Concreted in Aluminum Indy blocks.

By chance anyone ever weigh one? (9.98 deck) ...Thanks.

I wouldn't waste my time or money filling any water block for drag racing or any other use
One of the main reasons I'm against using concrete based fillers is all concrete shrinks while curing, pulling away from the block in all ways, cylinders and all other surfaces.
Another thing about partial fills is the block heat being differently above the fill than below it., I dyno a 1971 340 NHRA stocker motor that Greg Luneack (SP?) built for the customer, that block was about a 3/4 fill. it was slightly below the water inlet holes on the front of the block from the water pump. They like to race it with 130 F water temps so we were doing that on the engine dyno, we used a laser heat gun to measure the tempts of the block and heads, the heads read 130 F after several pulls and the block read 180F below the water in the block down in were the fill was Not good on the ring seal, HUH
There are some composite fillers that may not shrink when curing, but which type and brand I have no idea of and I have never heard much about them either
How much power are you wanting to make?

https://www.competitionproducts.com...ler-25-lbs/productinfo/ROK/#.Y3X-zX3MLIU

I filled mine. So far so good. Currently not running coolant and not as heavy as old school stuff. Birdtracker

Pretty sure we used that Rockblock in one of mine once because of the quick cure time. Pulled it down a year or so later and it had shrank.

Why would anybody fill an aluminum block - seems counter productive and a waste of time - I see no gain to be had. If you want a solid block (no water jacket) order one

If you need to concrete an aftermarket aluminum block...then you are starting w/ the wrong block. As much as aluminum blocks move around, filling one w/ concrete is not something I'd be doing.

Agreed

Because an aluminum block will move around some. My INDY block is now half filled with Rock Block. It was mainly done to help stiffen the block up, as it was previously damaged. I was told an aluminum block will not pull vacuum like a iron block, but I was able to pull a steady 10lbs, at idle, and went over 20 before adjusting the relief valve.

133+25=158 does sound better that a stock block weight wise............Thank you

.... That's not good is this N/A or boosted?

I'm trying to determine if i going to pull the trigger on an Indy Maxx block on a boosted setup (short deck) Indy rated there blocks to 1500 HP i'm not a big fan of aluminum moving around, but i still will like to keep it streetable I'm in the research stages now reason for this post,......Thanks .... lots of interesting opinion here

Cab....i sent you a pm.

Rock Block is nothing more than a hydraulic grout (i.e. Rock-Ite) with powdered iron added - hence its expansion ratio is advertised as somewhat closer to iron - Its not really designed for aluminum blocks. There are grouts available for working around aluminum and concrete but I don't know anybody that has ever used them. Indy blocks move even new - the cylinder liners move up and down after time - and the block moves around from expansion. I would guess if you looked at the grout added after awhile I will bet its moved around also.

I have grouted factory blocks in the past and even experimented with Epoxy Grout (Devcon) put in under heat & pressure - that seemed to work the best but was a huge pain to do it and the cylinder walls definitely moved out of round more than rock-block - in the end you still have a stock block with stock main web design

....How is that block holding up for you? And at what power level?

If you want a filler why not pour molten aluminum in the block. Get the block around 6-7 hundred degrees then pour

Well it only has dyno time, and it made 870hp.

Is that desire actually compatible with a filled block?

for my use I wish I could of got a filled block. I found this water block and after 3 different pressure tests and having the sleeves installed, cam bearings, line bored, finished honed and then assembled found out it leaked coolant into the oil. So then after another 6 month go around of trying sealers and changing the oil and cleaning out valve covers, oil, pan and filter, I decided to fill it to the bottom of the water pump opening. No coolant, just a oil heater in the oil pan to warm it up before running. I made 3 back to back to back 1/4 mile passes and oil temps never got over 190 degrees. So the answer to why fill an aluminum block is how deep are you into it. Some day if I have to take a cylinder head off I will look and see how it lasted.Birdtracker

I think Goodson is the brand of the white liquid block sealer (CRS on the name now ) I used on a first generation cast iron top fuel block that motor use to make that leak water with filler in it
You had to seal the deck and water pump surfaces and then add the sealer and put 20 to 35 lbs. of air pressure on the side you are trying to seal and wait 20 minutes and then do the other side. The final step was it needed to be heated up for 20 minutes or so at or above a temp I can't remember now, Sorry, It was white color like milk, very thin and reusable and worked very well

Interesting here what fuel do you run and was this block ever see street time?

E-85 fuel and very little street useage. Its got way to much power. It will only get you in trouble. Birdtracker

Gotcha

I had an iron block 440 that was filled to the top of the freeze plugs that I drove on the street thousands of miles with no heat related problems. With all the aluminum blocks out there I can't see an issue with a 1/2 fill and running it . Birdtracker

Check out a morter product called Embeco 885 Darrin Morgan may have a video on it or a post with info but it has a lot of iron in it and little shrinkage and used on the space shuttle launch pad.

Birdtracker.....with the thermal expansion of aluminum block and concrete, have you notice any issues with the concrete separating inside or around the cylinders or for that question anyone have experience this?

Thanks I'll look into it