572ci Motor for 63 INDY MAXX Dart(UPDATED PICS)

Well my Indy Block came with a Plug kit..only thing that was on the block with the freeze plugs..my cousin has a Filter that he installed in the radiator hose on his Motor to help clean out the shavings..i will be doing the same with mine..

Billy its looking great! I am excited to hear about the first passes. Care to share the motor specs with the gang?

What are the details on the motor??

I had to notch the oil pan a lot when I had one of those FE on my car. Keep us posted on progress and keep the pics comming, looks nice so far

The screw in freeze plugs in a KB block were very helpful in flushing all the chips.. there were a lot!

well no big secret..but kind of odd rotating assembly combo...started as 543ci and ended up finding a 4.75 crankshaft so i bought it and sold the 4.5 crank and rods..bought the 4.75 and then found a set of 7.0 chevy rods to work everything out..anyways ended up perfect...001 in the hole @TDC..4.380 bore with 4.75 stroke (572)with 7.0 rods and deck height at 10.720.. i am going to try a Rollercam that we had in one of our B-1 motors a few years ago..700/715 with 1.5 but have 1.6 now.my 440-1 heads are 345cc CND"d flowing 389@ .800 382 @ .700 and i am going to squeeze the [Edited by Moparts - Keep it clean] out of the motor with compression..was going to be around 13CR or so but am now going to get nearer to 15.5-16 if all goes well...i have a single Indy intake as well as a Indy tunnel ram intake both have been ported.. i have a 727 already built,manuel valve body 8" 5500 convertor,dana 60 with 4.30 spool and Hoosier 31x14x15...Im sure i forgot a few things but who dont?? ************************************************************* THE FLOWHEET IS THE ATTACHEMENT

that should make some amazing bottom end torque with that throw. hmmm Mopar version of an Olds lol.

different means of getting to 572". sounds cools i went the normal 4.5x4.5

Hey BIG CUBE..when i mock up the Block/Trans i am thinking i will be pushing the motor back about 3-4 inches at the most..help some on weight trasnfer and oilpan at the same time..ony have to modify the firewall some and a new trans crossmember..couple days and all will be fine...but if there is no clearance issues whn i fit the block in then motor will stay in factory location based on factory trans crossmember..

High compresion long stroke 572 + the motor moved back with a short wheelbase = big wheel stand. I would ask Greg where his motor is at. Considering this is a ladder bar car you can not move the I/C forward. At the very least I would think you would locate the motor as low as posible. Remember engine torque plays into planting the tire along with the wieght transfer.
Doug

Yea, I know.. Greg has moved his Motor Back farther than i ever will.. we have discussed that in great detail since i started the build.. he is waiting to see how my car hooks with the motor in stock location or only 3" back from there.. he was telling me that after he changed to the Indy block and changed the weight of the car it didnt hook as well as the iron block did. i think he is considering moving the motor back forward...i dont want to move but for the dragster pan to clear i may have to, but only a few inches..not 6 or a foot... i am very aware of the weight i took off the nose of my car.. instead of a Mega block weighing 295lbs and stock suspension..i took 100lbs off with the K-member and race brakes, and another 140+ by using the Indy block instaead of the Mega block.. the rest of the car is all steel..complete glass..but should still come in under 3K lbs..but thanks for the input...

Billy, I must have said something that gave you the wrong info. I run a Mopar iron Megablock, and after the last chassis conversion to the full cage/17 inch setback it seemed to work well when running 9.50s, but more power put it over the edge resulting in too much weight transfer. After going over my info and looking at my data, the setback was already too much for the power I had at the 9.50 range. I think you have an ideal setup here, light block with the ability to move it back if you desire. It might actually be best to start with it in the reward most position, and adjust if needed?

yea, thanks greg..i knew it was something like that.. it wont affect me that much..i just mis spoke without going back to look at the emails we sent.. i was thinking you changed blocks..the weight tansfer and engine set-up was it.. 17"..mine wont be more than 3-4 "Tops...no matter what..thanks again. guys..Getting really excited about finishing up this project..

Is that a standard cam height block? I heard that with the 4.75 crank you had to watch cam/rod clearence. I am thinking of a similar combo.

it is a standard cam location Block..and yes, there is cam/rods clearence issues.. we mocked up the crank and one rod/piston, cam and timed it.. spun and checked where i needed to trim the shoulder of the rods..once i cleared one at .080 then i sent them off to all be done and rebalanced.. here are a few pics of the rods and how much i trimed..the machine shop rethreaded the rodbolts where i have shaved them down...

two stacked on top of each other

last one..these were before they went to the machine shop to be cleaned up...

Ok Guys..I gave you some wrong info the other day with the piston .001 in the hole.. after getting 2 pistons in the hole without rings to recheck everything i have .008 to the postive..and with "piston rock" it is close to .016-.017... so with what im being told about the Indy and other alum blocks there is some growth issues(.012-.015) as you do with alum rods..if this is the case then at opetating temp. i will be as close to "Zero Deck" as you can be... if this does not sound correct let me know..

Ok guys, i had to wait 2 weeks to get a chance to go work on my motor..we got the rings all file fit and on the pistons and insatlled the 8 slugs...will install the cam,timing chain and mock up heads next weekend ...here area few pics

picture #2 4 down/4 to go...

last 4 ..Yea....

My cousin Tony.snugging down the rod bolts before torquing

putting rings on the pistons..

Just a heads up you should double check rod clearance for each cylinder. On our 4.625 stroke mega block only 2 BME rids needed clearance. Can't remember off the top of my head which ones, but not all rods needed clearance and our clearance issues were with the cap and not the actual rod.

Sean

also check the pistons when they are at BDC. mine were hitting the block in the web

thanks...We mocked up the crank and rods/pistons several months ago and clearanced them with about .090 to spare and it was only the shoulder of the rod that i had an issue with.. then sent them all off to be matched and rebalanced..when i bought the crank i had .180 cut off the OD of the counter weights..this is why my cousin is helping me with this build..i can build a motor but he is very anal about these motors and checking and rechecking..drives me crazy but it right when he builds them...he has a 557 Indy maxx motor.572-13 in a 91 Lebaron tube car..

Cam installed, timing set,push-rod length checked and Valve To Piston clearanced...

second pic

3rd pic

4th pic

Motor looks good, and does the Lebaron and the 4 wheeler.