How do I get a leaf spring car to hook up?

I'm putting a new combo in my '69 'Cuda. It's a 498 low deck, 12.3:1 B1 headed wedge. The car weighs 3000 with me and the small block in it now. I am running small block torsion bars in the front end and super stock springs in the back. The car is mini tubbed and runs 28x10 slicks. I have an 8 pt. cage and the subframes are tied. What do I need to do to get this thing to hook up. I would like to keep it leaf sprung and not go to a coil over setup in the front. There is a distinct possibility that I will put a blower on this motor and run it on alcohol with a little bit of boost. Why not right? I just want to get the car to hook up a majority of the time and not want to hit the wall every time I take it out. I've done that and I don't really want to make a habbit out of it. I appologise for my ignorance on this subject. My dad and I built this car when I was in high school 13 years ago and it's been sitting with the moth ball fleet since 2001. I haven't studied Mopars for quite a while and I thought you guys could help me out. Thanks

FWIW, I use 002/003 SS springs QA-1 single adjustable shocks and no snubber in the rear.

Up front is all stock except the usual '73 & up disc brake swap, CE shocks set to 90/10, /6 bars and about 5" of travel.

Been 1.38's in the 60' and still tuning

Never had an issue with the car not going straight & true. If you do then you need to start measuring the car.

use Caltrac in front and rear and your problem is solved

I'd think a wise investment would be some bigger slicks,mini tub it and put all the tire you can under it. Caltracs work pretty good, but so doSS springs, but a bigger tire will help both of them a lot.

a guy in vista, california named greg luneack builds leaf springs for stock and super stock cars. they are called the launchers. he will build them strictly for your car. set you up with the right rancho shocks to run google his name and look at some of his drag cars leaving the line. i also heard the new super stock springs arent that good. heard a guy at the indy mopar show in march that the new ss springs are made in mexico and just arent as good as the old ones

The new SS springs are poor quality and yes, they are made in Mexico.

Launchers seem to work good (I'd use them before SS springs any day), but I haven't seen any on really quick cars. They may be out there, but I haven't seen em.

The fastest leaf spring cars in the country are running Cal-Tracs. Enough said.

i had a very good nhra stocker driver (mopar) that he loved luneacks springs its just that the cal tracs are 30 pounds light

Tri-city super stock springs.....ya , thats Greg 760-630-9094 . Top grade springs !!!!

Launching with leafs is all in 2 things good movement
in the front end(try for 5" minimum) and SHOCKS...
good shocks... its in the control of the body raising
cant have it going up too fast.... while alot of guys
use the Rancho 9 way on the rear alot of times you
will be at max or near max on the settings

It can be done. You need your combo to work together. Engine, gear, converter, front and rear suspension, tires, weight placement, ect.
My combo has taken a while to sort out, but well worth the time and effort.
'72 E body Barracuda 3200#
14 point roll cage
+.030 440
calvert front shocks
727 home built
Turbo Action "J" converter
Turbo Action man valve body
SS rear springs (Mesican made)
NO snubber
NO caltracts
4:56 Dana w/spool
Mickey Thomp 11.5 X 29.5
1.39 60'
6.59, 102 mph 1/8 mile
10.49, 127 mph 1/4 mile

If I can help you, PM me on here.

Brian Dunnigan

Thank you for all your input. The car is already mini tubbed. I've searched to no avail so can anyone point me in the right direction on my front end setup? Like I said before its stock. That's my big worry. I can run a cal tracs setup in the back and jam the biggest tire I can fit under the car. I'm totally lost on the front end though. Any help would be appreciated.

Do you have /6 bars up front ... gives you more stored
energy to assist the front lift... caltrac front shocks
are pretty decent for the fronts... get 5" of front
movement

I agree with Mike. My car has a stock front end (replacement moog parts, tie rod ends, idler arm, upper and lower ball joints) 6 cyl torsion bars, calvert front shocks, stock steering box.
Adjustments are as much caster as possible, camber 0*, toe in 1/8", with all settings made 1.5" above static height.

Brian

Is the car not hooking now? With the BB I'd leave the SB T bars in it, /6 bars may have to be cranked way up to raise the front where it needs to be. Good S/S springs, LONG shocks, and a properly set up rear spring hanger that lets the chassis rise are needed. A 2" shim between the top rear shackle bracket and the frame works wonders to let the shackle swing forward as the chassis rises. Long shocks or shocks with extenders will insure you're not using all the shock travel up and topping out the shocks. The pinion angle needs to be checked too, and either wedge shims or welding on new perches at the right orientation for the proper pinion angle.

The car hooks great now, but it only goes 11.0s. I just know that I'm going to have to change some things before I throw some real horsepower at it. I'de love to take some advice here and make changes rather than trial by wall. I've done that and it wasn't as fun as one might think.