barton hemi rockers

edelbrock/mopar heads with cast mp valve covers,seem to fit good,i noticed in this kit there are two sizes of shims,since i am running factory installed height springs,do i need any shims?

Rockers themselves are great, But would recommend some mods to the oiling. those tubes down the center a marginal at best. Been fighting a set for 6 months now (burned pushrods) ended up making a set of spraybars for the valve covers to rain down from above that fixed the problem. Tried more holes,bigger holes, none were enough to fix it. Called Barton,said they were aware of the problem,and to drill more holes. Was not happy.

I AM GONNA RUN EDM FERRARA TOOL SOLIDS WITH PUSHROD OILING WILL THIS HELP?

Did they change something with these rockers? I have a set in my car since 2004 and haven't had a problem. I just put in new roller lifters last weekend and everything looked good. Oil everywere and nothing blue.
I have about 1500 street miles on the motor and maybe 20 times down the track since the motor was last apart.
Maybe I've just been lucky so far?

i been here reading posts alot,and talkin to barton,roller cams walk alot in b/rb,wear cam buttons ,then bronze oil shafts wear very quick...not really street-able.i dont want to go belt drive,too much money....for a belt to wear so quick,then i have seen my friends pins on his roller lifters come out,plus they are heavy and depending on the base circle on the cam,the tie bars might hit the block and or pushrods might rub,plus they are heavy.barton even talked me out of it sayin i will have problems if i go roller in a hemi,just not reliable he said.fred dont get me wrong i love love rollers,but i hate problems more than anything in a build or when its done.my friends 408 mustang has a thrust plate so his cam does not walk,he gets to runs a steel gear dizzy shaft with his roller cam.

i am gonna run nitrated solid flat tappet cam,tool steel lightweight ferrera solid edm lifters,manton pushrods with oiling and a pro gear timing set.if some has a better suggestion please post.

I have to agree. super high dollars rockers like that seem overkill for your setup. good luck with the build though!

Nice product, a bit of overkill for most engines.
I was surprised to see comments (not claims made by Barton) on other BBS that "side-thrust is eliminated", and "the exhaust rocker weight is substantially reduced".
Neither of these are true. The skewed exhaust rockers now have thrust in both axes at both the roller tip and the pushrod adjuster, and the tip now rolls across the stem tip in one plane and scrubs sideways in the other (although the amount is small). The weight saved is mostly in the (missing) central cylinder body, which has almost no inertial content.

I'm also surprised that Barton does not claim something very useful: his allows independent intake and exhaust rocker shaft height adjustments for geometry. If you have a dual pattern cam with different lifts, this is helpful.
To adjust both, shim the entire plate.
To adjust only the exhausts, shim all 8 individual bases.
To adjust only the intakes, shim the intake stands.
1-piece shaft stands, such as stock, are a headache here: if you move the stand, all rocker move the same amount, which means you need lash caps (or G_d forbid, angle-milling the stands) to correct geo on only 1 side.

Does his literature include any tips for geo correction?

I just replaced the Comp Cams lifters with the Isky EZ rolls.
If these live up to their name their is no reason to not to run a roller on the street except the intermediate shaft.

FYI Barton hates running roller cams on the street.

thanks for the info guy keep it commin,i have not ordered cam,lifters pushrods yet so i am stiil open minded.i would have never bought this barton set up cause as you see,i have new mp rockers,new mp shafts and billet cnc steel stands no longer made by megaparts.i know this is the hot set and proven and oils very well,but i got the best deal of a lifetime on this new barton set up.if i told you how much i paid you will not believe me,the guy was local and was hurting for dough.

how come my buddys ford 408 can run a steel gear on a custom ground roller cam that was made for my buddy by bullet?he is a touch over 600 lift too....can a b/rb/hemi be set up like this?are they using a different process's to make ford cams?please explain....

Hey, the Barton/TD Roller Rockers are top of the line stuff. I don't see the down side to using them on the street. Yes they are more money but at least you only have to buy the rockers once.
No sense on skimping when it comes to Hemi Valve train, it will cost you now or later, and LATER is usually more expensive.

Just my opinion.

I believe you should choose the cam based on your performance needs. If you are going to do a mild 600 hp build with a solid cam you really don't need the Barton set up but since you practically stole them its no loss. If you are building a mild build you could sell the Bartons for a profit. I'm sure you could get a good price for them. They look like new.
I have a pump gas 528 with a 700 roller. The motor made 845 hp on Bartons dyno. The car is very streetable but very loud. It doesn't bother me but my wife doesn't like the noise.
The power is more than most people need on the street. What is you intended use for the motor?

I don't know why everyone is saying they are way overkill or not needed? I have them in my "street" motor with a solid lift cam? When you don't have anything i would rather spend the extra 3-400 on the t&d/Bartons then on a stock type setup. I have about 8000 miles on my junk and never had a single problem

how much are stage v's? how much are Indys? I say MONEY WELL SPENT

ok tell me where i can get some for 1000.00

They are a great setup. As usual with T&D stuff, the quality is exemplary.

While I do see the point of those that think they are overkill in some cases, you can never go wrong over spending on the hardest working part in any high performance engine-mild or wild. And that is the rocker gear. I have lived through the headaches of the stock hemi rocker gear that was killing the pushrods, galling the tips, poor geometry, ratio inconsistencies and so on. When you look at it between the long pushrods at crazy angles, it's a small wonder the stuff held together as good as it did.

If you really want to talk overkill, everytime I hear about the guys barely making 650HP with a Bryant crank, well, that's more of a case of overkill.

MB

hey sublime. just post up what you paid for them to end this train wreck!