From your spec of 9.9 comp Im assuming a .040 gasket. mike
Posted By: tywebb2

Re: Should I Make Engine (440)This Winter? - 11/25/10 02:46 AM

I am using a .027" cometic head gasket currently.

How much of a difference do you think I will see?

How high can I go with the compression and still run on pump gas? Maybe switching to domed pistons would be an option?

How much can you safely mill the Eddy heads? By my calculations 74cc heads will get me to 10.84:1 and 72cc will get me to 11.06:1.
Posted By: 602heavy

Re: Should I Make Engine (440)This Winter? - 11/25/10 02:54 AM

As you pointed out , CR wants to be around 10.5;1 & above with alu heads , anything much less will soot & can be a PITA to tune , more power will be had increasing CR from 9.9 to 10.5 than from 10.5 to 11.1 all being relative........cutting the heads .040" should net around 78cc bringing SCR up to around 10.5/1 , piston to valve should be around .080" , may not need to cut those pistons.
Posted By: Sport440

Re: Should I Make Engine (440)This Winter? - 11/25/10 03:34 AM

Quote:

As you pointed out , CR wants to be around 10.5;1 & above with alu heads , anything much less will soot & can be a PITA to tune , more power will be had increasing CR from 9.9 to 10.5 than from 10.5 to 11.1 all being relative........cutting the heads .040" should net around 78cc bringing SCR up to around 10.5/1 , piston to valve should be around .080" , may not need to cut those pistons.




The simplest thing to do would be to shave the heads .040 or so. The cc,s of the head with that shave can end up anywhere between 76 and 78 cc,s That will put you around 10.5+ comp.

With my old 906,s every .040 shave = a solid .2 tenth gain in ET. Did it 3 times

With a .040 shave coming from 9.9 you should see about the same. I had the same 509 cam too.

If I were you I wouldnt go any higher then 11.1 with pump gas. You could though, but you have to be Much more carefull with timing/tune and fuel.

If you do have your pistons flycut a .050 shave with a .030 gasket should net you around 11.1 comp.

There will be No need to rebalance with just fly cutting the pistons. You would probably only be removing about a gram or so, if that, in a favorable direction. mike
Posted By: 602heavy

Re: Should I Make Engine (440)This Winter? - 11/25/10 03:39 AM

Mike , the OP is using an ,027" gasket , those pistons have around 6cc reliefs?
Posted By: WILD BILL

Re: Should I Make Engine (440)This Winter? - 11/25/10 03:41 AM

FWIW, my eddy heads have been cut .100"
Posted By: Sport440

Re: Should I Make Engine (440)This Winter? - 11/25/10 04:02 AM

Quote:

Mike , the OP is using an ,027" gasket , those pistons have around 6cc reliefs?




Adam, thanks , my comp estimates were with 4cc reliefs. My comp numbers are approximate within .1 or so or maybe looser . mike
Posted By: Cab_Burge

Re: Should I Make Engine (440)This Winter? - 11/25/10 04:02 AM

Quote:

They are .0205" down in the hole.


If I was you I would disassemble the short block and have the deck cut .010 to .015, depending on how much piston to cylinder wall clearnances you have now If your running .003 or more piston to wall clearnaces cut the deck .010 and reuse the head gaskets, do the math on that with your current head CC and see what that gets you for a compression ratio, check both KB pistons sight and Wallaces, they do not come up the same using the same specs on both sites If you have less than .003 piston to cylinder wall shoot for .000(zero) down in the hole, BTW, make sure you check every piston in every cylinder for its piston deck hieght, especially if you haven't already stock Mopar forged rods are not that close to each other on the lengths a lot of the time My message is to set the deck hieght of the block based on the highest pistons on each side, not just the (only) one you checked on one side of the block
Posted By: tywebb2

Re: Should I Make Engine (440)This Winter? - 11/25/10 04:04 AM

TRW actually says the reliefs are 7cc.

Hmmmm...I wonder if I could get away with cutting the heads and still have enough clearance. Guess I could always cut them and bolt them up without gasket to see what the p-to-v clearance is and then figure out what to do then.

Would cutting the heads .040 mean my ptv clearances would become .080" intake (.120"-.040") and .134" exhaust (.174"-.040")?
Posted By: tywebb2

Re: Should I Make Engine (440)This Winter? - 11/25/10 04:10 AM

My #1 regret is that I didn't zero deck the block when I did the original build. I was hoping I could avoid tearing it completely apart. If I can mill .040" and not have to worry about fly cutting the pistons....that may be the way to go.
Posted By: Sport440

Re: Should I Make Engine (440)This Winter? - 11/25/10 04:11 AM

Quote:

FWIW, my eddy heads have been cut .100"




Thats illegal, Eddy recommends a Max cut of .060

Your heads are going to break in half the first time down the track.









Mines .080
Posted By: WILD BILL

Re: Should I Make Engine (440)This Winter? - 11/25/10 04:15 AM

Quote:


Your heads are going to break in half the first time down the track.








It wont break till run # 5




BTW..............











Posted By: Cab_Burge

Re: Should I Make Engine (440)This Winter? - 11/25/10 04:15 AM

Quote:

TRW actually says the reliefs are 7cc.

Hmmmm...I wonder if I could get away with cutting the heads and still have enough clearance. Guess I could always cut them and bolt them up without gasket to see what the p-to-v clearance is and then figure out what to do then.

Would cutting the heads .040 mean my ptv clearances would become .080" intake (.120"-.040") and .134" exhaust (.174"-.040")?


It is way better to measure them to make sure, Remember that the valves are on angle in relation to the piston tops so the angle will affect the actual clearnances, that being said I run my piston to valve clearances .060 on the intakes, or less sometimes and .080 on the exhaust on a motor with steel rods and a automatic trans and race converter and good valve springs. I do run a little more clearances(.100 and .120) on a stick shift motor with steel rods, just in case they miss a shift
Posted By: 602heavy

Re: Should I Make Engine (440)This Winter? - 11/25/10 04:18 AM

Quote:



Would cutting the heads .040 mean my ptv clearances would become .080" intake (.120"-.040") and .134" exhaust (.174"-.040")?




Well , i know it's a funny angle but i would say yes. ...........you could always retard that cam a couple degrees & gain .010" , are the piston to valves #s with zero lifter preload?
Posted By: Sport440

Re: Should I Make Engine (440)This Winter? - 11/25/10 04:22 AM

Yes cutting your heads by .040 will reduce the current clearence from .120 to .080 safe enough.

But, there is more then just the Depth to worry about. Theres the Radial diameter clearence to consider too.

I do not know what diameter the 6 pac pistons are cut for, Stock, 2.14 The depth clearence at .080 would be fine IMO

But you also need to check for radial clearence at the edge of the valve. I had that problem on my stock fly cut pistons. I had to reclearence the radial clearence after noticing valve contact kiss marks.

I know these things because I am a Keyboard Racer. As I havent raced at the track in 4 years. mike
Posted By: 602heavy

Re: Should I Make Engine (440)This Winter? - 11/25/10 04:26 AM

Quote:

I know these things because I am a Keyboard Racer. As I havent raced at the track in 4 years. mike




Posted By: tywebb2

Re: Should I Make Engine (440)This Winter? - 11/25/10 04:54 AM

The valve reliefs in the TRW pistons are for stock size valves. With the Eddy valves being larger the reliefs really aren't doing anything and the valves are contacting the flat part of the piston when I am checking clearance. At least that is how I remember it when I checked with clay a few years ago when I put the eddys on.

Would it make sense for me to take a little more off to allow for a standard Felpro head gasket? They are a heck of a lot cheaper than the Cometic MLS and it is only a mild 440 build we are talking about. Actually, I think I have a set of the Felpros left over from a rebuild kit out in the garage so they would cost me $0.00....which would be nice.
Posted By: tywebb2

Re: Should I Make Engine (440)This Winter's Project? - 11/25/10 05:13 AM

Milling the heads .050" to get me to 74cc and then using the standard .039" head gasket would put me at 10.54:1 by my numbers. This would in effect be very close to .040" off the heads with a .027" head gasket...just a lot cheaper....right?
Posted By: Sport440

Re: Should I Make Engine (440)This Winter? - 11/25/10 05:29 AM

Ive never used the cometics, But, from what I know/hear they can be used several times.

As far as fly cutting the pistons, that can be done without taking the pistons out., mike
Posted By: Dodgem

Re: Should I Make Engine (440)This Winter? - 11/25/10 04:12 PM

Milling the heads will definitely help and some porting really helps. The pushrod pinch can be opened up a lot on the intake ports to really help flow!

Clay your valve reliefs and see how close you are to the back side if the fly cuts but most TRW are fine with the 2.14 valve.

According to some most of us should not be offering advice unless we are Pro racers (I'm a hobbiest racer) or engine builders so sorry if i'm out of line. The 509 where it is degreed now will like the added pop even more!
Posted By: deaks

Re: Should I Make Engine (440)This Winter? - 11/25/10 04:52 PM

My old 440 block had trw 6 pack pistons, i ran RPM heads milled to 76cc and copper coated steel shim head gaskets. My cam was R280, 280/280 AT .050, .670/670 lift and that cleared fine.
I used shims to get the comp as high as possible because the cam was too big.
Mick
Posted By: tywebb2

Re: Should I Make Engine (440) This Winter's Project ? - 11/25/10 05:07 PM

I think I am going to definately pull the heads, have them milled, have the guy I know do a little port work on them and then see what happens.

Is it safe to reuse the cometic MLS gaskets? I will probably just mill a little more off the heads and go with the standard .039" Felpros but had to ask.

I am just looking for a couple more tenths to get me into the 11.5's or a little deeper so I can race on an 11.5 index next year. That is my limit because I don't want to cage the car. This sounds like the ticket and budget friendly
Posted By: smokinwoody

Re: Should I Make Engine (440)This Winter? - 11/25/10 05:40 PM

so buy my block advertised on here and problems solved...just build it bigger
Posted By: Sport440

Re: Should I Make Engine (440)This Winter's Project? - 11/25/10 09:31 PM

Quote:

Milling the heads .050" to get me to 74cc and then using the standard .039" head gasket would put me at 10.54:1 by my numbers. This would in effect be very close to .040" off the heads with a .027" head gasket...just a lot cheaper....right?




Yes it would have the same compression but you would be losing a .012 of Quench.

Quench is your friend to help resist detonation when you raise the comp closer to the threshold. Wicth is what your doing.

Id keep the .047 quench , shave the heads .050 and reuse the Cometics. Its been done several times here by members of this board.

Further on quench, its been once tested by a associate of Vizard. On a 350 ,450 hp motor each .010 tighter quench = a 7hp increase. With the Same comp.

Your 440 could see more then 7 HP per .010 or not. So why throw that posibilty away and increase your detonation risks at the same time.

The www.kb-silvolite.com , calc that I like to use over the Wallace calc gives 11.07 comp with 74cc .03 gasket and 4cc reliefs.

I know, I know, they are 7cc and your cometic is .027 thick. The above will need recalculated, but its ball park.

If you click on the above link, look for Calculaters. mike
Posted By: tywebb2

Re: Should I Make Engine (440)This Winter's Project? - 11/25/10 09:40 PM

Wouldn't the quench effect be virtually the same either way? The piston is still down in the hole .0205". The only difference is you are taking more off of the head which is made up by the thicker head gasket. So the combustion chamber of the head would still be the same distance away from the piston. Am I missing something here?

What is the ideal quench height? I am curious how far off I would be at .047"?

Can anyone confirm that they have reused Cometic MLS head gaskets without any problems? I am a little scared to do that.
Posted By: Sport440

Re: Should I Make Engine (440)This Winter's Project? - 11/25/10 09:59 PM

No with a .020 deck + .027 is .047 quench,

.020 deck + .039 is .059 quench.

These arent my rules but KB,s After .060 quench, the benifits drop off fast. KB uses the word forfeited after .060

So .060 would be the max .050 would be better and .040 better yet. After that things get way to close for the average home builder. Every piston deck height to head clearence should be checked.

Like Cab eluded to earlier, stock deck heights are not consistant from front to back and side to side. Im sure yours arent either, so that .020 deck may be .027 in some cyl,s. Because of that some builders would suggest you go no tighter then .045 to .050. I havent heard of any 440 block going tighter then .033 without contact Aluminum rods need greater clearences. mike
Posted By: deaks

Re: Should I Make Engine (440)This Winter's Project? - 11/25/10 10:23 PM

I measured my pistons at .018 down, that's why i used shims to get a good quench.
Posted By: 602heavy

Re: Should I Make Engine (440)This Winter's Project? - 11/25/10 10:44 PM

74cc chambers along with a .027" head gasket will net a comp ratio of 10.8 , sounds pretty good.

Some will use those cometics a number of times with no issues , can be a pain seperating the layers , cleaning & resealing , i would just go with a new set , the only gaskets i ever reused were the titan copper gaskets.

Posted By: AAR-B4

Re: Should I Make Engine (440)This Winter's Project? - 11/26/10 12:24 AM

Your post says you want to cut some ET.
I think if you swap the .509 for a .557 solid you'll be happy (if you are running an auto trans). My
Posted By: tywebb2

Re: Should I Make Engine (440)This Winter's Project? - 11/26/10 03:27 AM

Thanks for the recommendation but I am determined to get my car to an 11.5 or better with the MP 509 cam.


I am wondering....how much do you think I can gain by just having the heads milled vs. milling the heads and some light port work? The guy I know said he would just do a gasket match and clean up the bowls under the intake valves. He has a flow bench and said he would give me numbers before and after the work. I remember reading a long time ago that these heads are very good out of the box. I am just wondering if the porting would be a waste of time and to just worry about bumping up the compression?
Posted By: Sport440

Re: Should I Make Engine (440)This Winter's Project? - 11/26/10 04:57 AM

With your combo, the port match and bowl cleanup work of the Eddy head wont gain you anything worth your while,IMO. The milling alone, by far will be the best Bang for the buc. mike
Posted By: tywebb2

Re: Should I Make Engine (440)This Winter's Project? - 11/27/10 12:50 AM

What is the tightest p-to-v clearance I can get away with on the intake valve and still be safe?
Posted By: 70blackfish

Re: Should I Make Engine (440)This Winter? - 11/27/10 04:31 PM

Quote:

Quote:

They are .0205" down in the hole.


If I was you I would disassemble the short block and have the deck cut .010 to .015, depending on how much piston to cylinder wall clearnances you have now If your running .003 or more piston to wall clearnaces cut the deck .010 and reuse the head gaskets, do the math on that with your current head CC and see what that gets you for a compression ratio, check both KB pistons sight and Wallaces, they do not come up the same using the same specs on both sites If you have less than .003 piston to cylinder wall shoot for .000(zero) down in the hole, BTW, make sure you check every piston in every cylinder for its piston deck hieght, especially if you haven't already stock Mopar forged rods are not that close to each other on the lengths a lot of the time My message is to set the deck hieght of the block based on the highest pistons on each side, not just the (only) one you checked on one side of the block




I agree 100%
Posted By: tywebb2

Re: Should I Make Engine (440)This Winter? - 11/27/10 06:03 PM

I really didn't feel like going into it that far. I just want to mill the heads to bump the compression up a bit. Looking in the old Mopar Engine book it says .090" of clearance is safe for an auto trans. Based on that I could take .030" off and pick up a half a point in compression. Like I said...all I need is another tenth or two in ET to have a solid 11.5 which is my limit because the car isn't caged.
Posted By: Sport440

Re: Should I Make Engine (440)This Winter? - 11/28/10 12:41 AM

That MP number is way conservitive. The intake valve is opening from a rested seated position chasing the piston down the bore at its closest clearence.

You could probably go as tight as .020 and never have contact. I wouldnt go any tighter then .050 to .060 You will be fine with a .080 or .070 depending how far you want to mill your heads.


You still need to check your radial clearence. So far some has stated the 6 pac pistons are clearenced for 2.14 valves and some say they arent. Or was that you? Thats still up in the air for me, cause I dont know, mike
Posted By: tywebb2

Re: Should I Make Engine (440)This Winter? - 12/11/10 03:29 PM

I called Jim Dowell at Racer Brown yesterday just to ask him where the compression "sweet spot" was for the 509 cam. After talking with him he said I would see very minimal gain bumping the compression up a half point. I think he worked it out to about 9hp which he said could potentially get me a tenth.

He said my biggest gain would be in a converter change. He said the 10" I am running now is no good. He suggested switching to an 8". I have an ATI that I used to have in the Cuda but pulled out because I didn't like it on the street. He said I could pick up as much as a few tenths switching to the 8". I am going to call ATI next week to see if tightening it up a little would help make it more street friendly while still helping me out at the track.

The other option would be a 9.5". I talked to Shawn at Dynamic and he said putting one of their 9.5" verts in would pick up 2-3 tenths over the 10". He also said the vert change should get me 1.5 60' times.

So it looks like the head milling project may be on hold depending on what ATI tells me. Or I could do both
Posted By: Hot 340

Re: Should I Make Engine (440)This Winter? - 12/11/10 03:42 PM

Quote:

I called Jim Dowell at Racer Brown yesterday just to ask him where the compression "sweet spot" was for the 509 cam. After talking with him he said I would see very minimal gain bumping the compression up a half point. I think he worked it out to about 9hp which he said could potentially get me a tenth.

He said my biggest gain would be in a converter change. He said the 10" I am running now is no good. He suggested switching to an 8". I have an ATI that I used to have in the Cuda but pulled out because I didn't like it on the street. He said I could pick up as much as a few tenths switching to the 8". I am going to call ATI next week to see if tightening it up a little would help make it more street friendly while still helping me out at the track.

The other option would be a 9.5". I talked to Shawn at Dynamic and he said putting one of their 9.5" verts in would pick up 2-3 tenths over the 10". He also said the vert change should get me 1.5 60' times.

So it looks like the head milling project may be on hold depending on what ATI tells me. Or I could do both


So I guess racer brown advice discredits all the above?
Posted By: 340B5

Re: Should I Make Engine (440)This Winter? - 12/11/10 04:53 PM

It takes about 13-15 HP to gain a tenth on a 3000lb car(at your present ET). You might try 1.6 rockers on the intake side and increase the compression to 11:1. A decent port job should gain 2 tenths. Don't forget the short-turn if you do anything more than unshroud valves.

Of course I'm just a keyboard racer, but I did stay at a Holliday Inn once
Posted By: mopardamo

Re: Should I Make Engine (440)This Winter? - 12/11/10 05:33 PM

Hello,

Low compression and the 509 will cuase a very soft motor on the low end. Been there done that with the 6pak pistons in a .030 over 440 with 906 heads. Getting the comprssion up on that cam is a big help. When I changed cams I needed more p-v clearance. I taped the motor off and greased the heck out of each bore and piston top. Then I hand ground the necessary clearances. Bringing each piston to tdc one at a time to do the work. A good cleaning of course and put it all back together. Did this with the engine in the car. So if you are careful you can get the clearances it needs without pulling the motor.

Damon
Posted By: Sport440

Re: Should I Make Engine (440)This Winter? - 12/11/10 06:24 PM

Your changes were going to net you nearly a 1.point in comp, not .5 From your ccurrent 9.9 to about 10.9 @ 75cc, more if you used the .020 shim vs the .027 cometic.

You can play with vert changes too, theres more the one way to skin a cat. From experience your 509 cam would love the jump in comp from 9.9.IMO mike
Posted By: tywebb2

Re: Should I Make Engine (440)This Winter? - 12/12/10 03:29 AM

Sorry...I didn't mean any disrespect. Everyone here on Moparts has been more than helpful to me and as a younger guy the information I have learned here has been invaluable. I was just posting another perspective on the subject based on a call I made. Jim Dowell has always been helpful to me and never pushes his cams on me even when I think I need another one.

I can definately speak to the fact that the 440 with the 509 and low compression can be "soft" down low. With the help of Sport440 and Dodgem on this board we solved that problem in a BIG way earlier this year. I found out my cam was in retarded 2*. I advanced it 8* to 102* and it is a beast down low now. First time to the track and I it just kept blowing the tires off of it. Put Caltracs on it and that took care of the traction problem so now we are looking for a little more ET to get to the magic 11.5 mark.

The way I see it I have two things to work on now. I think I will start by reinstalling my 8" vert and then will run the car in the spring and see if there is any improvement. I am wondering if it is possible that I will like the 8" vert on the street now that I have the cam advanced and more bottom end power? I figure its worth a try.

Then after I get the track#'s after the vert change, I can bump up the compression and see how much more that gains me. Sound like a plan?
Posted By: pinkduster

Re: Should I Make Engine (440)This Winter? - 12/12/10 03:53 AM

Quote:

The other option would be a 9.5". I talked to Shawn at Dynamic and he said putting one of their 9.5" verts in would pick up 2-3 tenths over the 10". He also said the vert change should get me 1.5 60' times.




I have one of their 9.5" verts and I'm not going 1.5 60s. Then again, I'm still on SS springs. I'm curious, how much did you pick up on your 60s when you went from SS to Caltrac? My best so far is a 1.665. I'd love to see a 1.5.

FWIW, we have similar builds and run similar times. I would like to get down to 11.5 as well and have no intentions of putting a cage in my car.
Posted By: Ari440

Re: Should I Make Engine (440)This Winter? - 12/12/10 04:31 AM



I have one of their 9.5" verts and I'm not going 1.5 60s. Then again, I'm still on SS springs. I'm curious, how much did you pick up on your 60s when you went from SS to Caltrac? My best so far is a 1.665. I'd love to see a 1.5








me in the car ,bottem hole on the caltracs

just touching drivers side , pass side two flats, rancho 9000 #7 setting

I was 1.49 60 ft

put two flats more both sides

1.42 60 ft

put two more flats on both side again

1.40 60 ft

29.5 10.5 m/t slicks 13 pounds
Posted By: tywebb2

Re: Should I Make Engine (440)This Winter? - 12/12/10 04:44 AM

Before I advanced my cam 8* my previous best 60' was a 1.716 on a 11.834 (with the 10" vert). With the 8" vert it as a 1.657 on a 11.817.

I put the 10" vert back in the car because I didn't like the 8" on the street. Then the following year I advanced the cam 8* and went to the track. Major traction problems and I ran a best of 11.814 and a 1.701 60'.

I put the Caltracs on and had a couple tuning runs and so far ran a best of 11.673 with a 1.663 60'.
Posted By: 6PACMAC

Re: Should I Make Engine (440)This Winter? - 12/15/10 02:54 AM

Maybe just change your camshaft. Something with a 'tighter'' as in less advertised duration, but, with more lift, on a little wider lobe sep may make the engine 'think' it has more compression. It should have better bottom end and more power throughout its range. Just a thought.
Posted By: 383man

Re: Should I Make Engine (440)This Winter? - 12/15/10 03:13 AM

Quote:

Quote:

The other option would be a 9.5". I talked to Shawn at Dynamic and he said putting one of their 9.5" verts in would pick up 2-3 tenths over the 10". He also said the vert change should get me 1.5 60' times.




I have one of their 9.5" verts and I'm not going 1.5 60s. Then again, I'm still on SS springs. I'm curious, how much did you pick up on your 60s when you went from SS to Caltrac? My best so far is a 1.665. I'd love to see a 1.5.

FWIW, we have similar builds and run similar times. I would like to get down to 11.5 as well and have no intentions of putting a cage in my car.






I also use a Dynamic 9.5 vert that flashes about 4200 at the track. I have gotten into the 1.50's with my best 60 of a 1.57 on an 11.55 pass and all I use is just SS springs. I had a 1.60 sixty on my 11.49 pass as it did not hook great but hooked ok on that run. It was just a great air day. The 1.57 was at Capital and my best 60 at Cecil has been an 1.58. I really like my 9.5 Dynamic verter and will be trying it behind my 493 eng I am building. Ron
Posted By: 602heavy

Re: Should I Make Engine (440)This Winter? - 12/15/10 03:48 AM

Quote:


So it looks like the head milling project may be on hold depending on what ATI tells me. Or I could do both




Milling those heads would be the best thing if nothing else , will have better street manners along with cooler temps , plugs will stay cleaner too eliminating that horrible stink out the tailpipes..... soot soot soot.......

Posted By: tywebb2

Re: Should I Make Engine (440)This Winter? - 12/15/10 04:07 AM

Yeah...I probably will go ahead and mill the heads anyway over the winter just to give me something to do. Soot reduction would also be a plus.

Thanks for the info on the Dynamic converter Ron. I figure I'll throw my 8" ATI back in the car and mess around with it next year to see what happens before I spend the money on a 9.5". I talked to John Lane at ATI this week and he told me I have the tightest 8" vert they make. Based on my numbers and specs he thinks I either have something going on in the transmission or a fuel delivery problem. He said the 727 has a poor convert charge circuit and suggested I check the line pressure to see where it is at. He said it should be 150-185psi...with 115-130psi being low.

The fuel issue could be real I guess? My 60' improved .06 with the 8" vert yet my ET moved .02 at best. I started another thread on here asking what the limit on a mechanical fuel pump is. I am currently running a Carter street/strip mechanical fuel pump with 3/8" line. I wonder now if that is enough?
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