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I would be very interested in seeing this calculator also!
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It is a bit confusing to me? For stroke it says "Same units as rod length" and for Rod length it says "Same units as stroke" so do I enter rod length for stroke and stroke for rod length?
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It is a bit confusing to me? For stroke it says "Same units as rod length" and for Rod length it says "Same units as stroke" so do I enter rod length for stroke and stroke for rod length?
I was thinking they meant metric or american
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Mike,
If you can use an excell spead sheet, pm me your private email address and I will send you a file that will do this.
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mike compr. is a relative test. cam timing / bleed off has a lot to do with it. if the cyls are within 10-15% thats ok. leak down will tell if the cylinder/valves are sealing good. Don
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This one seems to be real close
http://www.rbracing-rsr.com/comprAdvHD.htm
I'm scratching my head now 
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This one seems to be real close
http://www.rbracing-rsr.com/comprAdvHD.htm
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mike compr. is a relative test. cam timing / bleed off has a lot to do with it. if the cyls are within 10-15% thats ok. leak down will tell if the cylinder/valves are sealing good. Don
That I know and thats why I dont want to go by that
calculator above... it doesnt ask the IVC point which
is a must know
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Does anyone know of a cranking compression calculator
to see what I should see for my engine... I'm going
to do a compression test today and a leak down but I
would like to know what it SHOULD be
thanks
... no wonder
Quote:Are those advertised #`s or @.050?
mine comes in at 9.5 dynamic with 200psi. this is with 11.4 static using a 268/272 solid roller.
Remember to add in your cam advance cause it closes the intake earlier, the calc guys left that out
............unless you know where the intake valve closes (seat) then it's a all guessing game. 
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I don't see how you can work backwards to CR from cranking compression. Put a 16V system on there and the cranking compression will go up due to the faster cranking speed. Pull all the plugs and pull the carb off the intake and the cranking compression will go up a bunch. Do it warm and the cranking compression will go up.
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Well with checking all the different calculators and
doing a compression check MAYBE I dont have the compression
I thought I had.... I cant believe I was that far off
when I checked the measurements when I built it....
it comes up with a 9.5 compression ratio on just about
all of them..... I did a leak down and that showed
pretty decent, from 2% to 7%
I'm
not making the power I figure it should
Mike did you cc the block and the chamber? That will tell the truth. Don
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I don't understand any of this stuff you all are WORRYING about. If the engine was put together and you KNOW what the static compression is/was/should be,,,you are not going to change that figure with all these 'calculations'. A leak-down test will show you if there is a problem in the valves/rings/headgaskets etc. Why worry and ask questions about your engine? If the leakage is high,,you have a problem in that cylinder.....simple enough I think.
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I think once you have your intake closing point close for the calc it should fall with in 10 psi of your gauge reading, the calcs are a little confusing on the duration methods
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I think once you have your intake closing point close for the calc it should fall with in 10 psi of your gauge reading, the calcs are a little confusing on the duration methods
It came real close once I added the 40* (which I didnt
read before)... I guess you need to read the directions...LOL
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i used the not to fast one on my
4.15 crank
6.670 rod
12 to 1 flat top with a .484 mp hyd cam
shows cranking pressure of 200
and when i built it last year with file fit rings it showed 180-185 every cyl
