Battery relocation wire question

OK, I know people have opinions on this subject, that being said copper wire transfers current on the outside of said strand, meaning a cable with more strands has less impedence than a cable with fewer strands, welding cable has a softer jacket to it to allow a welder to move around, thats all the other cables have a stiffer jacket to take abrasions and abuse, one not being better than the other in a race car enviroment, back to your normal daily opinions. John

you'll also need a ground cable to terminate close to the starter on the engine block and a ground lug off that for accessories. I see a lot of guys use the body of the car for ground IE ground from battery to the body then pick up grounds off the body. Not the best plan IMO.

Thanks for your oppinions. If I understand correctly more strands are better? I have found welding cable and Monster cable both 1/0 for exacctly the same price $60/25ft. Which would you think is better for this application?

just get the kit from painless. you don't really need 1 guage. #2 will do fine. the kit comes with all the ends you will need.

Correct, more strands, better for our application. I dont think one would be any better than the other. Monster cable used to make a good product, and it may have a pvc jacket of sorts that will createa little better barrier from the elements it you are running it outside the car. The other side of that is the rubber jacket on the welding cable will be thicker. I dont think you will have issues either way, but I personally would pick welding cable, but Im an electrician so my opinion my be swayed because of that.

Also check with your local electrical supply house... ie CED or Crescent or Wesco and ask them to quote you welding cable, or DLO cable.

Nothing against painless wiring , but most of kits are only 15ft. like Josh said check your local electrical supply houses, they also have the correct stlye lugs to use also. and Iagree with Rodney, we also run same size neg cable back, chassis is not the best ground. John

I've had my Welding Cable....I mean Battery Cable on my car for over 20 years.
Never an issue and personally I like it.

Call terminal supply company. I just bought 25 ft roll of 0/1 and it was about 65$, and they tossed in 4 ft of 0/1 ground for free. The top post battery ends are about 5$ each.

You get what you pay for. Originally my dad bought a Taylor kit. The brackets were good, but the insulation was cheap. It did not with stand the heat when soldering the ends on. The terminal supply wire did a great job with standing the heat (and its actually for automotive use).

Justin

Just my opinion, but a good compression crimped connection is better than a soldered one in high ampacity situations like this

Do most people run their ground all the way to the engine block or just the frame? Also, I recall seeing a post showing a wiring diagram for mounting the solenoid and shutoff switch in the trunk. Does anyone know where that link is? Thanks

Not sure of your ignition system, but most of them prefer ground going back to the battery and not the frame, so if you have to run ground to the front of the car anway, you might as well just run a large one and hit a distribution block and take good grounds to all your equipment

Welder lead for the positive on mine from the master cuttoff to the starter,along with ground cable from battery to chassis and then from the chassis to the block up front.Using heavy copper wire from alt all the way to the battery in the trunk .No issues and starts and charges every time ...

Here's that link you wanted ...

http://www.madelectrical.com/catalog/tm-1.shtml

Might want to check out a marine supply for the cable. If your running the cable out side of the car. Welding cable will draw moisture, marine cable will not. I run both cables from the battery switch at the back to the engine, also grounding at the back frame.

Might want to check out a marine supply for the cable. If your running the cable out side of the car. Welding cable will draw moisture, marine cable will not. I run both cables from the battery switch at the back to the engine, also grounding at the back frame.


Did You run a 1/0 Ground back too the battery and ground the 1/0 to the rear frame as well ?
Could you not use a smaller gauge Ground at the rear frame if your running a full ground battery too block anyway ?


Ron

Now if you weren't already confused.......

Electric currents in copper wires are a flow of electrons, but these electrons are not supplied by batteries. Generators do not 'generate' them. Instead the electrons come from the wire. In copper wire, copper atoms supply the flowing electrons. The electrons in a circuit were already there before the battery was connected. They were even there before the copper was mined and made into wires! Batteries and generators do not create these electrons, they merely pump them, and the electrons act like a pre-existing fluid which is always found within all wires. In order to understand electric circuits, we must imagine that all the wires are pre-filled with a sort of "liquid electricity."

To clarify this, get rid of the battery. Instead, use a hand-cranked generator as your power supply. Ask yourself exactly where the flowing "electricity" comes from when a generator powers a light bulb. A hand-cranked generator contains a coil and some magnets. When cranked, it takes electrons in from one terminal and simultaneously spits them out the other terminal. At the same time, the generator pushes electrons through the rotating coil of wire inside itself. It also pushes them through the rest of the circuit. So where did these electrons come from? Unlike the situation with a battery-powered circuit, all we have here is wires. Inside the generator is just more wires. Where is the source of this flowing "electricity?"


When we include the generator in the circuit, we find that the circuit is a continuous closed loop, and we can find no single place where the "electricity" originates. A generator is like a closed-loop pump, but it does not supply the substance being pumped. Batteries are like this as well. The liquid between the battery plates is an electrolyte, and electrolytes are conductors. Some batteries contain acid, others are alkaline batteries, and still others use conductive salt water. Flowing charges go through the battery, and no charges build up inside.


But weren't we all taught during grade-school that "batteries and generators create Current Electricity"? This phrase forms a serious conceptual stumbling block (at least it did for me!) To fix it, get rid of the bogus idea called "Current Electricity". Instead change the statement to read like this:

"Batteries and generators cause electric charge to flow."
To complete the picture, add this: all conductors are full of movable charge. That's what a conductor is, it's a material which contains movable charge.

A battery or generator is like your heart: it moves blood, but it does not create blood. When a generator stops, or when the metal circuit is opened, all the electrons stop where they are, and the wires remain filled with electric charges. But this isn't unexpected, because the wires were full of vast quantities of charge in the first place.