4.500 BB Engine Blocks????????

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if its NA don't use aluminum we know that [Edited by Moparts - Family Friendly Site - Keep it clean] don't work

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a9sec70cuda runs a 4.500*4.500 Hemi (I think) in his NA 9.50's ....

Here is mine (race Version) 4.500 and will be NA until I have the guts to start throwing some N2O at it ... I noticed in my andyf book about the world blocks the street version are not tapped to run the powerglide or have the extra ribbing across the valley and the lifter bore's are not bushed like mine(race version) does.... Which also andy notes are more exspensive in his book.

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What I am looking for is Cast Iron, 4.500 Bore, Lifter bores bushed, Standard or raised cam block for 55mm cam, cross bolted mains. World used to have all their part numbers on thier web site but now it just show alum??

Did they run out of supply on the cast iron stuff. Really wanted their 4.500 cast iron race version. Just trying to figure out where all this info went.

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Call them on Monday, or even today to find out the straight scoop

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I think Koleno has a sale going on theirs. Arguably the best one out there.

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Thanks Chester

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Here's the scoop to some degree on whats going on with the cast iron Wedge blocks. Mopar ( go figure) actually waits till they get a number of backorders or their "system" sees a demand built up for a blcok order. They need to order them 100 at a time, and they also include the Hemi blocks into this "ordering process". Since there are approx 75-80 Hemi blocks in the system at the moment, there is no rush for them to order 100 blocks of any configuration. Until the 80 Hemi blocks get depleted to some degree, they wont be ordering more Wedge blocks.

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If you can't get a world one right away go with the Koleno one! Much better block in mind in the first place and well priced.

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Now there is a guy that knows what he is talking about!!!

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Here's the scoop to some degree on whats going on with the cast iron Wedge blocks. Mopar ( go figure) actually waits till they get a number of backorders or their "system" sees a demand built up for a blcok order. They need to order them 100 at a time, and they also include the Hemi blocks into this "ordering process". Since there are approx 75-80 Hemi blocks in the system at the moment, there is no rush for them to order 100 blocks of any configuration. Until the 80 Hemi blocks get depleted to some degree, they wont be ordering more Wedge blocks.

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Todd, thanks for posting that info so accurately.

I'd like to add: the above only applies to Mopar part numbered blocks sold through an authorized Mopar Performance Parts dealer.

It has nothing to do with World's business, or World's
in-house part numbers only sold through WP.

If you can't get a 4.500 "race" configuration wedge block (dual bellhousing patterns, etc)....since that configuration is not even offered by Mopar, it needs to be discussed with WP.

Mopar owns the tooling, but Mopar has nothing to do with race block production volume because Mopar does not sell that configuration, and has no active part numbers for that configuration.

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Thanks for all the info guys. If anyone knows why they need 100 blocks to be ordered first, we do.

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Look Here..

http://www.b1heads.com/pdf/Koffels_block.pdf


Chris..

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Thanks dude and they are on sale now

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You can also check this website for a list of distributors and engine builders www.kolenoperformance.com

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I am so curious as to why everyone thinks that iron is so unrepairable.
Beautiful car by the way

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It is not that cast is not repairable. The cost and availability make it not a viable option for many. I had a windowed Hemi block from when my old Hemi let go. I was going to have it repaired as it had all the oiling mods, lifter bushings etc done to it. However by the time I paid the cost to have it repaired out here I was 2/3 the way to a new block so I went that route instead. As for fixing the aluminum block it is FAR easier to find a competent place to have the work done. FWIW I had a Mega block fixed out here once, by the tim I paid to have the block welded, put in a the two sleeves it needed and paid for the misc machining required i had an additional $2K in it. Hardly worth the effort these days when I can pick up a World block for $2600. Maybe for someone in the casting business having cast repaired is a simple process but for us pee ons in the world it aint so easy, cost affective or worth the effort. I am just a simple bracket racer and to me having something a bit lighter that can be easily fixed is worth the extra $$. I would have to ask what does a Koleno block cost similar to my KB. It has 55MM cam with roller bearings,and bushed lifter bores, just curious what this set up would run me for a Koleno? BTW Just my on the subject.

BTW thanks for the kudos on the tank.

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I am so curious as to why everyone thinks that iron is so unrepairable.
Beautiful car by the way

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It is not that cast is not repairable. The cost and availability make it not a viable option for many. I had a windowed Hemi block from when my old Hemi let go. I was going to have it repaired as it had all the oiling mods, lifter bushings etc done to it. However by the time I paid the cost to have it repaired out here I was 2/3 the way to a new block so I went that route instead. As for fixing the aluminum block it is FAR easier to find a competent place to have the work done. FWIW I had a Mega block fixed out here once, by the tim I paid to have the block welded, put in a the two sleeves it needed and paid for the misc machining required i had an additional $2K in it. Hardly worth the effort these days when I can pick up a World block for $2600. Maybe for someone in the casting business having cast repaired is a simple process but for us pee ons in the world it aint so easy, cost affective or worth the effort. I am just a simple bracket racer and to me having something a bit lighter that can be easily fixed is worth the extra $$. I would have to ask what does a Koleno block cost similar to my KB. It has 55MM cam with roller bearings,and bushed lifter bores, just curious what this set up would run me for a Koleno? BTW Just my on the subject.

BTW thanks for the kudos on the tank.

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Well yes, you are right, aluminum is probably easier to weld on. However if you are unlucky enough to "blow up" your block, depending on the damage of course, wouldn't you hesitate putting your left over internals on a repaired block and that it doesn't happen again.(just my thought). You are also right about farming the weld repair job out, it is expensive, even for us well to do billionairs

As for the 55mm cam blocks, we do have a few left.None of them now have lifter bushings in them but I'm sure we could work something out on that. As they are now, it would be no additional cost.

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Aluminum, cast, CGI, World, Indy, Koleno, Mopar: which is the best way to go for a all out race motor?

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All out NA? CGI but you can't get regular ones, cast, then aluminum.

but i don't know anything.

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CGI is tuff stuff but I don't think anyone will manufacture it it takes to long to machine and to perfect it, you would need different tooling than grey iron, and by the looks of it no one has the money to invest.

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BigBear any word on a low deck casting?
Steve

Sorry for the hijack Lane!

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Don't worry bud, she's acomin!
So start saving now

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BigBear any word on a low deck casting?
Steve

Sorry for the hijack Lane!

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Don't worry bud, she's acomin!
So start saving now

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Why did you quit bushing the lifter bores? We use pushrod oiling so that means another $400.00
for a block.

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BigBear any word on a low deck casting?
Steve

Sorry for the hijack Lane!

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Don't worry bud, she's acomin!
So start saving now

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Alright my penny jar has a purpose! Please keep us up to date on this.
Thanks!
Steve [/quote

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I vote bushed. Won't hurt even if you don't need them, but if you do they are there.
As more people build more hp they need indivigual shaft rockers.(pushrod oiling)

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Help me understand by clarifying that. I thought for pushrod oiling you need oil to the lifter, so unbushed should work? And if you put solid bushings in (without an oil hole), then no oil would go to the lifter and you couldn't pushrod oil.

1) Unbushed
2) Solid bushing (no oil hole)
3) Bushings with a small oil hole.

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I vote bushed. Won't hurt even if you don't need them, but if you do they are there.
As more people build more hp they need indivigual shaft rockers.(pushrod oiling)

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Help me understand by clarifying that. I thought for pushrod oiling you need oil to the lifter, so unbushed should work? And if you put solid bushings in (without an oil hole), then no oil would go to the lifter and you couldn't pushrod oil.

1) Unbushed
2) Solid bushing (no oil hole)
3) Bushings with a small oil hole.

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I believe your right Jim. You would need to oil the lifters in order to get oil thru the push rod.

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I vote bushed. Won't hurt even if you don't need them, but if you do they are there.
As more people build more hp they need indivigual shaft rockers.(pushrod oiling)

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Help me understand by clarifying that. I thought for pushrod oiling you need oil to the lifter, so unbushed should work? And if you put solid bushings in (without an oil hole), then no oil would go to the lifter and you couldn't pushrod oil.

1) Unbushed
2) Solid bushing (no oil hole)
3) Bushings with a small oil hole.

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I believe your right Jim. You would need to oil the lifters in order to get oil thru the push rod.

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to much oil without bushing and small hole and lack of oil pressure.

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