Starter snout keeps breaking

In the last few years I have broken 3 Chinese mini starters
Has anyone used the CVR starter with the solid steel snout?
Or the similar MSD starters?
470 big block with 11to1 compression and 727 trans

Hate to say it but if you have broken three you have an alignment problem or something else you are missing.

Check the depth engagement of the drive gear

A friend broke three, found out the case was cracked around starter from the kick backs.

I check the allingnment previously. I've cleaned the threads used a stud for the top with nyloc nut and she is a snug fit.
I was running a low comp 440 previously for 10 years and the starter was fine. Same gear box too
I thought it was also my optima battery was too small however a larger battery still didn't fix the problem
When I turn the motor over without spark the starter spins nicely
My dizzy isn't locked either
So I'm assuming it's the starter not strong enough

I cut the nose off many of my powerglide setups. Have you ever tried that for the heck of it.

Don't give it gas wile its cranking.

what i have found, after breaking a snout, is the top mounting hole in the starter is made for a 1/2" fastener vs a stock (big block) 7/16" fastener. the starter index's on the snout and with the loose fitting top bolt hole and some starter kick back the snout cracks. since then, i put a sleeve in the top hole to accommodate the 7'16" bolt and that keeps the starter located. no more broken snouts. another option would be a stepped stud for the top hole; 1/2" to 7/16".

Check for interference between the starter and the block. The C shaped section of the block that the starter fits in when bolted up sometimes touches the starter and won't let it tighten down flush (and square) on the trans case. I've found this to be the cause of breaking starters multiple times. Check for witness marks on the starter and block. Simply grind the block for clearance.

this.

Use the recommended male stud in the top starter hole.

I cut them off, never had an issue