Lower control arm lenght??

http://www.heidts.com/support_suspension_101.html

here is the answer to all your questions

i made a home made weld in MII setup for my duster based on this info abd it has worked perfect since day one

I believe the answer you are looking for, they are unequal lenght becuase they want a certain amount of camber change, reason being as the car turns and body rolls, you would get positive camber, not good for turning, with negative camber as wheel compresses, additional negative camber keeps the tire in better road contact. Its all a big set of compromises anyway. bump Steer refers more to Toe changes as the wheel raises and lowers, due to cornering, braking, or accelerating or some combination.

Hemi Fred,
I also like the way that your car has the added bracket to put the lower control arm in double shear. Your's is the only one I've seen so far that has done that. Just hanging the LCA out there on a stud with a bushing (and no torsion bar to keep it in check), don't look right to me.
Thanks, Brian

I don't think so, but not sure what you are going to gain, and I'm not one to advise what direction you should go, but I watch from the sidelines, I would though not toss all handing assumptions aside becuase you are only doing a 1/4 at a time, evasive or crossedup situations it might be useful to have.

My lower control arms are shortened. The length is identicle to the upper control arms. And like Pbody said the tie rods are the same length also.

The length of the rack is longer than the distance between the pivot points of the lower control arms. This works to be an advantage. When you make up the steering arm the tie rod end needs to be further out from center of the car than the ball joints in order to have proper ackerman. This control which wheel turns shorter than the other when turning. How much is not criticle but if you have negative ackerman you are hurting the handling of the car. In a drag car if the steering whell needs to turn you are already in trouble. So it is important to have a car that will have stable manners. My car is narrower than the later A-bodies so it all works out fine. This is not going to be the case on 67 and later A-bodies as well as the others. So you may want that lower control arm a little longer. Builders of strut cars have a measurement between frame rails they use for all of the cars. The measurement has to do with the length of the rack. This is not written in stone because you can get a shorter rack it just cost more.

A drag car does not need as much suspension travel as a factory built car. You need to limit how much compression the front end has so you don't flatten your oil pan or headers. Depending on how much power you have you may not need a lot of extension either.

Leon

Well, back to the drawing board for me.
I'm starting to believe an OLD racer friend of mine when he said, years ago I might add, "forget the weight, just build a bigger motor!"

Thanks, Brian

Bondobob he's got a nice kit. Bob's pro fab I think is the name.