7260 u joints, how weak?

just wondering if anyone has any failures to report from using the small joints and was it the cross that failed or the yoke? i have them in my bee and it's one more added expense for a limited budget, but i just got a 500" stroker kit and wondering what peoples thoughts are on a car that sees some drag strip with drag radials? thanks again moparts.

Weak, I snapped mine at 11.70's. 340, and a 904 with slicks. It was the cross that broke. Switched to the 7290, solids. And when it broke, it bent the drive shaft.

I used one in my Duster(3440lbs, 10.34 ET at 128.6)It was a one for a four wheel drive front end, solid and heat treated. I had broken the front yoke, 7290 size and spread open a new Spicer brand 7260 pinion yoke, I switch to a billet steel 7260 pinion yoke from Randys ring and pinion. Those parts held up, the 8 3/4 housing ended up bending and breaking the right side ladder bar brackets off of the rear end housing and twisting the housing beyond repair. I put a Dana 60 in the car with a 1330 pinion yoke and switch to adapter 1330 to the 7260 rear U joint to mate it to the driveshaft. I couldn't find a new rear driveshaft yoke in my size, 3.25 diameter so the adapter U joint was the only option other than replacing the entire driveshaft BTW, my motor is 518 C.I. pump gas low deck, the car runs on 315x60x15 M/T ET Street Radials

I'd say you're OK if you use the solid body ones, or the NEAPCO brand ones that have the zerk in one of the caps instead of in the cross.

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I'd say you're OK if you use the solid body ones, or the NEAPCO brand ones that have the zerk in one of the caps instead of in the cross.

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I ran the small U-joint for a few years when my car
was a ladder bar and never hurt the U-joint but when
I changed the chassis to a 4 -link I went with the
7690 joints.... if it has any zert fitting it will be
weaker and that holds true for any U-joint. Weight
is what kills any drive line component ... JMO