drive shaft for my charger ?

wanting to replace the driveshaft on my charger. 440/727/8 3/4 combo.
the 8 3/4 will stay, and currently has a 741 case with 3.91 gears and a 7260 joint size yoke.
the reason for a new shaft is the one front ear on the shaft has started to egg-out, with a just susceptible play noticeable.
my plan is a billet or forged front yolk, 1350 joint sizes on both ends of the shaft, and a conversion 1350/7290 joint at the rear, as i have a 7290 yolk for the 741 case. [or i may spring for a quality 7290 yolk]
what i am finding, however, is there are no solid 1350/7290 conversion joints out there. they all seem to be the greasable type.
i would prefer a solid joint.
i also want a high speed balance. [i think] denny's driveshafts offer a 10k rpm balance.
i have also looked at doc diff's stuff as well.
any thing i'm missing, or other suggestions ?
TIA !

guess we are lucky here in my little town, we have a high quality torque tube builder here , I did buy a HD yoke from doctor diff

there are a couple of shaft builders around here that are within 40 miles, but they are truck places, so their balance is only around 500-750rpm.
that's why i'm asking about high speed balance.
theirs might be ok for dirt burners, but not me.

If you are going to replace the rear yolk why not just get a 1350 yoke instead of doing the conversion u joint you are already changing out the yolk anyways.

If you can get a 1350 size yoke for it why not go that route?

https://www.actionmachineinc.com/ I got mine made here. Very nice work and reasonable prices. Get the 1350 pinion yoke. Spicer makes forged units you are not likely to ever hurt. They also have a solid 1350 u joint too.

you guys are right, i might as well cough up for a 1350 yoke as well.
the only reason i was thinking 7290, was i had one of those yolks on the shelf.
i only want to do this once. this car is heavy, but it will never have lots of hp or dead hook, so by going overboard on a shaft, i shouldn't have to worry about this part for the rest of my time here.
any suggestions on upgraded straps for the yoke ? what about ARP bolts for the yolk, or will common grade 8 bolts be ok ?

Seems like you're in alignment with the consensus here. Generally speaking I'm in agreement with doing it once and doing it right. You'd also want to consider what is the weakest link in the chain. In consideration of what you intent to build (with a reasonable margin of extra) what are the weak links?

Are the yokes different for 741 vs 742?
I switched over to 1350's years ago on everything.
Not sure I understand your need for a solid 1350, seems like a greaseable 1350 joint on the street has advantages.
Also seems grade 8 is quite adequate for the application.

The straps for the 7260 U joint and for the 7290 are not the same, They are different in the interior length and curve part that holds the U joint in the yoke, the pinion yoke is deeper than the center of the U joint cups so they, the cups, are not being held into the pinion yoke by the straps, the pinion yoke is doing that by being longer in the seat than the cup is to its center
Most of the 1350 pinion yokes I've seen and used had U bolts, not straps

Cab, you are right. it seems all of the 1350 yokes have U bolts.
now the question is, how to tell if my pinion is a 10 spline or a 29 spline ?

My rear yoke came from Mark Williams, the rear u joint uses this.

https://www.markwilliams.com/39112.html

that's interesting.
it's always "decisions, decisions, decisions............."

got a 1350 rear yoke coming from our good doctor diff.
next is measuring for the shaft, and ordering from action machine.