Sorry buy WHY??

That's really just old school. The way the "trick" Mopar rear suspension evolved over time was leafs, then leafs/floaters/ladders and then coil overs/ladders or a 4-link. With Cal Tracs and decent prices on coil overs today there is no advantage, or reason for this. The leaf/ladder bar deal is just added weight. Will it work? Of course, it's just from another era.

Back in the mid-80's, I bought a former record holding FAST Super Stock Belvedere...it had a home-made 4 link and leafs!! Crazy, but it HOOKED!

only reason I ask in Bondo has a set of ladders and crossbar for sale and I would assume its all abody stuff. but at a great price of course

thanks for the input and yes weight is an issue thats why i lost 24 pounds probly would have been easier taking it out of teh car.

There are two options with ladder bars and leaf springs, sliders or floaters. The better rear suspension with ladder bars is aluminum externally adjustable rear coil overs coil overs with either a diagonal link, Watts link, panhard bar or a wishbone to locate the rear end and keep it line up on center. I have driven two ladder bar cars with coil overs and the diagonal link, and one with leaf springs and a slider. All three cars where easy to drive, I won races with all three and so did several other people in the first ladder bar car with leaf springs and the first ladder bar car with coil overs The last car is my current car and no one else has driven it at the races My next drag race car will be a four link car with coil overs and a wishbone, I hope

wouldnt the tow be comparable to a slide a link or a caltrac bar???

My car was the test mule during the early 70'ths
Check the old "direct connection" bible.

I have never driven a car that is so calm and easy to drive, and I have driven alot of diffrent cars, even some FED and altered wheelbase.
I went a 1.39 60feet and 6.45 on 1/8 with a almost stock 440 sixpack :-)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LR1Y6SzgDNs

Would this car be a orange challenger from Ohio?

His car is the old Paul Rossi Challenger in his sig.

Ditch the floater and slide the front spring eye.

Not sure I follow you Cab.
By allowing the front spring eye for and aft movement, you alleviate the contradicting arc movements of the ladder bar and leaf spring.
Sliding the front eye eliminates the cost and wght of the floater.
elongate the hole in chassis 1/2" fore and aft of original hole center, reinforce with some thicker plate above, below hole to support eye bolt as it slides.
at that point, the spring just holds the car up and the ladder positions it.
Dont know what you mean by saying the floater allows the rear end to move up and down.
Once the floater is installed, the height is fixed, some have hgt adjustment.
The floater allows for for and aft movement thru its pivot.
As long as there is freedom for the leaf to move, the binding problem caused by the 2 conflicting arcs is a non issue, no?