Engine builder in Northeast area?

Anyone know someone who rebuild a 440 in the new England area?

Give Carlquist Competition engines, Watertown CT a call.
Bill C has built several SBF and BMW engines for me. I know he has built some stout RB’s as well.

Where are you located and can you expand on REBUILD , what's your time frame .

Dwayne porter

Start by calling Porter Racing Heads and listening to what Dwayne has to say.

I'm in Massachusetts.
Right now I have a 78 motor 440. Want to build a daily driver with some hp.
Thinking of maybe a 440 source 512 stroker.

Boston area or Berkshires? There are shops I have used in the past north of Boston. I ship my heads to Dwayne Porter, he's in Burlington Vt., I won't let anyone else touch heads past a basic valve job on something I don't care about after a bad experience with a local shop I used for decades bleeped up a set with his COMPETITION valve job.

Sounds like you have a good sized budget if you are talking a 512" stroker ?

He is about 4 hours away from me. I will call him and talk to him. Something closer would work better. I'm just north of Boston.

505 is a good combo for a standard bore 440 engine. I'd use Molnar rather than 440 source but 440 Source will work. Just might need to spend a little more at the machine shop to get it right. Getting the rear main to seal can be a real problem with some offshore cranks. If you save a little money on the crank but end up with a leak then you won't be happy. What heads are you planning to use? Only ones I recommend for street engines are the Trick Flow 240 heads. Everything else on the market has issues that need to be fixed by the machine shop so that just shifts money from the purchase price to the total price. What intake? Flat hood or hood scoop? You can make plenty of torque with a flat hood. If you want bigger peak power numbers then you'll need a hood scoop for a tall intake. Hyd roller cam? If so, buy the correct heads with the correct springs so you don't have to pay twice.

Daily driver means small cam and modest compression. You might need to shop a bit to find the right piston to work with your stroke and cylinder head. It is super important to pick the correct piston. I'd use a flat top with a reverse dome dish and keep the compression under 10:1 for street driving. Camshaft should be smaller than what people tell you. Maybe something in the 220 range for smooth idle. 230 range will give you a little more power but idle starts to get lumpy and gas mileage drops. The Chevy 502 crate motor cam is 224/234 and it works great for street rods or daily drivers. Don't let anyone talk you into a big cam that you'll hate driving on a daily basis.

I live north of Boston and it only takes me 3 hrs to get there

Very sound advice given here from someone that has built a bunch of different combinations.

Listen to what he says about buying the cheapest and then spending more than buying a better quality part making it perform as claimed.

That sounds like great advice, thank you. I was thinking 440 source because I heard good things about them. I will give Molnar a look.

You can do your own research but once you find an engine builder you should follow his advice. Unless you really want to argue with your engine builder. Engine builders usually hate to have anyone walk into the shop and tell them that "I read on the internet that we should do x,y,z to this engine". That is probably the worst way to start off the relationship!

The engine in my car was built by Danbury Competition Engines in CT.
505 Victor heads close to 700hp
https://danburycomp.com/

Or http://www.larryspower.com/img/BigLogo.gif
A lot closer to you.
And yes, any Head work send to Dwayne - PRH

auto machine east Windsor ct dave miller specialize in mopars,
tell'em gary sent ya

1 of his 10/15 containers