valve lash

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the car has about 1500 miles on it now maybe more, but not much. I havent run the valves since the motor was built 2 years ago. I noticed they were a little loud at the nationals. I am getting laid off and sunday will be my last day. Wife asked what was I doing my first day off. I told her spending some quality time in the garage.


So the card says .020 and .022, so basicly set them at .016 and call it done? It is not a monster cam. 518/502 235/235 at 50

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I would set them both at a tight .014 at or below 70F

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I dont think it makes a difference and I understand the aluminum shrinking and expanding with heat and the larger the head the more material to contract and expand, that being said this is a hemi so does the .014 on a cold head still sound right?

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Absolutely I have had several aluminum headed cast iron blocks hemi on the engine dyno, .014 should be real close to perfect unless you have aluminum roller rockers and then it may need less lash when cold Don't forget that no two motors are exactly alike on any of the parts, you should start with .006 to .008 less lash cold and then warm rhe motor up like you normally drive it and then recheck the lash when hot and vereify what it actually changes and adjust from there. I know, them dang Hemoroids are a real pain to get the plugs, out, remove the valve covers and so on It is a lot easier on the dyno than in the car, especially the drivers side

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Tighten them up .006 and recheck when hot and adjust again if needed

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I set mine at .015 cold

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On iron heads I used to set intake .002 loose and exhaust .004 loose (never went .028/.032 on anything .022/.024 is lots hot even on them old tech cams).
On my Indy heads (taller than eddies and grow more) I go .010 tight intake and .008 tight exhaust seem to be right hot?? on eddies I go .006 and .004 tight cold!!
a few thou one way or another does little as ling as there is .012 or more play hot!!

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