Turbo Big Block Header Pics

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there is a little more room then what appears in the pictures, but not a lot. I would say I have 3" or so from the cap to the tube. We are actually looking at making a heat shield for that crossover tube, just in case though

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Ever though about just using header wrap? My down pipe is about 1/2" away from my cap and the wrap works well. Really keeps the heat down.

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Well that isn’t going to work for a street car.

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Well that isn’t going to work for a street car.

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Do you mean because it looks like it hangs low?

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I am lookin for ideas for fabbing up my big block turbo headers. Post your pics please!!!!!

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all out race or ?? Not a big fan here of fancy expensive turbo headers.I can speak first hand of have used a set of Sandersen Block hugger 1 7/8" street headers at a cost of 199.00 to feed a car that went 7.21 and 192 mph.
My twin tubo hemi made 2047 hp and 1975 lb torque using
homemade logs with zero consideration of tuning length or any theorectical engineering advantage. when you can make that much HP without the cost of fancy ones leaving that money for other items I think you are ahead of the game.

I would make something like a flange weld on a factory manifold or a log.anything that simpifies installation and cuts cost

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Well it will be street legal But it will be built to race. It will be a 512 low deck big block with indy heads and a 106mm precision turbo blowin through a dominator

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logs make power, but wont last

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what happened to them ? your experience with their lifespan was how short ? what material was used ? since all we are using is logs maybe I can benefit from that info.

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I threw them in the garbage after ruining the second turbo(I'll explain in a minuite, my fault).My experience with lifespan can be divided in two... How long I had them and used them, and how long I could use them without repairing them. On the first, I would say around 8-10 years. On the second, as they aged, failure went up exponentially. It got to the point that after a few hard runs they would crack. I have to admit that I use retarded timing/high fueling for launch/boost control, which takes its toll. I got so tired of fixing cracks that I stopped taking them off to fix them. This procedure is what lead to turbo failure. Weld slag hitting your turbine wheel isn't healthy for your turbo. Guys, I strongly suggest using a purging gas on the inside of the tubes to stop any slag/sugaring from happening.
My logs started out with 3/4" steel plates for flanges, and steel scd 40 weld els from a place in town called R&B Wagner. Over time the tubing started shrinking, but the flanges didn't. This caused broken studs, warped flanges, blown gaskets, cracked cylinder heads... I would machine the flanges flat, and they would just bow again(easier and easier every time, getting thinner). I've had this discussion before, and I'm convinced that with some slip fit expansion joints placed in the right areas, they would have been much less troublesome. I spent big money on building my stainless headers, and gained no performance, but I never had to touch the exhaust for repairs after going that route, and would gladly spend the money again to do it on the next car.
This is the only picture I could find of my old logs. It's a copy of a copy, so its pretty rough.