Cut off switch haviong gremlins

Any body ever had issues with those rear mounted Moroso type battery shut off/cut off switches?

Mine was running great till I disconnecting the cables and wires to make way during the restoration of my trunk area and re-connected every thing as it was and now no ignition or cranking except for the fuel pump only because it is wired straight to the relay and circuit breaker out back. What gives?
Maybe not a good ground on the switch?
Maybe not a good ground on the battery?

my first cut off switch was a moroso unit. second season it started misbehaving. hard to start sometimes, working perfectly other times, i swapped batteries & the problem persisted. swapped switches & no more problems. i think mine may have got water damage since it didn't look 100% waterproof to me.

Lay your volt meter on both lugs (one at a time) and see if your getting anything in either position. One thing you can do, and I learned about this in electrical school, is take it off and smack it lightly with a "soft" mallet, work the handle back and forth a few times and smack it again. When these have been on a car for a while then sit unused for a time they will corrode inside, smacking them then "exercizing" them can bring them back again. The breakers in your house are this way, they need to be exercized to keep them from freezing up inside or they may not give the protection they are there for.

I had problems with 2 Taylor cuoff switches after a few months.It would start then it wouldnt .I excersized the cutoff switch weekly and still messed up after a few months.Finally went to the dirt track store and bought a Quickcar brand .No problems with this one.Out of curiousity i cut open one of the Taylors and it was full of scale and corrosion .So much for weather proof.No problems with the Quickcar brand yet...

The Moroso master switch doesnt need a ground... its
just a switch... if it doesnt check out with a ohms
meter get a new one

P-body, How many ohms should it dish out?

I saw a battery cut off switch that had to have corrosion inside cause the batterys to go dead when sitting. The owner of the car couldn't figure out which accessory was causing the current drain so he would turn the switch off when not using it, even at the races. I measured across the two cables and saw .5 volts when switch off He would then disconnect the battery cable until he could buy another switch, we where at the races for two days. It should be zero volts to ground on the hot side when in the off postion. As far as how many ohms in the off postion I didn't measure that as he didn't want to remove the cables and I didn't think of measuring it in ohms. It should read infinite ohms, none in the off position and right at zero ohms in the on position, maybe one tenth ohm or less in the on position if your using a digital ohm meter.

I will try to explain a continuity test some.
Its a great way to test the on/off positions of a switch sections of wire to see if there bad,.
He's just saying to check continuity....Put your Volt meter in the 20K Ohm position. Touch both ends of the volt meter probes together while watching the volt meter it should read and jump..The is just a way to test say a length of wire to see if its broken in the middle.
You can test the switch, it should have continuity on the on position, it should NOT read or jump any on the off position.
This is the same way the check spark plug wires, and were they get the 40-50 ohms per foot from.

Thank you fellas.

Okay. Believe it or not I found the Gremlin, and it sure was hiding in plain sight.
My main lead positive RED battery cable where it attaches to the cut off switch was just that, cut off.
What was hiding the break in the cable was the heat shrink wrapping that I installed back in 1990.
I never thought that the cable would spread lose from the compression eyelid terminal.
I found it by accident when I moved the cable off the cut off switch and it fell apart in my hands like perfectly cooked roast beef off the bone.

I rebuilt it and the old fella fired up like a champ after a year of hibernation.

Thanks guys.

Quote:

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Okay. Believe it or not I found the Gremlin, and it sure was hiding in plain sight.
My main lead positive RED battery cable where it attaches to the cut off switch was just that, cut off.
What was hiding the break in the cable was the heat shrink wrapping that I installed back in 1990.
I never thought that the cable would spread lose from the compression eyelid terminal.
I found it by accident when I moved the cable off the cut off switch and it fell apart in my hands like perfectly cooked roast beef off the bone.

I rebuilt it and the old fella fired up like a champ after a year of hibernation.

Thanks guys.

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Glad to hear you found your problem