Valley pan question

I'm in the process of installing my intake manifold (new Performer RPM on new Performer RPM heads on a 400 block) and have a question about the valley pan and gaskets. According to the instructions Edelbrock provided, I should use the 4 gaskets along with the valley pan. I tested the fit by first setting the manifold on the motor without the valley pan and checked for bolt hole alignment. They looked perfect. I also checked fit with a feeler gauge and I can get a .005 gauge to slide in there and when I go to a .006 it will not fit in the middle but slides in with some drag on the ends.With just the pan and the manifold sitting on it they still look good. I then put the valley pan and a gasket between it and the head and set the manifold back on. The holes in the head are now at the bottom of the holes in the manifold. I didn't try adding the gasket between the pan and manifold being the hole alignment was already off with just the gasket between the pan and heads. So, it looks like I will have to skip the gaskets but was just wondering if anyone else has had this problem when trying to use the gaskets.

Stock iron intakes fit without any gaskets BUT all aluminum intakes should use two thin "paper gaskets" per side - one on each side of the of the pan. Its easiest if you glue them on ahead of time. If necessary, enlarge the bolt holes on the intake but more important is the port alignment.

I have in the past cut my own paper gaskets from extra thin material because the ones provided were too thick, but that was with iron heads and an aluminum manifold.

The gaskets that come with the tubs are too thick. Thinner ones are available.

.015 thick gaskets. intake-Facing-gaskets-Set-of-4

Some of the Fel Pro 440 Hi Po valley pans (I'll try and find it and post that part number tomorrow on here) came with two thin gaskets, I can't remember if they were.030 or .015 now

I measured the ones I have and they are the .030's.

The intention of the supplementary fiber gaskets were specifically for aluminum intake manifolds ... having potential out-of-flatness. They originated with the factory 1969 aluminum 440-6 intakes. They can be used with any manifold... cast iron or aluminum... but always best to use with any aluminum intake as they do tend to flex and can have some corrosion, as well as out-of-flatness in due time.

I'm a former applications engineer from a major gasket mfgr.

Does anyone know if anyone else makes .015 gaskets other than 440 Source? I was hoping I could pick some up at a local auto parts store.

Have you looked into the Super performance gaskets. I believe they come in that size

Something that helped with my valley pan fitment was to use the manifold as a metal brake to get a better seal.

I bolted the valley pan up to one side of the manifold and then lightly struck the edge with a hammer. This made the bend sharper and more form fitting to both the heads and manifold. The pan fit better on the heads and did not fight the manifold when installing. It also helped eliminate some of the small intake leaks I was getting from the lifter galley.

Try contacting SCE gaskets, I think I had them make me some of the .015 440 style intake gaskets years ago, I have two pair left now
They use to make them in .015,.030, .060, .090 and .120 thick. The company has been bought and sold several times since them and moved their headquarters and manufacturing plant several times also

Superformance Products has the .015 gaskets. Page 8 in their catalog.
http://www.superformanceproducts.com/catalog.php

Another option

Hughes Engines

Intake Gaskets with Silicone Seal Bead

.016
.030
.060

I like to use at least one paper gasket per bank, even with iron heads, and I will have the intake cut so I don't have to butcher a perfectly good intake by filing the bolt holes.

When you were able to get a feeler blade in was this with a gasket or no gasket ... if a gasket which the paper or the valley pan and has the valley pan embossing already been crushed, It's a little confusing?

It's a new valley pan, not crushed. I checked with the feeler gauge with just the intake, no pan or gaskets. If using only one gasket, which side of the valley pan?

This makes absolutely NO sense !!! Once and intake is cut its no longer guaranteed to fit any other motor. On the other hand, elongating the bolt holes leaves the important dimensions intact.

I put them on the head side (if both gaskets won't fit properly) to help prevent oil being suck up into the intake manifold
I've reused the valley pans with gaskets on them many times with no problems

I was never able to find premade gaskets in the thickness I wanted… so making your own out of bulk gasket material is an option, it’s not too bad of a job

So, if I end up using one or both gaskets, is any sealant necessary on the gaskets? I'm not referring to adhesive to attach the gasket to the pan but rather around the ports as is often done when just using the pan.

I don't use sealant on the intake gaskets, they should seal without it I do make sure the intake manifold head surface is square to the heads before using it, if it has say .009 on the top surface between the intake manifold and the head and .012 on the bottom on one corner and different measurements on the other 3 corners without the valley pan I have the intake manifold machine so I can have say .0010 on the bottom and.0030 max on the top so the gaskets will be pinched in tight on the bottom surfaces to help seal the gasket to the heads and help keep oil from being suck into the heads from the lifter valley

No sealant necessary, but the paper gaskets are thick as hell. Even if you use the .015s available from other sources, .030 stack up isn’t insignificant. The first question for me is CAN you run them, and do you want to cut your intake .030-.060 if you cant?